abs & brake light still on..
 

i have now changed rear brake pads, calipers and flex brake lines./ up front, master cylinder , pads and flex hoses. i un hooked the neg terminal on battery for bout 15 mins to try and clear codes......short test drive later , abs light comes back on and so does the brake dash indicator light. i was hoping that the things i replaced would fix my prob but i guess not. i thinking the parking brake may need to be adjusted.. is there an adjustment after u replace rear calipers and pads??? is my abs module altogeher just plain shot??

If unhooking the battery is clearing the lights, only for it to come on as soon as you start moving again, then that tells me it's a wheel speed sensor.

Bolted to the hub bearings is a sensor who's wire runs up along the upper control arm. Two things commonly make them stop working. Either a failed hub/bearing assembly, or the wire on the sensor itself has either just degraded from steering and suspension movement or it's rubbed up against something and wore into the wire.

I had a similar issue with my 04 when I got it. Tracked it down to being the front right wheel speed sensor. I actually snagged a sensor off a Silverado in the junk yard, same plug and same sensor at the hub end, just has about a 6" longer wire lead. Issue resolved as soon as I installed it, and it's been installed now for about 5 years.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/blazerf...51decd97d2.jpg

could work
 

thanks for the feedback blazen_red_4x4. i will try this fix tomorrow and let u know....
ps.. ive worked at the plant there in lake city a long time ago.... Champion Homes

If everything checks out the problem is most likely bad solder joint in the EBCM what you'll need to do is look for the module on the driver side under hood you will see an metal lid get a razor blade and cure around the cover you don't need to remove the whole module once the cover is removed you will see 4 raised solder joints in a row you can find this info on YouTube get a solder gun and solder from harbor freight should cost $8 for both resolder those joints that should take care of your problem and you'll also have your abs back as week

I have no problem doing that.. im also having some other issues as well . Ive been on vacation so im just getn back to my blazer.. today i went and got warranty replacement front calipers for my blazer because they were sticking and I could not figure out why for the life of me so I changed them out and now I have no brakes at all. I goto bleed the air out and was getn air at first then fluid in the rear but pedal never goes to floor.. I move up front bleed the front brakes where I replace the calipers and the pedal goes to the floor but I still have no brakes. ABS lights on brake lights on but when I tap the brake real hard brake light goes out. Crank the car up brakes are mushy and I really have no brakes pedal goes to the floor. It's a Blazer is running and I'm pumping the brakes it affects the idle RPMs.
Don't really know where to go next. I've been working with GeorgeL on this project but any insight you may have is always a plus

it sounds like air stuck in the distribution block at the ABS pump you will need a good vacuum bleeder and some patience of you haven't flushed the system out thoroughly with new brake fluid now's the best time to do it I don't know what has been covered yet you may know this but start at the farthest tire from the master cylinder and work your way up to the closest

I appreciate your response. I've been working on this problem for a little while with GeorgeL . Man I've replaced the master cylinder the front calipers the back calipers and pads 4 flex brake lines and the fluid of course. I have never in my life had such a difficult time with breaks and I think it was all because my buddy come up with a good idea to blow the lines out with air at each wheel from the master cylinder and I believe you're probably right I got air in the ABS unit. But what does the RPM fluctuation when the pedal is pressed while motor is running mean when I press the brake while the engine is running the RPMs idle speed gets affected. As soon as I can get me a good bleeder I will and I'll try that. Thanks again I'll let you know the outcome it'll probably be a day or two though

Oh yeah the blowing the air lines was a bad idea what I would do it start bleeding at the distribution block pull one steel line at a time then work your way out then back in like I said patience is key here your buddy made a bed you gotta lay in on this one as for the rpm change the brake booster pulls that vacuum from the engine when your pedal drops to the floor it momentarily pulls a good bit a vacuum which could be causing your RPM to rise and fall when you push pedal In it's like taking a vacuum line off and putting it on real quick once you get your brakes right you shouldn't have the issue anymore regarding the rpm fluctuation

Said and done...
 

All right well here's the final culprits. I finally went and got my ABS codes read today. They are as follows....
Co265 ecbm relay circuit (abs module)
Co221 right front wheel sensor
Co237 rear wheel speed sensor( trunk)
Text said my ABS unit is bad and two wheel speed sensors... Now we have it. I did the front caliper warranty at O'Reilly s. switch them out put them onBlazers basically driving fine all except the mushy pedal. Any thoughts

All the codes you were showing were from bad solder joint on the module like I have said previously I had the same codes before I fixed it for a few bucks as for mushy brakes you still have air some where picture a line with a balloon in it you got fluid on both sides if you push the brakes the fluid pushes into the balloon(air) it causes the petal to travel and never fully contact the fluid on the other side since the air acts as a damper you'll never build the pressure needed to have a firm peddle