Small wire fire on firewall
fusible link is 16G as per packaging
no amp clamp meter.
Its getting hot with only the alternator connected to the circuit? Right now, both are connected to the fusible link. That was the way I found it. And that is the way it is in all the wiring diagrams. Whether that is the OEM fusible link, I don’t know.
How long is the fusible link? If I had to guess, I would say 6-7 inches. I just lined it up with the old one and cut it the same length.
Whats that voltage drop on either side of the link piercing the permanent circuit wire?
I will check tomorrow. I assume it is not negligible because of the warmth/heat. Do you think that is where the 0.47V to 0.64V that I got above are from?
George
How long is the fusible link? If I had to guess, I would say 6-7 inches. I just lined it up with the old one and cut it the same length.
Whats that voltage drop on either side of the link piercing the permanent circuit wire?
I will check tomorrow. I assume it is not negligible because of the warmth/heat. Do you think that is where the 0.47V to 0.64V that I got above are from?
George
Did some digging on your wiring gauges but the pickins' are slim and as usual much of the internet chatter is talking from its ****. It looks like the standard setup for your truck was probably a 10 gauge alternator charging wire with a 14 gauge fusible link if the alternator is still the original 63 amp model and everything is stock. Many forums talk about an upgrade to a CS130 model which has considerably higher output and needs a much heavier wire. That fusible link that you removed is marked 1.0 sq mm which is a 16 gauge fusible link. The question is was that original? A 10 gauge wire is already undersized based on some average amperage windage calculations. You can measure the diameter of the wire conductors with some insulation pulled back if you have a dial caliper. 10 gauge should be .102". I also saw a reference for a gm spec of the day allowing up to 0.5V drop from the alternator to the battery which seems high to me. Bottom line is not sure what to make of all this but a 12 gauge charging wire seems small.
George
George
Did some digging on your wiring gauges but the pickins' are slim and as usual much of the internet chatter is talking from its ****. It looks like the standard setup for your truck was probably a 10 gauge alternator charging wire with a 14 gauge fusible link if the alternator is still the original 63 amp model and everything is stock. Many forums talk about an upgrade to a CS130 model which has considerably higher output and needs a much heavier wire. That fusible link that you removed is marked 1.0 sq mm which is a 16 gauge fusible link. The question is was that original? A 10 gauge wire is already undersized based on some average amperage windage calculations. You can measure the diameter of the wire conductors with some insulation pulled back if you have a dial caliper. 10 gauge should be .102". I also saw a reference for a gm spec of the day allowing up to 0.5V drop from the alternator to the battery which seems high to me. Bottom line is not sure what to make of all this but a 12 gauge charging wire seems small.
George
George
the alternator should have identifying information on it to be able to look up charging amps.
I may just run in for 20 minutes to see if the fusible link burns up. And remember, it started out 0.47V drop (pos-pos), but once the wire was hot, it was 0.64V.
if the alternator is oversized, then D itself should be getting warm, correct?
I missed a wiring diagram with reference to wire gauge on D, where do we see that?
Thats why we need to measure the voltage drop across that temp repair to see how much of the 0.5v is there.
Are both red wires on the alternator the same gauge? D is the wire on the output post, right?
What about the gauges on the other wires on that junction block?
Before this is all over I may recommend a minor wiring change. The three different diagrams have different approaches and what you have makes the least amount of sense.
Your welcome.
George
Thats why we need to measure the voltage drop across that temp repair to see how much of the 0.5v is there.
Are both red wires on the alternator the same gauge? D is the wire on the output post, right?
What about the gauges on the other wires on that junction block?
Before this is all over I may recommend a minor wiring change. The three different diagrams have different approaches and what you have makes the least amount of sense.
Your welcome.
George
Last edited by GeorgeLG; Sep 12, 2022 at 09:15 AM.
George



