Tcase front output shaft options?
 

So, I broke my front driveshaft yesterday. Looking at options for a new one. I want to get away from the stock cv style, and go with u joints on both ends.

The problem seems to be the 17 spline front output shaft. I've read that jeep 231 tcases front yoke will fit. Anyone ever done this? Or have any ideas?

Edits:
I'll edit this first post with any updates, might make it easier in the future for someone trying to do this same conversion.

First gen (I think) and second gen up to 97 had the wide 1.25" chain. Jeep stuff is 1" chain, so it won't work, unless you have a 98+.
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I pulled my output shaft and driveshaft from a 98 Durango, had the 231D HD transfer case.

Prices:
- Dshaft, yoke, and output shaft was like $52 at pick n pull.
- Tcase rebuild kit for a 233c about $73 shipped from rock auto. This did not include a chain, but had all bearings and seals. You could cut the cost down by keeping old bearings, and only replacing the seals you disturb. But you're already in the case, might as well do it right
- RTV/sealant. I already had some Yamabond left over from my front diff, so didn't cost me anything. You will need some type of sealant for the case. There are no gaskets, the case halves are sealed together.
- couple quarts of ATF to fill the case back up with, $14. Spec I believe is 1.25 quarts.

Preliminary fitting shows the Durango driveshaft to fit perfectly!
The tcase isn't fully seated yet, maybe 3/4" back, but the shaft fits, near the end of its expansion. So when everything is made up, it should be relatively near the middle of its travel. More to come this week, along with pics

Drive shaft is installed, and fits like it was factory! Almost exactly in the middle of the slip travel!
I'm going to have to "clearance" my exhaust a little, though. There is a grease fitting that doesn't have much room between it and the exhaust, but a couple good whacks with a mini sledge should solve that

There is this possibility I have come across at the place that has the bracket for the upgraded idler arm I'll be installing someday:

https://www.outfitterdesign.com/s-10...iveshafts.html

Forgot to mention, i emailed that guy earlier. I saw that driveshaft after you posted the link to the front diff in another thread.

He told me that shaft won't work, with the amount of lift I have. I asked why, he said the pinion angle will cause vibrations. Even though the lift kit corrected the pinion angle at the diff, since the angle at the t case is sharp enough, it'll cause vibrations, and not work, according to him.

The CV unit takes a lot of vibration out of the drive shaft and increases flex movement think of it as having two wrists in your arm twice the movement with no binding. its really not advised to run without it.

Thinking about going with a double cardan setup, if I can get a front output shaft that accepts it.

Tom Woods should be able to build you one. Check their order page/measuring guide to see if they have a flange to match yours. They're also very helpful on the phone if you want to give them a call. They've probably built me 10 driveshafts over the years, and every one was top notch.

So, I know "if you have to ask, you can't afford it" but ballpark, what did those run you? Never had a driveshaft built, have no idea if it'll be $100 or a $1,000

The ones I've had done ranged from about $200 to $550. Some can probably be done for less, and some can be way more. Best to call them, tell them what you need, and let them quote you a price.

So, Tim woods sells an S10 shaft, that works with 231 front output yokes, for $300. Hopefully I can find a jeep 231 case, swap the output shaft, go ahead and overhaul the case while I have it out, and be good to go for less than that other driveshaft I was looking at

Edit: it has a double cardan joint on the tcase end, so no vibrations, and no worries with the driveline angle

Sweet!