2002 Blazer LS 4x4 Front Suspension Replacement
 

I just bought a 2002 Blazer (first time owning an SUV) with only 87k and there's not much wrong with it. The only two things I noticed are a potential steering box replacement and a bouncy ride (feels like your floating in a boat on the ocean when going over dips and such). So first thing is first...I want to replace the front shocks. The back end seems okay and isn't sagging, but eventually I will get that replaced as well.

For now, I need to know a few things:
How much should I expect to pay if I have a mechanic do it?
Is there anything else I should consider replacing while I'm having the front shocks replaced?

I've received three quotes so far and they've ranged from $700 to $1100, which to me sounds insane. I paid $350 to have the rear end of my 2008 Civic redone.

Anyway, I appreciate your help. Thank you.

My $0.02, don't just buy the cheapest components you can and have them installed... I went that route, bought a complete kit off eBay for like $70 and did all the work myself. Within 6 months I was replacing the ball joints AGAIN because they started popping and rattling... Had to replace the idler arm shortly after because it had so much slop my steering was all over the place...

I was looking at KYB. From everything I've heard, they seem to be highly reliable.

If you can afford it, Moog is the best quality as far as I'm concerned, and I'm sure a lot of others on the forum will agree with me. I put the replacement Mood ball joints on my 04 after the cheap ones failed, that was about 3 years ago now, and they're still going strong. But they will cost you more up front.

If new shocks don't cure the bounce, you may want to look into the acorn shaped bump stops. They absorb the suspension travel over bumps and keep the torsion bars from over flexing.

All 4 Moog tie rod/ drag link ends failed on my Jeep not even after a year of use so it's hard for me to recommend them. AC Delco Professional will be the closest thing to the OE part as far as I'm concerned.

If you are going to have the work done at a shop make sure you know what you are getting. The Blazer is originally equipped with Bilstien shocks. These are premium and expensive but the blazer really needs them to get the proper ride. I replaced the shocks on my blazer myself and the job is pretty straight forward except the front shocks will give you some difficulty. You need to find a way to compress the shock a little so you can line up the bolt holes. I used a strap to hold the shock compressed then installed it, then cut the stap after getting it bolted in place. I also used Monroe monotube, which are good shocks and cost less than the Bilstiens but I'm not sure what i think about the ride quallity. I guess its OK the vehicle is getting old all around.

Perhaps I was lucky as I bought Bilstein shocks from TireRack.com for about $68 each and had my teenage sons replace them with my supervision. It was a simple straight forward job.

The bump stops were a bit more of a challenge but a 15 mm racheting wrench make short work of it. Penetrating oil is a must and make sure you are turning the right way. Don't ask me how I know but Tectron has 6 point ratchet wrenches.

Also is the price quoted for the shocks and steering box? if so then it's not too bad but not as fun as doing it yourself.

I've had good luck for the last several years with my Moog ball joints and idler arm. Anything of less quality than Moog for idler arms are known for getting lots of slop (they start moving up and down). The only other brand I've heard good things about for idler arms is Proforge.

If you are very serious about having toughest suspension parts, look at https://www.outfitterdesign.com/1-to...m-bracket.html for their 1-ton idler arm adapter part. This is what I have in mind if I decide that I need something tougher.

I have a 05' 2dr 4x4 Bought a lift kit awhile back never had the time to install it and at one point someone gave me a heads up on a package deal on front end parts ..Lower arms, Ties, Idler, Pitman, sway bar bushings and links ..few hundred ...During last weeks Heat wave i was out there in full sun bashing away Even have a cartoon sized thumb to show for it Add to the Rough country lift kit Upper arms shocks (which i hear are sub par at best) and the ranchos are better with this lift $$$ ...Anyways its all out Like a Englishman's trip to the dentist I then hit the wheel well frame with a 3 diffrent shaped wire wheels knocked off 95% of the rust and nailed it with 2 good coats of rust paint My diff and seized in Cv axles are in my back yard waiting for me to figure out my next move ...Make a puller and reuse after i mod the diff case for the lift kit bracket that go's in there or Mod the diff case and install new ones ..Remembering In the USA its cheap $40 to $50 each ...However i am in Canada $120 plus a stupid amount of shipping fees ..Sometimes x2 the cost of the part

Anyways my point is ..Know what your getting into before you remove a bolt ..Make sure the parts you are replacing are infact the cause of the problems and while your in that area what else should be replaced ..I knew someone that replaces a ball joint on one side of the car because that was the problem at the time..Over the weekend he installed it and i happen to see him at the tail end of putting the wheel on ..I asked why only the one? how old is the other one? said didnt feel like doing both 3 weeks later The other one popped after getting a famous place known for potholes Tow bill was over $200 Shop charge $100 /hr Balljoint $38



If you plan on keeping the truck away and its worth of it Put in good parts ...good luck