Fixing Sagging Doors
 

[/IMG]Here's a fast easy way to repair old sagging doors. Sure you've already replaced the pins but found the door still sags because the door side of the hinge that is not remedied with a new pin has an ovaled out hole. Yes, you could fill weld and drill it back out, but since there is a factory hole nearby, just take some flat stock, drill two holes so they are 7/8" apart (in between hole sides, not C2C), lift the door, slip the plate over the pin, lift the door, and bolt through the factory hole, then set the pin clip back on top. There is enough pin length to use some good 1/8 stock, which is almost as thick as the hinge. On top of that the original hole didn't just ovel out from wear, it likely stretched due to how thin the side metal is since the shape of the hinge is trianguler with the hole in the middle. No welding. Just drill two holes, cut to length, pop on and bolt. Your door will work like new. Since the new stock can be wider it won't stretch and sure it will wear, but how many years did it take the hinge itself to get bad? Hope this helps fix the many many sagging doors.

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Great and helpful post. I've had to replace my driver side door hinge twice now. (Both times in 6 months). I let the original go so long that it really messed up the hole for the bushings... It now looks like an 8.

also what works is when its egged, but not that bad, is when putting in the new bushings, put some jb quick on the bushing and push it into place, then put the new pins in, and close the door, let the jb quick/jb weld set up for a few hours without opening the door. should fill the void in the hinge.

this is what i fix my hinges with it works great i just stick it in the hole and weld the gap file the hole round if needed then put the bushing and pin in.

turn on a lath to get the same outside dia as the bushing then grind the flat on it ..
line up the flat spot with the worn spot in the hinge hit it with the wire welder.

the weld will not stick to the copper so you can remove it easily ..

and before forget you may need to use a flat file to flatten the weld on the hinge ..

if you take your time your hinge will look like new..

The whole purpose of using a slug of copper would be to get a round hole in the end, is it not? If you are putting a flat in it, then you won't have a round hole and would be better off just putting small tack welds in the worn area building it out enough that you can get it back round using a file or by line boring it.

If anyone is going to make a copper slug to use in this scenario, measure the hole on the least worn hinge piece and turn the rod down a few thousandths under the measured diameter to make sure that it will fit well. The bushings are knurled/oversized so using the OD of a bushing would result in a VERY tight fitting slug.

calipers work for measuring the bushing the knife edge on the tips of the caliper is what i used one on each side of the bushing .

the copper slug was turned to .526 of an inch.
the bushings OD measures about .528 on the nurles by making the slug .526 the bushings will be a press fit but not to tight as to break them when you push them in.

the flat on the copper slug is to give you room to weld the hinge hole but the flat must be toward the worn spot in the hinge you only want to fill the worn spot in the hinge.

i tried to use the slug without the flat spot and found you can't get to the bad spot on the hinge with the welder unless you put the flat spot on the slug.

a round file may be needed to finish rounding out the hole.



when i pressed the bushings in they fit tight and did not move .
the pins lined up perfect and went in easily.

this is what i did and it worked well for me.
and is how i will fix the drives door when the weather warms up.

a pic to show what i am saying.

i will do my drivers door hinge when it warms up out side so i can work on it.

pictures will be taken at every step so every one can see what i am saying.

as they say pictures are worth a thousand words.

swartlkk i think you and i can work together to get every one a fix that is easy to do and works the first time.

let me know if you would like to work on this with me ..

anyone have any photos of this little trick installed and in action? I don't see how this works, as the factory preexisting hole you're talking about is on the door side, and the wear that occurs usually on the A pillar side...

Sounds like a whole lot of fooling around to me ;)


Here's a simple fix for a worn out upper hinge, (body half of hinge), and a worn out lower hinge, (door half of hinge). They are brass, not bronze, and they work! They must be pressed in, (not pounded in) so they don't turn in the hinge. 1/4" x 20 bolt, 2 washers, one 3/8" drive socket of the appropriate size, and a 1/4" x 20 nut, does the job. 45 minutes for ONE person, per door, start to finish. One person??? Yup, toss a ratchet strap over a ceiling joist, loop it through the window opening, take the weight off, remove the old pins and bushings, replace the bushings & pins. Nothin' to it. ;) $20 per door.

.010" oversize:
Catalog :: Total Automotive Hinge Kit Solutions

.020" oversize:
Catalog :: Total Automotive Hinge Kit Solutions