Complete Rear Quarter Panel Install questions
#1
12-23-2011, 07:50 PM
Complete Rear Quarter Panel Install questions
I am going to be getting a lot of new body panels to fix the butt load of rust on my rig and the only thing I don't know how to replace is the quarter panels they are complete rear quarter panels for both the left and right side just need to know will it be easier to just have someone else install it professionally and if I do this how much would I be looking at price wise ? and if I do it myself what tools are needed and how long does it take ? I am also going to include a list of all the parts I will be getting just so you all know
Complete LH and RH rear quarter panels
LH and RH rocker panels with door posts
LH and RH front fender inner wheelhouse
Battery tray
So for all these parts plus shipping I am at $518 which I know might seem like a lot I just don't feel like going to a junk yard and cutting all these pieces out and hoping they are right etc etc and that's if the yard does have the pieces I need so I am just getting them new to make it easier also if I were to just take all these parts to a shop and have them professionally installed how much should I be prepared to spend ? I am assuming I will be right around $1,000 with installation costs
UPDATE : So I just got off the phone with a local body shop and my original estimate was WAY off they wan't $2,205 and they said around 44 hours to do just the rear quarter panels and the rocker panels and that price is only if there is no other underlying rust .... HELL NO, I will learn how to weld and do it my damn self my Blazer isn't even close to being worth that much does anyone know of how to install quarter panels and if so can you let me know.
Complete LH and RH rear quarter panels
LH and RH rocker panels with door posts
LH and RH front fender inner wheelhouse
Battery tray
So for all these parts plus shipping I am at $518 which I know might seem like a lot I just don't feel like going to a junk yard and cutting all these pieces out and hoping they are right etc etc and that's if the yard does have the pieces I need so I am just getting them new to make it easier also if I were to just take all these parts to a shop and have them professionally installed how much should I be prepared to spend ? I am assuming I will be right around $1,000 with installation costs
UPDATE : So I just got off the phone with a local body shop and my original estimate was WAY off they wan't $2,205 and they said around 44 hours to do just the rear quarter panels and the rocker panels and that price is only if there is no other underlying rust .... HELL NO, I will learn how to weld and do it my damn self my Blazer isn't even close to being worth that much does anyone know of how to install quarter panels and if so can you let me know.
Last edited by 89Recon; 12-28-2011 at 01:19 PM. Reason: update
#2
01-19-2012, 11:35 AM
I know I am a little late on replying, but this is a large job and I am guessing you are just getting started if you have started it yet.
I am curious on the rust you are cutting out and the quarter panel you are using for replacement. Do you have links and/or pics of both?
If you have not ordered the parts, going to a junk yard and using a good sawzall is not too hard, just be sure to cut much more than you want. The benefit if using replacement panels is they may come complete, and installation will be different then if just a patch. You can try to just patch them also, cutting your rust out keeping what you cut out as complete as possible and using that as a guide and cut the desired section off of the replacement panel.
Do one side at a time. I like to butt the new metal to the old with out a flange. This takes skill not to burn through metal when welding, using a flattened copper pipe as a backer will act as a heat sink to help prevent burn through. A flange may help a newbie welder but it is harder (for me anyways) to get it to line up better. I use something like these Intergrip Panel Clamps Set of 4 - Auto Body Panel Clamps - Auto Rotisserie Clamps to hold the new metal to the old. Be careful when using those, not to line the old metal with the new. You need to make sure the new metal is lining up with the old. Spot weld very slowly, making a spot here and a spot over there and then back there, being mindful not to let the metal get hot, and don't let it cool too quick if it get hot as this is how the metal will warp. It is easy to be anxious and want to just weld it all, but waiting 5 mins. between welds will yield the best results When you do the work, keep all 4 tires on the ground, jacking and raising will distort the body.
Another option to welding is bonding the new metal to the old. 3m and other companies make some good products. I have not used them because I am old school, but the bonding has good reviews and results. I have done my body work on older cars but if I did something in the late model daily driver category I would not hesitate to use it. Though the caulking gun is kinda pricey, but cheaper than a welder.
This is to get started, there is a lot to this job. Two hours into it and you will think paying the quoted price is a bargain. Take your time, it is a fun skill to learn. And be sure to use safety glasses, ear protection, good respirators. If you post some pictures up, maybe we will have some pointers.
Good luck
I am curious on the rust you are cutting out and the quarter panel you are using for replacement. Do you have links and/or pics of both?
If you have not ordered the parts, going to a junk yard and using a good sawzall is not too hard, just be sure to cut much more than you want. The benefit if using replacement panels is they may come complete, and installation will be different then if just a patch. You can try to just patch them also, cutting your rust out keeping what you cut out as complete as possible and using that as a guide and cut the desired section off of the replacement panel.
Do one side at a time. I like to butt the new metal to the old with out a flange. This takes skill not to burn through metal when welding, using a flattened copper pipe as a backer will act as a heat sink to help prevent burn through. A flange may help a newbie welder but it is harder (for me anyways) to get it to line up better. I use something like these Intergrip Panel Clamps Set of 4 - Auto Body Panel Clamps - Auto Rotisserie Clamps to hold the new metal to the old. Be careful when using those, not to line the old metal with the new. You need to make sure the new metal is lining up with the old. Spot weld very slowly, making a spot here and a spot over there and then back there, being mindful not to let the metal get hot, and don't let it cool too quick if it get hot as this is how the metal will warp. It is easy to be anxious and want to just weld it all, but waiting 5 mins. between welds will yield the best results When you do the work, keep all 4 tires on the ground, jacking and raising will distort the body.
Another option to welding is bonding the new metal to the old. 3m and other companies make some good products. I have not used them because I am old school, but the bonding has good reviews and results. I have done my body work on older cars but if I did something in the late model daily driver category I would not hesitate to use it. Though the caulking gun is kinda pricey, but cheaper than a welder.
This is to get started, there is a lot to this job. Two hours into it and you will think paying the quoted price is a bargain. Take your time, it is a fun skill to learn. And be sure to use safety glasses, ear protection, good respirators. If you post some pictures up, maybe we will have some pointers.
Good luck
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