Please Help! 88 Blazer S10 4x4 2.8 no power to fuel pump
#1
Please Help! 88 Blazer S10 4x4 2.8 no power to fuel pump
Hey everyone! I'm new to forum, so my apologies if this is answered somewhere & I couldn't find it.
I have an '88 S10 Blazer 4x4 2.8L, has been running fine for 2 yrs since I bought it used. It also has factory A/C. It has a replaced alternator, I had plugs & wires replaced last summer. Also replaced the oil pressure sending unit last summer as well.
A couple weeks ago some ******* broke into it, opened hood, & CUT out my battery to steal it! I have replaced the wires and connections that were cut out, but now it won't start. It turns over, but not firing up. We sprayed some starter fluid into the tbi, it starts for like 2-3 seconds, but won't stay running. After trying for quite some time, we did not smell any gas as we should have. A guy helping me said he didn't hear the fuel pump when key was turned on, so it should be replaced. I want to start with less expensive options 1st, so checked fuses. My ECMB was blown, so replaced it 1st. Still not starting. My next option is replacing the fuel pump relay, which I'm headed out to try now. I have 3 relays side-by-side on the driver side rail, so will locate the proper one to change (if anyone has pic of correct one, I would love to have it!).
If that doesn't work, what should I check next before determining that the only option left is the fp? I have read conflicting info online on next step, so thought it best to ask the experts here as I am certainly NOT one!
Thank you in advance for any/all help. Also, if you have any pics to assist me that would much appreciated as well, as the wiring diagrams are not as clear as I had hoped they would be!
Thanks! ~ Jeremy/88BlazerS104x4
I have an '88 S10 Blazer 4x4 2.8L, has been running fine for 2 yrs since I bought it used. It also has factory A/C. It has a replaced alternator, I had plugs & wires replaced last summer. Also replaced the oil pressure sending unit last summer as well.
A couple weeks ago some ******* broke into it, opened hood, & CUT out my battery to steal it! I have replaced the wires and connections that were cut out, but now it won't start. It turns over, but not firing up. We sprayed some starter fluid into the tbi, it starts for like 2-3 seconds, but won't stay running. After trying for quite some time, we did not smell any gas as we should have. A guy helping me said he didn't hear the fuel pump when key was turned on, so it should be replaced. I want to start with less expensive options 1st, so checked fuses. My ECMB was blown, so replaced it 1st. Still not starting. My next option is replacing the fuel pump relay, which I'm headed out to try now. I have 3 relays side-by-side on the driver side rail, so will locate the proper one to change (if anyone has pic of correct one, I would love to have it!).
If that doesn't work, what should I check next before determining that the only option left is the fp? I have read conflicting info online on next step, so thought it best to ask the experts here as I am certainly NOT one!
Thank you in advance for any/all help. Also, if you have any pics to assist me that would much appreciated as well, as the wiring diagrams are not as clear as I had hoped they would be!
Thanks! ~ Jeremy/88BlazerS104x4
#2
Just switch those 3 relays around. One is for a/c, one for the horn, and one for the fuel pump. If you swap em around and the horn doesnt work, then the relays junk. There is also a pink or oramge wire not plugged into anything in the same vicinity, this is a fuel pump relay bypass. Feed 12v direct from your battery into it and see if the pump works. If it doesnt, check the fuel pump ground located to the rear of the tank attached to the rearmost frame crossmember. If you clean that ground and it still doesnt work, then you need a fuel pump.
#4
Fuel Pump Relay changed, still won't start...
Hey guys, thanks for the answers & the pic is what I needed earlier! I replaced the front-most relay, and it was really fouled up. It now clicks as it should when I turn the key on, & now I hear what I think is the fuel pump whirring after I try cranking it over. It still will not stay running, however; I tried again with starter fluid down carb, will fire up about 2-3 seconds, then dies out again.
I got a new fuel filter to try as my next step. It is the larger in-line filter. However, I see conflicting info online as to the exact location of my fuel filter (it's dark now & I will check in the am). Some say it is on the frame under driver-side, others say it is actually located on the engine itself that seems fairly impossible to reach to change with 2 wrenches if that is the location. I read somewhere that for some reason, on the 88 2.8L TBI it is located on the engine itself.
If anyone has a pic for the exact location on an '88 S10 Blazer 4x4 2.8L TBI, it would be MUCH appreciated!
Thank you!
I got a new fuel filter to try as my next step. It is the larger in-line filter. However, I see conflicting info online as to the exact location of my fuel filter (it's dark now & I will check in the am). Some say it is on the frame under driver-side, others say it is actually located on the engine itself that seems fairly impossible to reach to change with 2 wrenches if that is the location. I read somewhere that for some reason, on the 88 2.8L TBI it is located on the engine itself.
If anyone has a pic for the exact location on an '88 S10 Blazer 4x4 2.8L TBI, it would be MUCH appreciated!
Thank you!
#6
Ok, thanks. I've read that it is in 2 different possible locations on an '88 S10 Blazer 4x4 2.8L TBI; some say on frame rail, some say on engine. I'm headed out today to search for it, but if it is on the engine block, is it possible for me to change myself without too much trouble? If so, does anyone have a step-by-step with pics that would be very helpful? It just doesn't seem like there is enough room to get wrenches in there to change it on the engine with messing up the fuel lines like I've also read can happen.
Any help is much appreciated!
Any help is much appreciated!
#10
Line Wrenches
They should always be used around metal lines to help keep from rounding off your line fittings. They can make all the difference. I generally break my lines loose with a line wrench and then finish taking them out with a regular wrench. Of course I put them back in with fingers first, run them in with a regular wrench, and then snug them with a line wrench.