Another quick SAS question
#1
05-17-2017, 09:05 PM
Another quick SAS question
Hey all,
I'm over looking for a cast iron front ifs out of a 5 speed, been looking for over a year an can't find one. I already put a truetrac in the rear of the 7.625 and was wondering if I got a passenger drop Dana 30 front if everything would match up?
main reason is to have lockers or lsd up front, with 32 or 33" tires
if I can't I'll probably end up giving the blazer to my mom and just get a 4runner
I'm over looking for a cast iron front ifs out of a 5 speed, been looking for over a year an can't find one. I already put a truetrac in the rear of the 7.625 and was wondering if I got a passenger drop Dana 30 front if everything would match up?
main reason is to have lockers or lsd up front, with 32 or 33" tires
if I can't I'll probably end up giving the blazer to my mom and just get a 4runner
#3
05-18-2017, 08:02 PM
Keep your search narrowed to a driver's side drop...
or install a 2wd trans and a divorce transfercase, that would be neat too, then you could use whatever front axle you wanted to
or install a 2wd trans and a divorce transfercase, that would be neat too, then you could use whatever front axle you wanted to
#4
05-19-2017, 01:33 PM
if you have the 4l60 trans you can slap a np208 transfercase out of a k5 blazer, it bolts right up but you lose your vehicle speed sensor so no speedo and no shifting. theres probably some way of finding a np241 with the VSS built it but never cared to mess with it as this truck doesnt see past 1st gear anyways
stock engine and transmission the rest is all k5 blazer parts
stock engine and transmission the rest is all k5 blazer parts
#5
05-19-2017, 10:43 PM
Way to much work for a passenger drop Dana 30.
Drivers drop Dana 30 (Jeep XJ or YJ for High Pinion) would be your best bet if you want to keep that rear axle (there's ways of using the 4wd S10/Blazer Hubs in the dana 30s).
If I wanted to keep my rear 7.6 here's what I'd do.
Cheapest and eastiest option for the rear axle is 1" adapter/spacers. Thats about the easiest it's gonna get. You'll still need some welding done (perches on the axle) but everything else is literally bolt on.
Drivers drop Dana 30 (Jeep XJ or YJ for High Pinion) would be your best bet if you want to keep that rear axle (there's ways of using the 4wd S10/Blazer Hubs in the dana 30s).
If I wanted to keep my rear 7.6 here's what I'd do.
High Pinion Dana 30 (XJ or YJ)
ORD Hanger kit (from 4wdfactory.com)
Spring Over Axle Wagoneer Springs (You can do Spring Under but, I personally don't like the way it looks)
2wd Astro Box (puts the pitman arm forward for steering clearance)
ORD Hanger kit (from 4wdfactory.com)
Spring Over Axle Wagoneer Springs (You can do Spring Under but, I personally don't like the way it looks)
2wd Astro Box (puts the pitman arm forward for steering clearance)
Last edited by Private_Ops; 05-19-2017 at 10:50 PM.
#6
05-20-2017, 08:13 AM
Way to much work for a passenger drop Dana 30.
Drivers drop Dana 30 (Jeep XJ or YJ for High Pinion) would be your best bet if you want to keep that rear axle (there's ways of using the 4wd S10/Blazer Hubs in the dana 30s).
If I wanted to keep my rear 7.6 here's what I'd do.
Cheapest and eastiest option for the rear axle is 1" adapter/spacers. Thats about the easiest it's gonna get. You'll still need some welding done (perches on the axle) but everything else is literally bolt on.
Drivers drop Dana 30 (Jeep XJ or YJ for High Pinion) would be your best bet if you want to keep that rear axle (there's ways of using the 4wd S10/Blazer Hubs in the dana 30s).
If I wanted to keep my rear 7.6 here's what I'd do.
Cheapest and eastiest option for the rear axle is 1" adapter/spacers. Thats about the easiest it's gonna get. You'll still need some welding done (perches on the axle) but everything else is literally bolt on.
#7
05-20-2017, 12:01 PM
Yes, all 1st and 2ng gen Blazers/S10s (1982 all the way to 2005) are drivers drop. Should have either NP207 (very very early models), NP231, NP233, or NP236 (Autotrac) transfer case.
NP207 - I honestly don't know much about this, it was only used for a few early years in the 1980s
NP231 - Manually shifted - Used in 1st gens and 2ng gens (94-97 only)
NP233 - Electronically Shifted "3 button" - Used in 1st and all second gen years (This is basically an NP231 with an electric motor on it, pretty much all parts interchangeable)
NP236 - Electronically Shifted "4 button" - Used in 2nd gens, has an "AWD" like mode, uses special GM (Dealer) fluid only. Almost always swapped out to an NP231 for a solid axle swap
NP231 - Manually shifted - Used in 1st gens and 2ng gens (94-97 only)
NP233 - Electronically Shifted "3 button" - Used in 1st and all second gen years (This is basically an NP231 with an electric motor on it, pretty much all parts interchangeable)
NP236 - Electronically Shifted "4 button" - Used in 2nd gens, has an "AWD" like mode, uses special GM (Dealer) fluid only. Almost always swapped out to an NP231 for a solid axle swap
#8
05-20-2017, 08:02 PM
I'd be all for 8.8 rear with a 44 up front but I just got the 7.625 rebuild with a true trac
#9
05-20-2017, 11:46 PM
I got a 97, a front sas would be awesome. I think a Dana 30 would be good for what I'm planning just 33" and a lsd or locker. I hear chromemoly axles make the Dana 30s pretty stout for up to 35"
I'd be all for 8.8 rear with a 44 up front but I just got the 7.625 rebuild with a true trac
I'd be all for 8.8 rear with a 44 up front but I just got the 7.625 rebuild with a true trac
Chromoly shafts aren't bad. They do help with 35s. 33s are pretty good for a Dana 30.
An 8.8 out of a Ford explorer is a popular swap for the Jeep guys (bout same width, same bolt pattern, disc brakes, much stronger than a 7.6 (or Dana 35 in the Jeeps)).
Like I said, easiest for the rear is just a set of 1" adapter/spacers (5x4.75 to 5x4.5).
#10
05-29-2017, 11:13 AM
Chromoly shafts aren't bad. They do help with 35s. 33s are pretty good for a Dana 30.
An 8.8 out of a Ford explorer is a popular swap for the Jeep guys (bout same width, same bolt pattern, disc brakes, much stronger than a 7.6 (or Dana 35 in the Jeeps)).
Like I said, easiest for the rear is just a set of 1" adapter/spacers (5x4.75 to 5x4.5).
An 8.8 out of a Ford explorer is a popular swap for the Jeep guys (bout same width, same bolt pattern, disc brakes, much stronger than a 7.6 (or Dana 35 in the Jeeps)).
Like I said, easiest for the rear is just a set of 1" adapter/spacers (5x4.75 to 5x4.5).
I'm gonna have to regear while I'm at it, it's gonna be a dd and I do most in town driving and when I'm on the freeway I don't mind going 55.. so with that being said what would be the best ratio 3.73 or 4.10 running 33"s? I hear mixed reactions with 4.10s
