yet anther one
 

o.k i have been reading here for a little bit and i have not seen this this on here yet and i am going to see if any one has tried this and if they did how did it work.

so here is a little bit of what i am doing i am getting a 99 blazer 4x4 for 400 it is in good shape only bad thing but not bad thing is that the heater core is out and that's for now what i can see. when i get some new in my drive way i can never leave it a lone and i would like to try something different so this is what i am going to try i want to lower this truck about 3" just cause i would like the stock rims and tires to fill the wheel wells up and that's it. yes i know its 4x4 and yes i know i should lift it but every other truck that is sitting in my drive way is lifted with the smallest tire size are 33's. this truck is only for me to drive to work and home and some time to the lake with the boat be hind it so here it what i am going to try let me know what you think and if you have tried it let me know how it worked


The Torsion Bar Trick has become pretty notorious among the lowered blazer community. Apparently I didn't write the instructions thorough enough for a lot of people. Here is the more detailed revision:

Before you start (at least a day in advance) you should soak both ends of the torsion bars with a good lube like Lithium or WD-40. Driving around on bumpy roads will help work the lube into the mating spaces.
1. Jack up the front end and place jack stands securely under the frame so it is well supported. The front tires must be up off the ground enough for a jack to get under the tires or control arms for a later adjustment.
2. Take off the front bump stops. They must be removed or the truck will sit on them. (it should be a 9/16 nut).
3. At the cross member (where the rear of the torsion bars stop) unscrew the 2 adjuster bolts. Remove these completely.
4. Use a two jaw puller (can be rented at Auto Zone for about $40.00 deposit) to lift the torsion bar adjuster arm (or key) up off its support block, so you can remove the blocks out of the rear hole in the cross member. Then slowly let the puller back down to release the pressure.
5. Use a hammer and drift tap to pound the torsion bar towards the front of the vehicle. If you cannot get them to tap out you can remove the 4 bolts holding the whole cross member in place and tap the cross member toward the REAR with a sledge hammer, until both adjuster arms fall out. For some of you the exhaust might be in the way, You can use a jack to hold the pipe up out of the way.
6. You should be able to slide the bars forward a few inches to 'disengage' them from the control arm hole. Use a jack to lift the wheel/control arms up until until the tire just about tucks into the wheel well.
7. Place the key back onto the torsion bar exactly the way it came off (you may have to reinstall the crossmember first) or just pull the torsion bar back into the key hole. Make sure you reinstall the adjuster arm keys UPSIDE-DOWN. Make sure the shape of the key holes match up with the torsion bar shape before you tap them back in place.
8. If done correctly the support blocks should go back in with the keys sitting just above them.
9. Then put the torsion bar bolts back into the blocks and tighten them all the way up. MAKE SURE YOU ANGLE THE BLOCKS AND TORSION BAR BOLTS DIRECTLY TOWARDS THE KEYS, IF NOT THE BLOCKS WILL SLIP.

Once both sides are done exactly like this, you can let the front end down and see how you did. You should be able to bounce the front end down a few inches before it bottoms out.
You can now screw/unscrew the adjuster bolts for final leveling out or lowing even more. You should be able to adjust from a 5.5" to a 6.5" drop.
The ride quality suffers is a bit bouncy due to lack of suspension travel left. Also the stock shocks are too compressed to function at all. Drop shocks will help and pancake bump stops will soften bottoming out.
I have done my best to explain this whole procedure, but if you still have trouble, you can post questions here in the suspension forum.