My paint scheme is rare ? Never had this happen.. now it has. Door opens like there is nothing wrong with it, however, now there is a dent .

How to get this to look like nothing ever happened? Body shop price? Kind of shop? How to not get fleeced here?

I can rubbing compound out the "scuffs" but that dent.. Its repairable, I think?? Umm... yeah.





Here is the better side.

 

You would probably be bucks ahead to get a used door and have it painted to match.

 

Did you see if you could take the door panels off and push it out from the inside? When I swapped my drivers door for one from a scrap yard, it had almost the same damage, not as bad tho. I just said screw it a layered the bondo on to fill them in. That was about 2 years ago and still holding like it's part of the door. I plan on replacing it one day, tho...

Paint matching will be the harder part as it's hard to get the same shine with rattle cans, but if you got time and space, it's all doable work, and probably save you a ton compared to body shop, I just avoid them myself lol...

 

Most importantly, does the guy who hit you have insurance?

 

Good catch on that. Looks like we both had insurance. I fully believe they backed off a little, when they realized that they were "at fault" (I am making a left turn, not turning wide, either, on a green light and the next thing I know, I feel an impact on the passenger front door. Ummm.. okay, that is THEM at fault.)


Of course, nobody wants to actually USE their insurance, and without giving whatever Internet stalkers (they exist, have not heard from them in years but sometimes they see stuff like this and try things, calling police departments etc, if you think I'm paranoid I can understand that, but. Moving on) some ammunition, I believe a deal of sorts was reached where the kid (yes a young 21 or younger kid hit me. Seems he did have insurance) is going to get an estimate, and , since it is a newer car or something, I'll probably pay for it to keep the insurance from going up. Insurance. Everyone is afraid to use it, so why even have it, but, hey. It's the law...


Police report was taken, I don't think any tickets are going to be issued but sometimes weird people from all parts of the world like to now instantly go trying to make charges, so "Hi haters." The less they know.. the better. This why I like when nobody knows where I actually live..


Anyways. Yeah, just had to vent how I feel. Who knows, maybe a ticket is coming, but I don't see how. Plus, the jails are overloaded. Plus, they are letting people OUT of jail. Plus, even Court is closed . So, I don't think one is coming, for him.... Okay, sure, collision, get a report, sure. But.


Thinking I'd like to find a shop that could in fact pop the interior off the door and do some skillful tapping and banging to straighten it out. It does look on the larger side. But seems well within what can be popped out.. or am I pipe dreaming ?


Besides, nobody puts full collision coverage on a 1996..



Are you asking if his insurance is going to pay for the damage to my door?


How much do you think some kind of work on the door there (agreeing with Don L that once you go repainting doors, it just doesn't look right) would run?


One more pic.


If I knew how to take interior trim off a door WITHOUT BREAKING THE CLIPS (I am not good at body things) I would...

 

In California, that repair would probably be about $3000. Again, I don't know where you live, or what the laws are there, but here, the at-fault party is responsible for the repairs. It would be up to his insurance (or him) to pay for your damages, regardless of your insurance coverage, up to the actual value of your vehicle. If repairs exceed the value of the vehicle, the insurance company will "total" it, take ownership of it, and pay you the cash value. Usually, you'll have the option to buy it back from the insurance company for "salvage value" which is normally a few hundred bucks or so.

So, depending on your laws, you may be entitled to have it repaired at no cost to you. BTW, paint matching technology is pretty good nowadays. You'd be surprised how close they can get. Also, I've done the pay out of pocket thing to avoid increases in my insurance rates. It wasn't worth it in the long run. It would have been cheaper just to let insurance pay for it and pay the higher rates for a few years.

 

On a whim, I am looking at car-part.com to replace my doors . Based on my conversation with the guy that has "the connection" to shops/mechanics (obviously the "friends" rate,) sounds like all they were going to do is find two new doors anyway. Might even get one.. probably two.

So, I see the color "Green/Grey" listed and I am HOPING that is the same one..

WILL the passenger front from a 2-door fit on my 4!?




Ideally, I want it to look like the other side .

Is "new doors same paint" the best way to go?



Also.. is it "Green" or "Teal?" About to find the paint code.



Or.. Seriously, are there other ways of getting this out?

I don't know if you would call this a "hard hit" or what but . Never expected that to happen, and I want this dent. Out...

 

The doors themselves can be swapped, the door trims and interiors and wiring is different for early and late 2nd gens

 

Okay, so, a new way to look at this. If I buy two junkyard doors... I have the two-tone paint scheme, and I really like my color and shade of green (maybe even teal.) My paint code must be hidden on my vehicle somehow.

If the two doors (any color? This a part of my question) go to a paint place, to "change the color" to mine.. How does that work? And DOES it matter the original color of the door??

Getting it to really look good is important to me here...

 

If you are really into "look good" it is a nightmare to do the paint.

1st two tone means just that, painting it two times. Apply one color, dry, apply second. In between swap all the masking to the other side.

2nd match the color. While the measuring and mixing will give good results in a two-tone you are never "exactly" on the OEM paint. That means the paint-shop needs to spray over the doors left and right and fade into the adjacent panel to make the color match. This means painting up to the roof's kink and the rear pillar and part of the window frame, still along the whole roof line.

3rd It's a metallic paint which means after the color they apply the metallic clearcoat and depending on the product and the shop an additional clearcoat to complete.

Depending on how good you really want the paint, they can mask over the weather-stripping, around the door handles, and such, which will leave some ridges along the masking tape (visible upon close inspection) or you remove all the weather strips and they can paint to the sheet-metal (inner) edge of the door. The same holds true for the doors visible side (where it fits into the door-jamb). Then if it should be perfect you have to remove the door-panels in order to paint all the visible parts all around the door.
The silver lower paint is the same issue. They will probably just paint forward to the wheel well and to the rear into the side panel after the wheel well to match it perfectly.

You would fit the doors from the junk-yard with the whole of weather-strips and adjust the doors. Then remove everything like door ***** and all afore mentioned. Then do all the rust repairs that these doors most likely will need. Finally you or the paint shop or body shop will fix all dents which may be in the doors. Use an appropriate putty (ask the paint-shop) to fix all the rust repairs, cracked paint and such. Then sand all the repairs. Finally in preparation for the paint, they will probably sand with a 320 to 400 grit, when applying a primer. If the doors are in good condition (paint) they will sand the repair spots with about 400 grit and then sand both doors and at least 1 or 2 feet front and aft of the doors with a 600 to 800 grit in preparation for the paint. Then mask off the whole car. Mind you, that with the Blazers fixed doors normally on such repairs where you paint with the door in the truck you cannot paint the front width of the door where the hinges sit and the cable passthrougs. An exception would be if it is painted with the doors out of the truck (this will depend on the paint shop and how much you care about "perfect").

Painting the doors in two steps would be the perfect approach. Get them from the junkyard, put them into the Blazer and mark them (for removal and mounting after the paint) as indicated before. Then remove the doors from the Blazer again and remove everything from the doors, weatherstrips, door handles etc. Do all the rust and repairs needed. Then have the shop paint the whole of the inside of the door (around the door-panel is just fine) and all around the door part which enters the door jamb with the closest matching color, out to just the edge of the outer panel.

I would expect the shop to do a sample and match that as close as possible. It is not so important on the inside of the doors (as you have no adjacent OEM color to compare to). Then put the pre-painted doors back into the Blazer on to the markings and the shop will go about the exterior. This is why it is so expensive to repair painted body parts correctly. Or any body repair with paint whatsoever. Lot's of work.

This is my 94 after replacing the drivers door. Similar damage as yours, at the body and in the paint-shop just before sanding and masking. At the same time we had some dents and rust fixed. As you can see, I had all the parts removed for a perfect job. You don't see any masking lines (ridges from the drying paint along the tape) or such. Finally decided "not" to paint the A-pillar (will do that once we do roof but will remove the windshield weatherstrip. The color had been matched to perfection by the paint-shop. The A-pillar is slightly matte because of the missing clearcoat (94 had no clearcoat from factory). Then I had the hood, HVAC grille and right side fender painted as well. But it finally cost a fortune.

https://blazerforum.com/g/album/7793153