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2000 GMC jimmy SLT 4.3 crank no start HELP!!

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Old 10-31-2016, 03:08 PM
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Default 2000 GMC jimmy SLT 4.3 crank no start HELP!!

heres what ive done so far:4
Last yr replaced the following:
Upper and lower intake gaskets,head gaskets, new starter,plugs, wires,cap, cam sensor, crank sensor, new coil, new icm and fuel pump and filter.

This yr I had a hard start with a crnk/cam shaft correlation code and alternator went out. Replaced Alt and new distributor,cap,rotor and cam sensor and timing chain. Placed Dist in at the marks of the old dist and no start, replaced timing chain, engine TDC placed new dist in with the mark on the 6 of the dist housing and still no start, gave a crnk code, replced crank sensor, still no start.
Checked voltage to coil,ICM, crank ,sensor all have volts.
Checked all grounds and re-did them. still no start. Checked voltage to ignition switch and i have power.

scanned and it keeps giving me P0463 fuel level sensor circuit high voltage
cleared code no start and thats the only code that pops up.
Could that P0463 code cause a no start condition?
truck will crank but no start. this is my DD and I need it running asap.
any and all help is greatly appreciated thanks
 
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:09 PM
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One suggestion, it is not uncommon for someone to put their distributor in on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. Both have #1 TDC in the same place but the engine is 180 out if installed on exhaust stroke. Also, you wouldn't be the first to have their spark plug wires installed incorrectly. Double check at your dizzy cap. #3 goes closest to the front of the truck, then #1.
 
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:24 AM
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thanks for the response Rock, ill be rechecking everything today.
I asked a local shop about this and the guy had a v8 with a vortec in it and it was doing the same thing, gave him a couple days to figure his out, turns out it was the crank sensor wasnt seated all the way in. Im gonna double check all this today. will update later. Thanks
 
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:45 AM
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I was able to get a better spark tester yesterday also found out that the lil rubber boot that was supposed to be on the crank sensor somehow fell off and i didnt have a good connection there, fixed that now i have spark all the way to the distributor cap and thats where it ends, no spark to plugs. I'm goin to redo the TDC one more time and retest the spark to ALL plugs. Yesterday I didnt get spark to the #1 and #2 so I assumed it was the cap and put the old cap on with the old rotor and a slight adjustment to the rotor point and i got back fire. Will update later when finished. I'm goin on 2 weeks w/o a car and i need to get out of the house soon lol
 
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Old 11-02-2016, 12:23 PM
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Sounds like you've either got the timing chain or the distributor in wrong. Hasn't run since it has been apart, right? That should tell you that you have installed something incorrectly.

Check compression with a tester on any cylinder to see if timing chain is in right. If OK compression, better review distributor install procedures and try again. Did you have it TDC#1 or TDC on another cylinder? Only every other revolution of the crankshaft is TDC#1 - a 4-stroke engine.
 

Last edited by LesMyer; 11-02-2016 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:01 PM
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Correct, hasn't ran since its been apart, rechecked timing before put everything back together, TDC on #1.
Redid TDC #1 today dropped the new dist with all new cap, rotor and cam sensor, only getting intermittent spark so i think its the plug wires, last night i had the same result.
gonna recheck spark to the plugs this afternoon.
 
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Nativewayz
Correct, hasn't ran since its been apart, rechecked timing before put everything back together, TDC on #1.
Redid TDC #1 today dropped the new dist with all new cap, rotor and cam sensor, only getting intermittent spark so i think its the plug wires, last night i had the same result.
gonna recheck spark to the plugs this afternoon.
What exactly did you do to determine TDC#1 - then what marks on the balancer did you line up with what, with the distributor rotor pointing to what? How did you adjust where your rotor was pointing - the factory hold down is non-adjustable. I know you don't believe there is a problem here, but please indulge me before we go further down the road. I haven't heard the magic words that convinces me the distributor is in right just yet! You did say that you put a timing chain in this engine, correct? Has it run since the timing chain?
 
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:37 PM
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Took out plug#1 rotated crank manually, put phillip head screwdriver in cylinder #1 till it backed out all the way, timing marks on balance line up to both marks on top and bottom. Dropped in dist pointing to the mark INSIDE the dist housing stamped "6". made a small adjustment to the point by bending it up just a li for better spark pulled the tab in the middle of the rotor up a lil for better connection to the cap.
Hasn't ran since I put timing chain in no, BUT I had this same problem when I just put the new distributor in and after. Wasn't starting so thats when i did the timing chain, i thought maybe my timing chain was loose, its got 150k miles and im the second owner so i figured it was time.
I just tried reusing my old cap rotor and cam sensor and still no spark tp the plugs, i have air and fuel just no spark to the plugs. Plugs and wires were bought last yr around this same time for a tune up.
The way it sounds now is like im getting a spark on one cylinder.
New dist, cap rotor and sensor are all Duralast gold, I've read plenty that some dont work with these motors but idk if thats the case either.
Check power to my sensor and its good so could it be just the cap?
or cap and wires??
 
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:09 PM
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By using the Phillips head alone, there is a chance you are 180 out and you installed the distributor on the exhaust stroke. The #1 piston will be in exactly the same spot (all the way up). You have to feel for compression coming out when you are nearing TDC. Then put the screwdriver in. Also, insure you do not back up if you go past TDC. Start over. Sounds like you might actually be a BDC (even though the piston is at the top of it's stroke.
 
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:21 PM
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Also, use something like a straw instead of a screwdriver so you won't inadvertently do any damage to the cylinder or walls. One other thing, if you have a vacuum gauge (that reads PSI and HG) probably the best way to find TDC.You tube videos on how to do it.

P.S. There is a slight compression on the exhaust stroke also, but near what there is on the compression stroke go past TDC twice with your finger over the #1 hole and you'll pick up on it.
 

Last edited by rockp2; 11-02-2016 at 04:28 PM.


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