99 LT 4door... 120,000 miles.. No pump noise=no start...Bang on bottom of tank==pump noise==start & go. Might run good for a week or two; then same procedure again. I'm too old for this sh-t; it hurts getting up and down to slap the tank...

Question:
Local parts stores quoate me from $255 to $385.00 I can't afford a $255.00 pump!!! I find many on internet from $50.00 to $250.00 Some look good for About $80.00 with free shipment & 12 month waranty, and young neighbor say's he will help me install a pump.

Anyone have first hand knowledge regarding these aftermarket pumps?

Many hours searching this forum; many hours on internet searcing pump prices.

Any recomendations appreciated

 

i wouldnt put after market pumps in these trucks

1st they dont last long (Lesson learned)
2nd When my dad had a after market pump the engine use to have a little shake
3rd it sucks to drop the tank more then once in a year =P (my opinion)

We do recommend using delco or delphi pumps yes it can be expensive but worth it

 

I'm sorry.. but I doubt you searched this subject for hours because every single thread about fuel pump failure on here since I've been here has the same warning in it.. if you put in anything but Delphi or Ac Delco you will probably end up doing it twice.
So let's dispense with any BS about that, okay?
Gonna tell you right now, AIrtex SUX.. i put one on my Tbird. Pump will probably be fine for a while {cause it drives a 40 lb system not 60} but the sender drives me crazy.. shows 1/8 increments.

Whatever.. take your pick. There's a guy on ebay selling store buyouts, a pump he labels MU 85 which is ACD's # for $59, though he doesnt say it's AC Delco
FUEL PUMP (99-01 S10 BLAZER 4.3 LITER 4-DOOR MU85)D | eBay
Note it has the old style connector on it. And no tank press sensor

Another guy has the AC Delco MU 85 with new style connector {but no mention if it has the wire mod harness with it} for $179

ACDelco MU85 Fuel Pump Module Assembly MU1733 E3992M | eBay

If you INSIST on buying cheap as possible at least give yourself some odds of being happy with it.

Here's my incomplete 'war and peace' DIY document on changing the pump, and what to watch out for when dropping the tank.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...s-fixed-63397/

BTW: My problem was an open inside the Truck's harness connector.. which is no doubt why they changed it.

 

First, let me thank each of you for your imput.
Secondly, doubting my truthfulness is both bothersome and resented!!!

I had already found, read, and printed your "Hit Bump.. Fuel Pump dies. Fixed" thread, and look forward to your completion. I found it in one of the 18 pages of search that you doubt I did.

I had already found and placed on my eBay "watch list" the pumps you refer to, and I have ask each seller, to identify the pump mfg.

You see, I actually have two (2) seperate pump problems.... My old heart pump malfunctions frequently, and is very costly to maintain, and now my old truck pump is acting up. I'm just trying to keep both going for 3 or 4 more years.

Sorry to have troubled you.

 

I didnt doubt you did the search. The only thing I called bs was that you still wondered about the aftermarket suppliers.

There's opinions and there's facts. Here's the facts that count:

The 4.3L fuel system was designed for peak economy both to produce {cheap} and to drive the first 100k miles.
It operates at nominal 60 lb pressure. Higher the pressure the better the atomization thus fuel economy.
Reliable Bosch injection systems operate at about 40 lbs pressure. and that's what almost all in-tank pumps are designed for.
GM primary suppliers Delphi {the OEM} and AC Delco understand the need for extra mfg precision. Wells/Airtex knows but long as their pumps last a year they dont GAF!
- Not only that but the 4.3L system is one of few EFI's subject to vapor lock because of the lack of fuel rail and use of in-plenum tubes. That's why leakdown rate is very important. Thus NEEDS a GOOD pump check valve to keep the fuel in plenum from vaporizing.
In Fords, if it holds pressure a few seconds, that's good enough and no one ever notices a bad check valve, it's just an extra second or so of crank time.

Non-brand pumps are simply Chinese knockoffs and they will work for limited time in just about anything.

I hadnt changed a FP in 15 years of driving hi-mile fords for over est 300kmiles. Then did two in two months .. one in Tbird got noisy. And the expected one in the Bravada. I did my homework before I even bought it.

Warranty doesnt mean diddly when it comes to generic brand pumps, becuase there's always the improper use/installation get out clause. And a little research reveals that in high labor time DIY's most dont apply for the warranty anyway. They just want it behind them.

Final note: Dropping the tank is a supreme PITA. I thought the TBird was bad because the exhaust has to be removed first, but the Blazer is worse because of the clearance and access issues

IOW, you do not want to do it again soon.. especially with winter coming on.
Good Luck.
BTW, if I had to do it again, I'd buy one of those Delco rebuild kits.. but I'd have been pissed because the specific fail was in the connector.

 

I agree, don't waste your time and money on aftermarket stuff. The aftermarket one year warranty basically means you'll be in there again in less than a year doing the job again. Granted, you might not have to pay for the pump again, but you'll need to do the job again, and again and again. Get an AC Delco or Delphi and call it done. If you find one online, make certain that it specifically states that the manufacturer is "AC Delco" or "Delphi" and has the official AC Delco or Delphi logo on the box, and doesn't just say it's an AC Delco or Delphi part number.