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-   Steering, Suspension & Drivetrain (https://blazerforum.com/forum/steering-suspension-drivetrain-36/)
-   -   wanting 31s on a stock 98 (https://blazerforum.com/forum/steering-suspension-drivetrain-36/wanting-31s-stock-98-a-88030/)

64sschevelle 11-30-2014 07:23 PM

wanting 31s on a stock 98
 
If I need to lift it to make it happen what's the cheapest way to stuff a 31 on a 98 2 door 4x4

newguy 12-01-2014 05:14 AM

2 inch lift, 2 inch body lift

64sschevelle 12-01-2014 05:55 AM

Which do you recommend on a budget ? How easy is the install

newguy 12-01-2014 05:57 AM

Cheapest way body lift 200 or so, suspension 500.00

64sschevelle 12-01-2014 07:02 AM

Body lift easy,to put in? Will I need longer shocks etc thanks for any input

newguy 12-01-2014 07:15 AM

Body lift is easy just a little time consuming. list of lift kits, most come with shocks https://blazerforum.com/forum/liftin...it-list-16186/

64sschevelle 12-01-2014 10:19 AM

Any one with pics of a 2 door blazer with a body lift? Wondering how it looks with the gaps. Also no shocks needed for body lift? I didn't see any

newguy 12-01-2014 11:04 AM

dont need shocks for body lift

rexmburns 12-01-2014 01:21 PM

Just look around and you will find your answers!

goldnugget 12-03-2014 06:40 AM

I did the PA 2" body lift w/~31s(265/70/16). It is easy, but time consuming. I did it by myself on a Saturday.

Tires fill the gaps it will look good. Unless your speaking of the gap from the chassis to body. That is not bad either. It looks stupid with the lift and stock tires though. I think I have pictures I'll see if I can dig them up later.You may rub the back of the front fender while turning and hitting hard bumps like turning into lots. I smushed my fender back just a bit with a mallet and it doesn't hit any more even on hard hits. Also may have to space your front wheels out so you dont rub your chassis/sway bar while turning sharp. A lot of clearance problems depend on your wheel spacing. I notched my chassis and welded it back up(I wanted to keep my front wheels as far in as possible) to clear the tire and spaced out 5mm so I wouldn't hit the sway bar. If you use a spacer as well you will need longer studs. They are cheap and super easy to install and you dont need to remove the hub to do it. If you do an adapter you should prob go out at least 3/4" because you will turn into your chassis way before full lock. Just some things to think about...I thought it was just an easy body lift and tires, but it took a little extra tinkering to get it right. You'll see across the forum that even on identical builds you can run into clearance issues that the next guy may not have.


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