Need Some Tips On Lift Kits
 

I'm considering lifting my 1999 Blazer 4x4. Stock height on the 2nd-gen Blazer just doesn't feel like a 4x4. I need some suggestions, and if anyone can post pics as examples, that would be great.

Basically, I need to keep handling a priority. I don't actually go offroad very often, so the Blazer is primarily a daily driver. The lift will mainly be for looks, but also functional since the Blazer is so low-profile anyway. My tires are new, so I'm not looking to upgrade to a bigger size at the moment. In addition it would set my speedometer off, and I don't know of a way to change that because of the electronic speed sensor.

I've heard that a body lift has little to no effect on handling, but that it looks really bad. One thing I don't like about the design of my Blazer is how clearly you can already see the frame sitting below the body from a distance, making it look even closer to the ground. A suspension lift would look much better and get the frame farther from the ground, but everything I've driven with a suspension lift tends to drift all over the road.

If I lift it, I'll probably only go about 2". Does anyone have pics of a Blazer with only a body lift? Other than installing the blocks, would anything else need to be adjusted (transmission shifter linkages, steering shaft, wiring, etc.)? I don't know who installed the lifts on the other vehicles I drove so I don't know if they cut corners. Is there a way to install a 2" lift that won't negatively effect handling? I wouldn't imagine a factory ZR2 would have handling issues and they came with a factory upgraded suspension, so hopefully its possible to upgrade my own without causing problems. Thanks for any help!

EDIT: I just noticed that suspension mods have their own forum. If a mod could move this there I would really appreciate it!

if you look for performance accessories instruction pdf online it will help you look at the body lift option...its not really too bad to do yourself.

as far as 2" of lift and your not sure...i would do the torsion bar crank 1.5 inches and add some rear 2" lift shackles on the rear. that lift would cost you around 100.00
so either way your not out to much cash.
the body lifts normally run from 200-300.
as far as the body gaps...i and a couple others around here use some rubber mats or semi trailer mud flaps to make some guards...again not to pricey.

as far as the body lift not alot of things need to change at all...check out the pdf

hope that helps.

here is a t.b. tweek and 2" shackles with a 2" body lift and slight
fender trimming with 31" tires, this is a bout the cheapest way to go....
and there is no linkage issuses or brake line stuff to deal with

Have there been any negative effects on handling from the lifted shackles and TB tweak? How do you do the torsion bar tweak, and does it effect alignment? I'm not exactly sure what the torsion bars are or what they do; most of the work I've done with suspension has been on Jeeps that have solid front axles. Has it had any negative effects from the increased driveshaft angle?

One thing I've considered doing is a suspension upgrade mirroring a ZR2 package. Since that was a factory option, I would imagine a ZR2 would have pretty solid handling ability, and I've noticed they seem to sit higher than the basic packages. What all is upgraded in a ZR2 suspension from the factory?

Torsion bars are the main weight bearing "springs" used in the blazer - instead of having vertical struts, which are a combination of shocks (which the blazer still has) and a large metal spring (this is the part replaced by the torsion bar) around the shock, the blazer has long metal rods that run horizontally in line with the body, one end of which is connected to the frame, just behind the front doors, if i recall correctly, and the other end is connected to the lower control arm.

There is an adjustment bolt on the end of the torsion bar that you can use to tighten or loosen the torque on the torsion bar - maybe toque isn't the right way to describe it...if you tighten said adjustment bolts it should raise the front end but I would suspect it would make the ride stiffer as well...

ZR2's have stiffer spring rates, lift comes from the frame modifications.

I'm not sure, but I think the word you were looking for was "tension", lol.

That actually makes sense, but will I need to have my front end re-aligned? I just had that done, and usually lifting the suspension stretches steering linkages, thus having an effect on the toe-in/toe-out of the front wheels. I've not crawled under to look at it yet, but before I start messing around with it I was wondering about your experience. $50 for another alignment isn't much considering the overal cost of a budget 2" lift, but I need to know ahead of time before I start messing with it.

Since I have to replace a nasty rusted shackle on my 98 anyway, I am quite interested in this as well.

be warned cranking your torsion bars will put you out of alignment a lot. It will also destroy your front end parts much quicker than leaving it stock. Also cranking the torsion bars will also make your ride stiffer

im not one that is buying into the stiffer line of thinking on the torsion bar
adjustment, only because if you think about it, all that is happening when a person adjusts the bolt is re indexing the position of where the torsion bar is resting, the is no change in the torsion bar itself only the position of the torsion bar and the 6 flat surfaces on each end, i do have the ZR2 bars installed and they are stiffer, only because of the different torsion bar spring rate.... oh yea,on the front end parts, they do wear faster...