What are the causes of the ABS light being illuminated? This happened about a year ago and went away by itself in a day or two. It has been on now for over a week. No DTC codes are present or pending.

My shoes on the rear are in good shape and the front disc pads appear to have plenty of life left in them.

 

A dirty or failing front wheel speed sensor can cause the ABS light to come on. The early design cannot be adjusted so you are left to just see if that is the problem. If you spin the wheel while having a DMM hooked to the WSS wires you should read 250-350mV-AC (must set the DMM to the mV-AC scale first).

 

Thanks for the info........If you are "empowered to do so, pls move this to the appropriate section of 'GEN TECH' or where it belongs.".
Sorry for posting in the wrong area. I should be used to using VBulletin by belonging to other forums and different areas of interest that use the same service!

Thanks Swartlkk!

BTW........I replaced my front pads today, (they were a little thin!), and the light was still on. I did not however check the rotation of the wheels for the sensor output. Maybe I need to re-check the shoes on the rear.

Lost my T-handle for doing shoes a few years ago..........guess I can revert back to 'Vice-Grips'...wide blade screw driver, and manual effort!

Again.......thanks for your help!!

My 95 Blazer is such an "In-Between" Model, I am not sure what kind of abortion I have! But, I LOVE IT!!

Either you, or one of the Mods pls move this to the correct thread.

 

"Lost my T-handle for doing shoes a few years ago..........guess I can revert back to 'Vice-Grips'...wide blade screw driver, and manual effort!"


A 10 Millimeter Allen Head will work just fine. I have one that mounts on a 3/8" drive ratchet, in fact you can goto Autozone or your local parts store and buy them in a set that has all the popular sizes of hex heads. It makes life a lot easier when taking the calipers and pads off.

 

Thnx for the reply, but my problem resides with the ABS light being on,

Meinieke wants the "Minimum $85/Hr Labor charge just to scan my Puter!!

If I had a pic of the sensor wiring harness inside the engine compartment, I could further diagnose the problem, but haven't found squat. I guess I could go to AllData. com for $29.95 for a 1Yr. sub, but that just Pisses me off.

 

go to an autozone or any auto parts store and they should read your code for free. as far as the wiring harnness goes, i always thought the sensor was in the hub and the wire connected to that sensor would also be coming out of the hub but i could be wrong.

 

Good try M.............but AZ.....(Autozone) does not have an ABS Brake Scanner, at least not in NC.
The Actron CP9449 will perform the task, but it's costly!. I dont want to spend $130-199 for a one-time use instrument.

 

Maybe your truck will mess up again and you'll be able to use the instrument again??

Do you have "advance auto" stores there? They've got the tools to scan and it's free.

 

The wire just comes out of the hub and runs up to a connector on the frame rail. Have you even looked at it?

There are pictures of the hub assembly posted in other threads on this subject. There is also a description of how to test the sensor.

 

If anything makes matters worse, I just broke my right Knee-cap yesterday, so I won't be troubleshooting much of anything in the next few weeks!!

I am really gonna be PO'd if it turns out to be the Control Module/Pump instead of a Wheel Sensor. If I can get my two sons together to 'Bleed the brakes' with the new brake fluid in there, maybe the pump pressure will work correctly..........just wishing!
Until I am able to read all the sensors, I won't know Squat!!

I really do appreciate all the helpful suggestions guys.................It's a Bitch to not have the Diagnostic tools to work on the later model cars now!!!
I grew up maintaining late 40's to Mid 70's Chevy's and an occasional FORD! No special tools were required then!!