Clear Up Wheel Sizes and Back Spacing
#1
Clear Up Wheel Sizes and Back Spacing
I am hoping to get definitive information regarding stock, alternate Chevy( and other makes) wheel dimensions. I have not seen a complete post on this from my searches but have found many scared posts regarding IROCs, and BMW wheels and after market wheels etc.
I have recently been forced into deciding on and doing my lift and rim/tire combo decision as I had one of my factory tires blow out due to weather cracking from what I can tell. I got the truck (2000 jimmy SLT 4x4) as a fixer recently and have been trying to get it to pass smog holding out on tires. I knew they were starting to weather but clearly they are worse off than I thought and prefer to be safe driving this around till I get it to smog. I have the shackles for a shackle+tbar crank lift as well as have a Zone 2"body lift waiting to be installed but I am now waiting on a ODB memory retainer before I can do the body lift without having to clear SMOG tests.
My initial plan was to just get factory 235/75 tires on the factory rims and use those %80 of the time around town and highway, then put on my 33x12.50s from my jeep with wheel adapters when I go camping or light wheeling when I don't use the Jeep. I did find the main thread on lift vs tire size fitting with or without trimming etc., however I have not found posts including wheel dimensions vs rubbing / less trimming etc.
Right now while I wait on the saver tool I would like to know if I do get my tbar crank lift and the 2" BL done will I will able to run my 33x12.50 mounted on 15x10 with 3.75" backspacing including 1.25" wheeladapter/spaces or do blazers need trimming for any 33s just to fit, not even turn? I just need them to drive on the road while we get the below wheel info together and I get my wheels and probably 31s or 32s.
Can we get into one place the rim diameters, widths, and back spacing for each for the factories ( 2wd, 4wd, zr2) as well as the popular alternate model wheels (IROC, BMW, 2wd s10/extreme), and then also aftermarket with near backspacing?
Thank you
I have recently been forced into deciding on and doing my lift and rim/tire combo decision as I had one of my factory tires blow out due to weather cracking from what I can tell. I got the truck (2000 jimmy SLT 4x4) as a fixer recently and have been trying to get it to pass smog holding out on tires. I knew they were starting to weather but clearly they are worse off than I thought and prefer to be safe driving this around till I get it to smog. I have the shackles for a shackle+tbar crank lift as well as have a Zone 2"body lift waiting to be installed but I am now waiting on a ODB memory retainer before I can do the body lift without having to clear SMOG tests.
My initial plan was to just get factory 235/75 tires on the factory rims and use those %80 of the time around town and highway, then put on my 33x12.50s from my jeep with wheel adapters when I go camping or light wheeling when I don't use the Jeep. I did find the main thread on lift vs tire size fitting with or without trimming etc., however I have not found posts including wheel dimensions vs rubbing / less trimming etc.
Right now while I wait on the saver tool I would like to know if I do get my tbar crank lift and the 2" BL done will I will able to run my 33x12.50 mounted on 15x10 with 3.75" backspacing including 1.25" wheeladapter/spaces or do blazers need trimming for any 33s just to fit, not even turn? I just need them to drive on the road while we get the below wheel info together and I get my wheels and probably 31s or 32s.
Can we get into one place the rim diameters, widths, and back spacing for each for the factories ( 2wd, 4wd, zr2) as well as the popular alternate model wheels (IROC, BMW, 2wd s10/extreme), and then also aftermarket with near backspacing?
Thank you
#2
#3
Still would like different wheel widths and backspacing with different tire heights and widths, and where they rub exactly during street or off-road use. Specifically with a 2" BL and a 2-2.5" suspension lift as that is as far as I will go with the truck.
#4
I did see that post, however regarding the 33s for my application I just need to run them on the street for a bit. I assume all these posts are to get them mounted with no running on or off road. I am ok with rubbing frame and interior parts for the time being, I would just avoid uturns, I just know want to rub the outer fenders and damage anything that I wouldn't need to cut for 31s or 32s.
Still would like different wheel widths and backspacing with different tire heights and widths, and where they rub exactly during street or off-road use. Specifically with a 2" BL and a 2-2.5" suspension lift as that is as far as I will go with the truck.
Still would like different wheel widths and backspacing with different tire heights and widths, and where they rub exactly during street or off-road use. Specifically with a 2" BL and a 2-2.5" suspension lift as that is as far as I will go with the truck.
The not-so-good news is that with 33x12.5s on 10" wide rims I suspect you'll be hard against the fenders without even turning the wheels, both front and back. And with 3.75" of backspacing, 1.25" spacers, and the aforementioned 10" wide rims you will guaranteed not be able to turn without hitting both the front and back of the fenders. Even with 4" of lift (2" BL and 2" T-bar) I doubt you could turn without hitting the fenders. The outside edge of your rims will be 5" further out than stock (3" wider rim vs stock 7", and 2.5" backspacing when you combine the rims and spacers) plus the extra 2.5ish inches of tire that will be hanging over the lip of the rim vs a stock 235/75/15.
Last edited by El_Beautor; 01-08-2019 at 06:33 PM.
#5
The good news is that with such a low backspace setup vs stock you don't have to worry about rubbing on the frame.
The not-so-good news is that with 33x12.5s on 10" wide rims I suspect you'll be hard against the fenders without even turning the wheels, both front and back. And with 3.75" of backspacing, 1.25" spacers, and the aforementioned 10" wide rims you will guaranteed not be able to turn without hitting both the front and back of the fenders. Even with 4" of lift (2" BL and 2" T-bar) I doubt you could turn without hitting the fenders. The outside edge of your rims will be 5" further out than stock (3" wider rim vs stock 7", and 2.5" backspacing when you combine the rims and spacers) plus the extra 2.5ish inches of tire that will be hanging over the lip of the rim vs a stock 235/75/15.
The not-so-good news is that with 33x12.5s on 10" wide rims I suspect you'll be hard against the fenders without even turning the wheels, both front and back. And with 3.75" of backspacing, 1.25" spacers, and the aforementioned 10" wide rims you will guaranteed not be able to turn without hitting both the front and back of the fenders. Even with 4" of lift (2" BL and 2" T-bar) I doubt you could turn without hitting the fenders. The outside edge of your rims will be 5" further out than stock (3" wider rim vs stock 7", and 2.5" backspacing when you combine the rims and spacers) plus the extra 2.5ish inches of tire that will be hanging over the lip of the rim vs a stock 235/75/15.
#6
I'm running 33x10.50 on mine, 6" suspension lift.
4.5" backspacing on the rims.
I haven't tested for rubbing during flexing, but there's enough room all around the tire that I feel confident it wouldn't rub on the street.
Now, full lock rubbing, I don't know. I have the nearly the same width tire as rough country recommends for the lift kit I have, mine are 0.2" wider. Once I have an alignment done, I'll be able to tell about that
4.5" backspacing on the rims.
I haven't tested for rubbing during flexing, but there's enough room all around the tire that I feel confident it wouldn't rub on the street.
Now, full lock rubbing, I don't know. I have the nearly the same width tire as rough country recommends for the lift kit I have, mine are 0.2" wider. Once I have an alignment done, I'll be able to tell about that
#7
I'm running 33x10.50 on mine, 6" suspension lift.
4.5" backspacing on the rims.
I haven't tested for rubbing during flexing, but there's enough room all around the tire that I feel confident it wouldn't rub on the street.
Now, full lock rubbing, I don't know. I have the nearly the same width tire as rough country recommends for the lift kit I have, mine are 0.2" wider. Once I have an alignment done, I'll be able to tell about that
4.5" backspacing on the rims.
I haven't tested for rubbing during flexing, but there's enough room all around the tire that I feel confident it wouldn't rub on the street.
Now, full lock rubbing, I don't know. I have the nearly the same width tire as rough country recommends for the lift kit I have, mine are 0.2" wider. Once I have an alignment done, I'll be able to tell about that
Thanks
#8
15x8 on the rims
I'm going to take some better pic tomorrow when it's daylight. I just got the tires mounted and wheels bolted on a few hours ago.
Ive got a thread going in off roading, detailing out the lift install. I'll post pics there tomorrow evening
#9
I was trying to add a pic just now, it kept telling me I had reached my upload limit lol.
15x8 on the rims
I'm going to take some better pic tomorrow when it's daylight. I just got the tires mounted and wheels bolted on a few hours ago.
Ive got a thread going in off roading, detailing out the lift install. I'll post pics there tomorrow evening
15x8 on the rims
I'm going to take some better pic tomorrow when it's daylight. I just got the tires mounted and wheels bolted on a few hours ago.
Ive got a thread going in off roading, detailing out the lift install. I'll post pics there tomorrow evening
#10
What brand wheels are those the procomp 51s? What did they set you back and where did you end up getting them from. I and been looking around for more procomps like I have on my jeep that look just like those/and every other wagon wheel look -a-like haha.