What systems may be prone to failure? I'm just confused because if I run fuel to it I can have it running on an engine stand no problem. If its running in the vehicle, I can then run vacuum and power to whatever needs it...right?

I suppose a more direct question would be what systems rely on the computer right now in the 2000 Blazer? Manual trans, so no issue there. I'm sure ABS has some sort of electrical situation going on...power steering is mechanical...obviously headlights/blinkers/tail lights/brake lights are electrical, but do they rely on the computer? Fuel pump needs power, but I'm fairly confident that is just straight juice and does not rely on the computer control...clutch is mechanical (well, hydraulic)...manual windows, manual locks, no anti theft, no power seats, no power mirrors, no butt warmers in the seats...The only things in the cab that require power currently are the interior lights, radio, and instrument cluster lights

Temp gauge seems fairly obvious how that works; oil pressure, tach, voltage...all seem like they would be simple to wire in a new gauge...I have no problem running a new, separate gauge for each...

It truly seems like you know what you're talking about, and I didn't think you're trying to talk me out of the build, however if you could give me more direct information that would be awesome! This is my first time diving this deep into the abyss, so I know I'm overlooking a lot of (likely fundamental) issues.

 

I know you don't want to hear it, but Odat is giving you good advice.

I'm going to give you a couple examples. Your gauges including speedo work the following way: Sensors input into the PCM. PCM sends computerized data signal on a single wire to the instrument cluster which interprets it and runs stepper motors to move the needles. No computer... no gauges. 2000 Blazers have what is called a BCM (body control module) which handles all power window motors and a lot of the convenience features that you rely on every day including interior lights, etc.

I have heard of people retaining the computer for running the trans and gauges and other things etc when using a carb - but knowing what to connect, what not to connect, and what you need is not a simple task.

What is your carb going to do with the 100+psi pressure your fuel pump is going to put out. There are many issues.

My advice is don't do it. Simply not worth the effort and difficult to do right. If that is a late vortec motor with metric block and crank sensor, just put your cam and intake on it and you're done.

 

I don't have power windows, and can't I run a new standalone speedo? Along with whatever other gauges I want to run? You say "A lot of the convenience features you rely on every day", but interior lights is the only thing I can think of besides the radio...

I'm told that an inline pressure regulator will handle this.

The goal here is to step away from the complexity of the TBI system. Mine has given me nightmares and I'm not very interested in keeping the system.

I feel that maybe I should mention: I'm currently pursuing my B.S. in Electronics Engineering so the idea of running a few wires or creating a couple circuits with toggle switches is not intimidating at all.

Basically, my ultimate concern is can I stick this new motor in, get the right fuel pressure, feed vacuum and power to the required components and drive away? This is based on the fact that I have no electronic components in the cab beyond the interior lights and the radio. If I can buy a 1945 chassis and do the same thing, why can't I do the same here? Sure, I'll lose some modern features but I'm fine with that.

These are honest questions, to be completely up front I just need a reliable, easy to work on set up right now. As long as I can monitor the things that will leave me dead in the water (temp, oil pressure...), I will be a few orders of magnitude beyond the sputtering, high idling, gas guzzling crap I'm dealing with now...and the only solution is to throw money at it and hope to "hit the jackpot"...with a carb sure I won't get the greatest fuel economy, but if something goes wrong I think it will be immeasurably easier to hunt down the issue...no?

 

I have a degree in electronics and telecommunications, and I wouldn't want to try and figure out how to get a carb to work in a "modern" fuel injected vehicle.

I know you want simple, but imo the simplest solution would be to either get the factory fuel injection working properly, or sell the truck and buy something that came factory with a carb.

If you do go through with this swap, please make a thread and document everything you do! Even if someone isn't trying to swap on a carb, the knowledge gained from that in depth of a look into the trucks electronics would be pretty valuable to have around here

 

When I built my toy thanks to all the help I had my VIN numbers to the 92 Jimmy running gear that shes built with were lost / misplaced / put where the sun don't shine { you get the idea } so if my computer ever dies replacing it will joys.
I'll be prob doing the carb set up myself. The difference is mine is a 1992 not a 2000+
With the 92 the computer is not as intertwined as in the 2000, You may get by with taking out sensors like O2, map, crank sensor ECT. You will have to leave the computer in and run temp, oil sensors ect and maybe the gauges will work,
But as the computer will be missing most of the input it needs to function I wouldn't put bets on it lasting trouble free for long if at all.
You will have to change the fuel pump out for a low pressure pump and more than likely have to run a regulator as well.
Trouble free easy to diagnose vehicle NO, you will no longer have the option of plugging a reader in to read codes, But you will get good at trouble shooting the old school way before you had a computer to tell you where to maybe look....

 

I guess I'm just confused because if I can get the motor running on a stand, without any computer elements, what changes when I stick it onto a chassis? Shouldn't matter if it's a model T or a 2019 Lambo, as long as it gets fuel, air, spark, it should still run exactly the same right? This hypothetical is, of course, assuming the loss of complex functions...but shouldn't the motor still run just the same?

 

As long as you don't mind giving up all your guages, interior lights, power locks, windows, mirrors, and seats, and can figure out how to drop the fuel pressure from 100+psi down to ~5 psi (the FI has a return line, as well, which dumps back on the pump to help cool it. Not sure if you would need that or not, depending on how you decide to do the pump) and can figure out a stand alone ignition system, you should be good.

Also, how does the starter/ignition switch tie in with the computer? That might need to be completely rewired as well. Plus, if you're using the stock pump, and planning on regulating it down to carb pressure, that might go through the computer as well, and would need some different way to be powered
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Ya it should run - and may limp down the road...
But you are missing the point that even tho it may run - if nothing else works thu out the vehicle it's still pretty much useless...
It may not charge, blinkers may not work, headlights may not work ECT ECT ECT just depending on how intergrated the 2000 system is.

 

Gauges, as far as I have been told, can all be ran individually (as in buy new standalone gauges and wire them up)...pain in the *** but not a big deal. No power anything inside, just interior lights, which I can wire up no problem assuming I can get clean juice. The guy who built the engine told me to put a pressure regulator in the send line and use the existing return. Ignition and fuel pump I plan on doing what I call "race car style", toggle for the pump and toggle for the starter.

Have an HEI Ignition system with it...basically I am looking at doing this like an old school rat rod except inside a nice modern body. Super stripped down powertrain, all beef no fixins haha...

The guy who is telling me the info is the guy I bought it from, who has been running a business building race engines for the last 50 years.

My other option is to talk to a friend of a friend, who runs a shop in town and specializes in custom work. He builds custom wiring harnesses and apparently does top notch work. But that's $$$...

 

Well, I hope the best for you!

Please, start a build thread when you get started! I'm very curious to see how it turns out!
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