rear hatch fuse and or relay labeling
scanner has no error coeds computer communication normal
tried different FB nothing
either weird engine fuse/rely problem or RF Antenna problem
guess i have to take to dealer as i am out of test equipment for the level
tried different FB nothing
either weird engine fuse/rely problem or RF Antenna problem
guess i have to take to dealer as i am out of test equipment for the level
Reviewing your posts, you say the rear actuator does nothing and it's a new one? Then you must not be getting power there. Either the dash button, the keyless entry module, or the endgate button (when the driver side door is open) should power that actuator as long as the truck knows it is stopped (a/t park, m/t parking brake on). If you have the endgate opened up, can you measure 12 volts at the actuator when the endgate button is pushed? Otherwise if you supply 12 volts there does the actuator work? You may have to do these tests with and without the actuator connected to verify that the actuator is functioning properly. If it is then you have to locate the fuse under the hood. There must be someone here with help on that.
is the "lift gate relay" and the tailgate actuator" the same thing?
i have been following the schematic
i can't ge the key less entry to work either, won't program, have two fobs
all fuses are good but not sure about the little box relays, will get some new ones today
will double check for 12volts at the actuator, thanks for the tip
i have been following the schematic
i can't ge the key less entry to work either, won't program, have two fobs
all fuses are good but not sure about the little box relays, will get some new ones today
will double check for 12volts at the actuator, thanks for the tip
8.8 volts when i push the tailgate button.
i am trying to sell this so i have a used battery in it, it starts fine and everything else works, all the fuses are good
i suspect a faulty something in the engine fuse box?
i am a computer technician and mechanics is just a hobby that drives me to drink but a actually certified mechanic buddy is coming by after work for a look
will keep posted as the finally result is good for future members problems as so many threads end in the middle
i am trying to sell this so i have a used battery in it, it starts fine and everything else works, all the fuses are good
i suspect a faulty something in the engine fuse box?
i am a computer technician and mechanics is just a hobby that drives me to drink but a actually certified mechanic buddy is coming by after work for a look
will keep posted as the finally result is good for future members problems as so many threads end in the middle
Well, 9 volts is better than nothing but maybe not enough to energize the solenoid. I'm not an electrician either, but puzzles like these are better than crosswords.
So I take it the 9 volts did not activate the solenoid which moves the lever that trips the lever that pulls the cable that opens the latch that releases the glass that Jack built?
Now if you supplied 12 volts from a fully charged battery or charger, would the solenoid activate? That is the key issue, whether the solenoid is bad or not getting sufficient juice to move the lever.
So I take it the 9 volts did not activate the solenoid which moves the lever that trips the lever that pulls the cable that opens the latch that releases the glass that Jack built?
Now if you supplied 12 volts from a fully charged battery or charger, would the solenoid activate? That is the key issue, whether the solenoid is bad or not getting sufficient juice to move the lever.
actuator works on the bench, blazer battery is fully charged.
rear door power locks don't work, manual says thee is a child lock out switch but i can't find it so mine might not have it as an option,
the drivers normal/lock button doesn't seem to do anything either which i though prevents you from locking the doors when the key is in the ignition
i wonder if the power lock harness is jumped from door to door, time to study the schematic again
rear door power locks don't work, manual says thee is a child lock out switch but i can't find it so mine might not have it as an option,
the drivers normal/lock button doesn't seem to do anything either which i though prevents you from locking the doors when the key is in the ignition
i wonder if the power lock harness is jumped from door to door, time to study the schematic again
Yes, a short in the wiring could cause either problem. Might be a good idea to solve the door lock problem which might be related. The endgate button is on the circuit with the driver side door lock and won't work if the door is locked. You never did get the keyless entry to work either, right?
no luck on key less entry, the blazer was parked for a almost a year which never seems to be good for vehicles
today i am going to change some engine fuse box relays as one post said the horn one fixed weird electrical problems
today i am going to change some engine fuse box relays as one post said the horn one fixed weird electrical problems
just update for future user searches
took it to my local aftermarket dealer and he programed the keys in 5 minutes, no charge but would not share what he did which was fine with me.
i have bought stereos from him over the years so great local service.
Now i am replacing my warped front rotors and then back to the rear glass problem which i hope is just a engine compartment relay fault as that is where the schematic leads me too
will up date when i have more info
P.S. call dealer and they said aftermarket remote starters have a history of causing problem and they don't recommend them, just a FYI
took it to my local aftermarket dealer and he programed the keys in 5 minutes, no charge but would not share what he did which was fine with me.
i have bought stereos from him over the years so great local service.
Now i am replacing my warped front rotors and then back to the rear glass problem which i hope is just a engine compartment relay fault as that is where the schematic leads me too
will up date when i have more info
P.S. call dealer and they said aftermarket remote starters have a history of causing problem and they don't recommend them, just a FYI
can't diagnose the problem i get 10volts when i push the button on the tailgate.
but nothing happens, bench tested my new actuator and i works on 12volts, the fuse is good and i replaced it anyways.
all other electrical components work, is there a relay in the engine compartment fuse box that can be week, i switched a few around like the horn ac
the schematic doesn't lead me any where
the black box that connects to the rear wiper so that it won't operate when the glass is open could be faulty? no sue how to test it.
but nothing happens, bench tested my new actuator and i works on 12volts, the fuse is good and i replaced it anyways.
all other electrical components work, is there a relay in the engine compartment fuse box that can be week, i switched a few around like the horn ac
the schematic doesn't lead me any where
the black box that connects to the rear wiper so that it won't operate when the glass is open could be faulty? no sue how to test it.



