Hello everyone,


I am working on a 1994 Full size Blazer. What I am in the process of doing is removing the factory 350 and replacing it with a 383 stroker. This is my first time doing a project of this magnitude and humbly have to admit it is a lot more then I had intended to do. However now I am to the point I am removing the factory TBI system wiring. So I am here looking for any advise tips, links what ever that could help me accomplish this task. My searches on the internet haven't been very fruitful, so I am hoping some of you can help me. Thank you all for your input on this project, it is greatly appreciated.


Side note: some pictures of where I am currently at for those interested.

 

Are you going to keep the factory distributor? If you are you will need to keep the TPS and MAP sensors. If you are not and going with a vacuum advance distributor then you will really not need any wiring. The distributor sends the RPM signal for the tach so you will lose that. Speedometer comes from the transmission so you would need to leave the ECM in for that. I think someone sells something that allows you to bypass the ECM for speed but I don't know for sure. If you have an electric fan the same applies.
Long story short you can just pull the TBI and distributor but it will throw codes though.

You could always keep the TBI, throw in 454 injectors and have it tuned at a dyno.

EDIT:
I'm running a 327 that should make around 350 at the wheels with a good tune. That's with a slightly modified TBI. I have 350 injectors in it now but they are very close to their limits half way through the RPM range.

I have a set of N.I.B. 454 injectors hiding somewhere in my garage but I have not been able to find them for the last few years. I've done limited tuning but it pulls hard until it gets to 4000 where my tuning has stopped and it starts running out of fuel.

I looked a little closer at the pictures. It looks like you are going to be using the in-tank pump, so you will need a pressure regulator capable of going down to the 4-7psi for a carb. Second, the fuel pump runs off the ECM which gets its signal from the distributor. Without that the pump will not run any longer than the 3 second prime. Just an additional heads up in case that was getting removed. The picture was a bit blurry but that carb looks pretty fancy so without any specs it might be a carb capable of sending the proper signal(s) to an EFI ECM.

Seriously... Ford Blue paint?

 

Lol no that is not Ford Blue, its an anodized blue paint, it was the closest color I could find to the Illusion smurf blue that I am powder coating various other parts.


There was a lot of questions in there and I guess I should have added some more information about what I am doing. I am using a blue print 383 cid (426hp & 468ft/p torque were the numbers) crate motor, I am switching the distributer to a aftermarket MSD ignition. The fuel is being regulated just as you mentioned and I was aware I had to rewire it. I am using a demon polymer carb on a Wieland intake. I am going to an electric fan set up. Ceramic coated headers and flow master round out the exhaust. The transmission has been rebuilt to handle the power and I have a TCI EZ-tune trans controller to handle that. The transfer case was gone through and Detroit lockers in the axles. I think that's about it, lol. In the next phase I plan on addressing the altitude of the truck.


I guess the main issue I am concerned about is how the braking system is wired into the harness. If its effected by the ECU? or how to even address that. Is there anything else I need to do I maybe missing?


Thanks for the help!


Here's a couple pic's of some of the powder coated parts, the valve covers that appear to be black are in fact chrome. They have been coated with a glow bee powder coat that makes them glow, its pretty cool. I did all the powder coated parts in that clear coat

 

I don't think the brakes go into the ECM unless it has ABS. Sounds like you have all the bases covered besides the fuel pump. You can probably just remove everything you want to. Just be sure to trace the wires back a bit so you don't take out something like headlights or wiper motor wiring.