Hey all. I just bought a 99 Jimmy with what looks like half a spider gear punched through the diff cover. Got it for a song because of this. I have a 97 Jimmy for parts (engine died after the LIM gasket was replaced). I think it would be easier to swap the carrier guts or the whole carrier (both trucks have GU6 codes on the RPO in the glove box). My 97 is definitely LS (posi), but the previous owner can't tell me if the 99 is LS or open... My question is how tricky would swapping spiders/clutches be? Would it really be easier to swap axles? Thanks in advance for any insight and advice...

PS: I haven't opened up the diff on the 99 yet to see the condition of the R&P, just thinking ahead...

 

You would be better of swapping the axles. You really have to know what you are doing when replacing gears, there are some tight tolerances that you must follow or you will have problems.

 

If the R&P are hooped, I would swap whole axles... But just replacing spiders is that touchy, too? I've never put spider gears back in, but I have pulled them and installed a lunchbox locker before...

 

Okay, so I've done some more thread searching and reading. From what I believe I understand, I should be able to trade G80 LS guts for G80 LS guts relatively easily if the 99 actually has the LS and not an open diff. But if it IS an open diff I would be better off to swap complete axles rather than swap carriers. This is on the assumption that the ring and pinion are still ok in the 99. Am I right? Or do the clutch packs in the LS need preload/backlash settings?
(LS= limited slip).

 

You can swap g80 guts for open and vise versa. I went from a open carrier to a g80 in my 04 CC. Just be sure to use the same shims from the same axle the carrier came from and don't forget to swap the pinion.

 

Thanks for the responses... I'm hoping there's no damage to ring, pinion and carrier, and wanting to swap the guts with the carrier still in the diff and not touch the R&P or carrier. I don't have the tools or knowledge for setting up preload/backlash and to press bearings. I don't have the vehicles in the same place and that's why I want to avoid a complete axle swap... I guess I'll just have to open the 99 up and hope it is just spiders that are wrecked. I can do that as long as I use the same shims in the same carrier, right? Thanks again!

 

i would bet there is damage to the R&P. if you dont have the tools or knowledge you should just swap the complete axle assy.

 

Ok, the weather up here is supposed to be a bit warmer tomorrow, so I'm planning on this axle swap happening. Both trucks are immobile and outdoors. Are there any issues that anyone can give me a heads up on so I can take everything I'll need and not have to run back and forth? Should just be 12 bolts and 3 lines, right? I've had new U-bolts made up for the one I plan on driving. Any helpful input would be greatly appreciated. TIA...

 

I would take an angle grinder to the old u-bolts and shackles. cut the flex hose of the truck you are pulling it from(should be replaced if its original anyway). 4 bolts on u-joint straps(7/16" iir). pair of pliers and a hammer and prybar to remove the drums to get the e-brake cables out. bolts for the sway bar..

 

A heavy duty air compressor and impact if you got it.