Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal
R & I





Fig. 1: Loosen pinion shaft lockscrew






Fig. 2: Remove the lockscrew in order to free the pinion shaft






Fig. 3: Once the shaft is freed, withdraw it from the differential






Fig. 4: Push the axle shaft to expose the C-lock, then remove the lock in order to free the axle shaft






Fig. 5: Remove the shaft by pulling it straight back and from the housing tube






Fig. 6: Remove the old seal, but be careful not to damage the sealing surface






Fig. 7: Install a new seal using a suitable installation tool or driver






Fig. 8: Cross-sectional view of a common axle bearing and seal assembly






Fig. 9: Use a slide hammer, bearing puller and adapter to remove the old axle bearing

Although the axle shaft is easily removed using common hand tools, special tools are required if the bearings are also to be serviced.
[ol][*]Raise and support the rear of the vehicle safely using jackstands. [*]Remove the rear wheel and brake drum.
CAUTION
Brake shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
[*]Using a wire brush, clean the dirt/rust from around the rear axle cover. This should be done to help prevent foreign material from entering the rear axle and possibly damaging the differential. [*]Place a catch pan under the differential, then unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the rear cover. When removing the cover, a small prytool may be used at the base of the cover to gently pry it back from the axle housing, breaking the gasket seal and allowing the lubricant to drain out into the container. Be careful not to use excessive force and damage the cover or housing. [*]Remove the rear pinion shaft lockbolt and the pinion shaft from the differential. [*]Push the axle shaft inward, then remove the C-lock from the button end of the axle shaft. [*]Remove the axle shaft from the axle housing by pulling straight back on the shaft hub, be careful not to damage the oil seal with the shaft splines.
NOTE: It is recommended, when the axle shaft is removed, to replace the oil seal.
[*][color=#0000cc]If the bearing and/or oil seal is being replaced, use a medium pry bar to carefully pry the old oil

 

I did this repair also and would like to add that I got a slide hammer bearing puller at Advance Auto parts in Corry, PA that ended up costing me nothing. All I had to do was pay one hundred and thirty some (forget exact amount) dollars toward the bearing puller which was returned to me when the repair was complete and upon the return of the tool in good condition. The puller had a five pound slide hammer and worked like a charm!
-Dave

 

. TRULY APOLOGIZE FOR THE HIJACK.Transportation for a 9yr old battling BONE CANCER I think would warrant a hijack. I'm in the middle of 35 degree weather doin my rear axle seals on my 89 s10 blazer. Somebody before me for some reason used the wrong size size wrench or socket and rounded the head on my pinion shaft lockscrew. I have got to get this back on the rd, Please give some workable options. As you know that pinion has to come out so when I push axle in I can grasp the c clip, just as explained In the very beginning of this thread. Great documentation from MNHAWK. I have no clue where to even start

 

Bolt extractors...

 

I can't get it turned enough to get it drilled or even or punched straight. As you can see from the top 2 pics, the can't even fit a 1/4 drive ratchet. I've heart chevys have less rood than most other. If yave anyother suggestions please advise, you always are helpful. Matter of fact THANX TO ALL OF YOU for your help.

 

What I was talking about are the ones that fit over the bolt head and bite into what's left.

 

Thanx they worked. As always thanx to all