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Expanding foam+door seal=?
So ive tried everything, but yet my door still leaks. Replaced weather strip and door seal. Hinge is fine, no slack. I was just wondering if anyone has tried putting expanding foam inside of the door seal to get a better seal. opinions? Im just getting tired of it and running out of options.
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I know you said the hinge is OK but im my experience my leaky door was because of the hinge. The brass/bronze bushings wear out & that little room allows the seal to leak.
Mine leaked right above the controls for the mirrors & would toast the switch & fuse often. Hinge kits are cheap, $10 or so & having a helping hand/friend etc makes the R/R easier. |
Yeah, I guess imma have to go ahead and buy a hinge kit. And do all that.
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Can you lift up on the door at all and see play at the hinge? How about feel upward movement in the door as it closes? Both are signs of hinge pin/bushing damage.
You can also check the striker in/out adjustment, possibly removing a shim plate or two if there are any behind the striker to tighten the seal. If the pins/bushings are good and the striker is adjusted in properly, one trick I have seen some people do in the past is to take surgical tubing and thread it through the door weather stripping. You don't want something that fits too snug as it will be a real pain to get pulled through and can over tighten the seal, but something that easily slides in. Adjust the size of the tubing to seal it up nice, but not too tight. Expandable foam probably wouldn't be consistent and likely will not get the results you desire. |
Expandable foam probably wouldn't be consistent and likely will not get the results you desire. |
:icon_ditto: solved my leaks before i tommy boyed my drivers door lol
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BYeah I'm sure it would be quite messy. I'm just becoming desperate lol
Surgical tubing is actually a great ideal. I may also try that. As for the shimes. I think it has a couple. But how would removing some help? |
Removing shims from behind the latch striker will pull the door in closer to the door frame. This would tighten up ~70% of the sealed area with that area concentrated near the latch. Unless the water is entering at the front near the hinge, this could work.
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Oh, no, the leak is more towards the front. Its in the bend. its as if it isn't closing all the way. I think the top of the door is bent in actually. Could it be bent in too far perhaps?
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Only try this if you have verified that your hinge pins/bushings are in good shape. Don't want to go springing your window frame all out of shape.
Take a dollar bill & fold it in half length-wise. With the window open, close the door with the dollar bill in the seal. Then work the dollar from the top of the door closest to the 'B' pillar (where the latch is) towards the 'A' pillar (windshield). Note the area where it is loose and then where it tightens up (if it tightens up). If it does tighten back up near the bottom of the 'A' pillar, then the hinges may be OK and the window frame may be tweaked. This could be a simple matter of tweaking it back into place, but can take a trained hand to do properly. This is not a task for the "I ate my Wheaties this morning" crowd. A little tweak can go along way and you only want to tweak the area where it is loose, supporting the area where it isn't loose. When I have done this in the past, I use a block of wood back where the seal was tight nearer to the latch & push in where it was loose. Remember, a little bit of pressure, then recheck and repeat until you get the same amount of tension all the way around the top part. |
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