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I got the one that you showed me from Amazon
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OK great, lets go find out where you loose the ignition pulses that should eventually fire your plugs,
George |
No pulse at the white/blk
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OK so that means that the ICM is not generating the control signal to fire the coil. Now we need to find out if the PCM is sending the control pulses to the ICM. Everything gets connected back up and your going to need to pierce the white wire going into the ICM near the connector by either using a piercing probe or carefully peeling a section of the wire insulation back to expose the copper wire (you reseal it with liquid electrical tape later), Using your new LED test light, connect it between this exposed white wire and battery positive and see if you have pulses during cranking.
Note to anyone reading this: The safest and most revealing test of computer timing signals like this and the output from the crank sensor is an oscilloscope because it gives you great detail and does not load the circuit, so no risk of damage to internal computer circuitry or degrading the waveform being measured. They are also great for analyzing ignition waveforms. Since most diy mechanics don't have a scope, the "scope on a rope" can be useful. Sometimes an old school incandescent test light is actually better like testing the O2 sensor heater circuit because it loads the circuit while testing which can reveal marginal wiring faults better but any time your are testing anything involving computer circuits (PCM/ECM/BCM/etc) and your not an electrical expert, don't use this tool. The LED test light draws minimal current and so it barely loads the circuit. This means that you eliminate the risk of blowing out an internal module component like a ground side switching transistor and bricking the module. George |
Have not worked on it for awhile, I had to put my wife in the hospital but she is back home and doing well. I went back checking the S10 but it looks like I will have to get a new starter. The old one has given up. I will check what you said as soon as I can
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Ok, the coil and icm wires plugged in I pierced the white wire and was putting clip on the battery positive and the moment I touched the positive sparks came out of the coil to the closest metal. Before I did that I put the test light on the negative and touched the white wire to see if it was hot, it was not.
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What did you connect between the ICM white wire and the battery positive? Your LED test light or a straight wire? If it was your test light your sure its an LED test light and not a std issue incandescent test lamp?
George |
I used the light you told me to get from Amazon
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So what likely happened here is that you supplied 5v through the test light to the ICM control input and so it generated one coil control pulse. The distr was then in between cylinder positions or there is a problem with the coil wire to the distr or the distr. Probably just the distr position. The spark had nowhere to go so it found a place. That said, inspect the coil for cracks and test the coil wire resistance.
So now what? there are three ways to test the signal into the ICM:
George |
Okay I got the meter to ground and checked the white wire with ignition on and got
.35...cranking it was. .75. Once it went to 1.20. No spark at the coil wire. At the pcm is the white wire on the red or white plug in? Ok I may have it, after checking the plugins I was able to push several wires that were almost pulled out, so I am now getting a 4v reading on the white wire and the coil wire is firing. But the starter is now only turning a few seconds at a time. I put in a starter from my old drag car so off to get a new one. Hopefully this solved the problem. I will let you know how it goes! |
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