Yeah, there is a lot of info to digest.

The 2.5" RC lift kit is a very popular option. And once you get it all sorted out, you will have a very capable little truck.

I don't anything about the 6" lift although I do believe when many people do it, they substitute the stock front independent front axle and install a solid axle from a Jeep Cherokee. It is a lot more more work.

Another option you might consider is to raise the body of the truck above the frame. There are spacers that can be installed where the body bolts to the frame. You'll have to ask about that one.

Finally, as for spacers, I had rear spacers on my rear axle to bring the width of the rear track to be the same as the front. I thought it might give me a bit more stability. I think that was the case but it is hard to do proper comparisons. Normally the front track is wider than the rear for road driven cars and this is done intentionally, I believe to help with tracking and steering. My adding of the spacers at the rear was for when I'm off-pavement. It is compromise I was willing to live with. The stock track widths for a 2dr, 2nd gen Blazer are 57.2" front and 55.1" rear. So adding about 1.0" to both sides would make both the same.

When you do go to buy wheel spacers, the conventional wisdom is to get "hub centric" ones and be sure to use lock-tite on the installation bolts.

 

ok that's what I've noticed from the pics i saw online a solid axle from a Jeep Cherokee for the 6" lift, now i know.
I'm going to look into the spacers for the frame.
and that's great to know about the hub centric spacers as well, thank you.

now I'm going to upload the pictures i took for Don.

 

left

left

right

right

right

right

left

stock shock ? replaced from RC shock i don't know why they did that and didn't tell me

 

nothing is loose but i did notice they are not symmetrical

if this part is the sway bar, i believe?


maybe that's what's leading to the excessive wear to the link stabilizers

thanks to Christine, i managed to find and purchase the parts which i hope are correct, i have not had a chance to get them installed yet.

 

To what I can see in the pics, you got the full kit installed... unfortunately at that angle with the cv axles, they have the tendency to bind while turning. So this could be what your hearing. I put spacers on mine before i did an axle swap for the zr2 axle, and I felt the difference in cornering... but now that I have the zr2 axle, I don't need them and sold them lol...

I believe that rough country says their 6" lift doesnt fit the 2 doors, but im unsure why... as christine said, many do the solid axle swap... which is a better choice imo... I'm not sure if there are kits made for the 2 door models anymore for 6" lift... might have to do a body lift with your rc lift to achieve the 6" lift height...

I would try and level out thw rear sway bar when installing the end links... other then that, keep us posted on your findings...

 

awesome you guys are a great help thank you!

 

EDIT!!
Below was my original reply but I have since found a picture with the passenger side front axle relocation wedge installed. But I could not find if the bracket for mounting the axle on the driver side was also installed. I can't imagine someone not doing both. But if only the wedge was installed, I can only imagine that the axle alignment would be WAY off.

Christine

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Don,

My take on the installation is that it is possible that the front axle drop hardware was not installed. From my reading of the installation instructions (attached) the front axle is lowered relative to the frame so that the angles on the CV joints are not too different than from stock.

So, if I'm correct and everything else but the front axle spacer/modified bracket were installed, and then the front torsion bars were cranked way up to achieve the total lift of 2.5 inches, then the CV joints would definitely bind. Axle relocation hardware, an extended bracket and a wedge, is shown in Photo 32 and Photo 33 of the attached installation instructions.

On my milder lift, I don't have any of the binding issues although the inner edge of my inner CV boots did slip off and I had to fix them due to the larger angle to the joints.

All that said, the pictures the OP posted are not quite definitive. Did you see something I missed?

 

that would make sense , when i first got it, the T bar was super cranked and it tore the cv boots thats why i had to get them replaced. i asked them to lower it to a point where the CV joints were not under so much stress and that's what they came up with, even though they have a bit of an angle still (hopefully not to a damaging point)
that's probably why they took the shocks out? and also why my lift is a little un even.

 

I was looking closely at the pics he posted, and you can just make out the drop hardware for the diff. Although it does move the diff lower, it is not enough. I still had huge angles on mine after the lift. I think that's one flaw of the lift kit.

 

ok i see from the photo now , i wonder if the kid i bought it from cut the differential.
and if he did how would i know if it was damaged . i should be able to see the cut if the bracket is not there or you can do this without cutting it at all?