I have that same issue. I'll be getting some before i go to Vegas now. Thanks!

 

I know this thread is old, but I'd like to know if anyone has found a solution? I have the same issue at around the same MPH.

 

Read the link on the top of page 2. Basically says its an unresolved issue lying in the front end. Some tires/wheels make it worse like in my case. (cheap tires) Take a read. It will save you time and money!

 

Just an FYI, I rotated my tires, excluding the spare because it's a different width than the other four, and the problem mostly went away. I say mostly because there is still vibration, but it's hard to distinguish between what should be normal and what shouldn't be.

 

I had this problem with my 2000....

Front left vibration...mostly at 60+ mph

Have the shop balance and rotate all your tires.

See if the tire rotation moves the problem...if it does...you probably have a bad rim.

 

Hub Bearing!!!!! I got a price for the parts for mine at Advance auto, National Brand... $242.00 each...if you go there DO NOT get they`re OE brand, I rec did for my g/f`s father 99 Jeep Cherokee and they were 1/4 " shorter in overall width of the orig bearings, we had to make spacers for behind the rotors to get the wheels to stick out properly... We wound up cutting the spacers from two front rotors for a 99 Dodge caravan and the fit perfectly..the lug holes were an exact match.. Get a good brand do it right and do it once..

 

my 97 blazer w/95K miles on it vibrates between 50-70mph and is LOUD, seems to be coming from the front end. I just replaced balljoints, drive axles, hubs to try to eliminate this and also because these parts had serious rusting issues. the noise/vibration is still there.

I'm thinking driveshaft or front differential. I'm really tempted to dump this blazer if I cannot solve this. The blazer body, interior and everything else is in great shape.

I'm assuming the front driveshaft does not turn until 4wd is engaged. If I did not live in NH I would be tempted to remove the drive axles and just 2wd it....

Any other thoughts??

Thanks
Royce

 

I have this problem, like most of the blazer community. It is annoying from 60-70, and downright scary at higher speeds!

 

Finally fixed my vibration- replaced rear axle shafts/bearings!

 

Hey there, I have been grappling with this very same issue for 4 years.
CAR STATS: 2000 S-10 Blazer 4x4 2dr. 144K miles

Question for Nats1956!
What did the rear end work cost?
You have to wonder if Nats1956 could have replaced the car with something else cheaper, (probably not American made. .. . hmmm.)

I am wondering: Did the car not vibrate when raised off the ground and with the car in gear? It seems that that would have been the first thing to try!!

Has anyone else been able to kill the vibration with
work on the REAR END?

* * *
I'm furious at CHEVY and wonder if I will ever buy one again.
So far I have replaced my intake mainfold gasket 3x. (Only on the 3rd try did NAPA offer the AFTERMARKET FIX for the CHEVY DESIGN FLAW.)
Also replaced the gas pump 2x and the gas gague sending unit in the tank is broken for the 3rd time. (Odometer serves as gas gague.)

If these are known problems, wouldn't a FACTORY RECALL for the intake manifold be in order? Oh yeah, it doesn't kill you only your bank account. . . no wonder they went BANKRUPT.
__________________________________________________ ______


Remediation Attempts: Nothing has worked so far.
Most recently, the district manager at Best One Tires in Nashville TN personally road force balanced tires 9-12 and all variance was only HALF of the allowable specs. (NOTE: These tires had less than 400 miles on them and 3 of them were over 3/4 oz. off EACH after only 400 miles. . . )
The test drive after the 'perfect balance' was much like previous drives with newly balanced tires:
Vibration no longer started at 63 mph, but at 68 and was less strong. BUT it was still there between 68-78. Bummer.

Replaced all TIRES 3 times now
ROAD FORCE BALANCED EACH time and or the most recent
replacement rebalanced to perfection every 400 miles.
The vibration 'unbalances' the tires with wear! - NOPE
(PS: Cooper replaced the first set after 15.000 because
the local Tire shop BEST ONE TIRES IN NASHVILLE TN,
went to bat for me and had diagnosed that they were
all SHOT. - Of the next 4, one was replaced after 500
miles and 3 more were replaced after 3,000 miles.
This all to the fantastic service of BEST ONE TIRES and
Their store manager Ken Bainton and the District manager Blaine.)
ALL WHEELS were taken to a specialized RIM SHOP for straightening but they came back untouched. . . they were 100% true.
Replaced Drive Shaft - NOPE
Rebuilt Transfer Case - NOPE
Replaced all SHOCKS - NOPE

Was considering the Pitman Arm, Suspension Bushings, and hub bearings, but it is cheaper to buy a different car. . . .
After reading that this vibration is KNOWN BY CHEVY, I am now going to stop chasing after un-fixable problems. . .

I hope to hear news if the rear end is truly the cause. . .
THANKS for all the participation and contributions to this thread. . .


The ugly history of the vibration:

Had it with an unmatched set of tires and absolutely everybody told me that it is because of the tires. (I believed them.)

Bought new tires (cheap but allegedly round! Mastercraft, the budget brand of Cooper Tires. I told the dealer, I plan to sell the car, so I don't need high end 60K mile tires. Just round ones with less road noise.)

Still had vibration issues and fought with the local garage for 3 years. . . while slowly replacing stuff like shocks (see above).

Finally wrote MASTERCRAFT (it is not easy to find a way to contact them. . . they don't seem to like customers giving them feedback on the high rate of failure on their tires. MASTERCRAFT put me in touch with a local dealer in Nashville. Best One Tires took extreemely good care of me. After all, it was not their problem, but they made fixing it their mission. (No I do not work for them or own the company. It is just good finally getting great service and concern from a chain store! http://www.bestonenashville.com/ )

FIRST SET: I paid a small charge for a new set of Mastercraft tires which were a better grade than the old set. (not a bad deal).
Vibration was low but I cold still feel it.
1 DEFECTIVE TIRE - After 500 miles. The vibration was BAD AGAIN. 1 tire replaced and all were road force balanced again. (Many oz. of weight needed.)
3 DEFECTIVE TIRES - After 3000 miles. Vibration had become intolerable and I had time to go back to BEST ONE TIRES in Nashville.
The first diagnosis was that one RIM was defective - took ti back to the rim shop and they diagnosed that the casing/belt had a defect.
Went back to BEST ONE and they decided to replace three tires. (Keep in mind that this was all no charge to me.)

October 29th 2010 - after only 400 miles, all tires were road force balanced again - see description above. Best One now is looking to see if there is something in the suspension - suspecting deteriorated bushings after 10 years and 144K miles. . .

This is a fantastic thread. . . sure might save me some additional time and money. Thanks nats1956.

Whewwww.