oh and this little gem too, i assume the oil fill cap should be on the passenger side with a neck. It's on the driver side with no neck under the air intake tube. would this be a good indication that the valve covers are on backwards?

 

I cant say 100% on the valve covers being on backwards. On my 93 with the 4.3 (obviously not the same but still) its on the drivers side and has the neck.
I have always thought it was on the drivers side (the fill)

 

Hmmm this has peaked my interest. i guess off to the pic-a-part tomorrow to get some reference from a 1999. it sucks because there are very few s10's in my scrap yards but tons of blazers so if this s10 is picked over which it probably is cause i've been ripping it apart not paying attention to the engine bay i won't have any reference.

the way it is not there isn't a way to put oil in it without removing the intake i highly doubt that is a correct install lol

 

also found a 2004 double din dash bezel today for $50 seems like a sold deal?

 

bezel was a bust. broke into 3 sad pieces so they could get the hvac controller out of the dash :/

 

WELL the S10 is pising me off. took the plenum cleaned the poppets. moved poppet cyl 4 to 3 (middle cylinders on each side) moved the plug wire from four to 2 (center to front passenger side) after i got it all back together. my cylinder misfire changed from P0304 to P0302 because my brain was so excited that the truck started after i put it back together I ordered a spider from an 03 blazer from a scrap yard because i thought those were the poppets i swapped. just now i realized that the plug wire was the issue. It's raining outside but i want to fix this truck. i went out took the wire off my blazer and put it on the s10. ran the truck and now P0304 again!

i havent done a leak down yet, but there is what sounds to be a very loud lifter for 5 seconds on cold startup then goes away and is just the slight shake from a misfire. ASSUMING the compression is good where should i go from here. I havent swapped the cap from my blazer yet but thats all that really could be left other then no/bad compression right?

 

SOOOOO the S10:

got a white sonoma tailgate and put it on there yay!

found the various missing bits, antenna, hood spring, license plate light housing.

the battery drain was the oem factory radio that had a shorted logic board, replaced with after market radio. now it holds a charge

valve covers were on backwards - oil baffle broke off due to improper location got lodged under the rocker smashed to bits but not before it bent the rocker and pushrod. so went to the scrap yard and got the pushrod, rocker, and valve covers.

installed MPFI injection spider, new upper plenum gaskets, valve cover gaskets (FELPRO). Replaced the upper radiator hose and oil cooler lines.

fired it up and it was still doing the same crap minus the loud clacking of the pushrod and rocker but still too much valvetrain noise for my comfort and P0300. put the truck on the back burning because I needed some help checking the distributor by getting it to TDC on the compression stroke. before my dad could get over to help i decided to take the cap and rotor off of my blazer again and put it on the S10. Guess what! truck runs near perfect. cleared the codes. almost instantly P0304 came up. moved the wire to cyl 2 cleared the code almost instantly p0302 came up. so bad wire waiting for those to get here still.

HVAC no fan at all. grabbed the relay thats on the firewall at pic a part. i then had a fan on max only. so i replaced the resistor, now i have a working fan. The a/c doesn't work. compressor doesn't even make an attempt to run. the low pressure side reads 0 so i'm going to change the dryer and orifice tube as long as it's empty before i vacuum test it. hopefully the compressor is good but 0 pressure so it won't even try to engage.

I have to find a 98+ door to replace 97 door that the special PO put on the truck making it pretty much useless. then i have to get it keyed alike. since they didn't swap the actual handle to the truck and just left the 97 lock in the door. so 2 keys are required unfortunately i don't have the 97 key so i have to climb through.

This truck is growing on me once the tail lights disappear into the horizon after i sell it i may miss it a little bit.


Meanwhile my blazer:
the leaf spring bolt is still stuck in the shackle and once I'm done with the s10 i start operation cut off wheel!
then i still have to do various other things and the upper control arms. have owned it for a few months now and drove it once. getting a little frustrated with my lack of time to work on this stuff. when i have time i make a ton of headway for a guy just guessing and searching forums for answers

 

Fuel pump question. Blazer has always been a bit of a pain to start. The fuel gauge had a mind of its own bouncing about a 1/4 of a tank. I know my old jimmy did this a little bit but not to this extent. Well now the fuel gauge is dead and the low fuel light is on I know it has about 3/4 of a tank. Cause it was reading that seconds before it died. So I assume the sending unit crapped out. In addition if I let the pump prime then try to start it it won't start. If I turn the key wait a second and start it while it's still priming it starts fine. Fuel pressure gauge reads 58psi while priming 55psi after priming stops. 52psi while running. Pressure drops to about 51psi if I just prime the pump and let it sit for 5 min. Since all of these readings are about 3-4psi low off of correct I originally assumed it was the gauge just reading low. Now I'm starting to think the pump is actually dying. The fuel filter is new, and I don't have any major pressure loss after sitting so I assume the FPR and pump check valve are fine.

Is my thought process correct here. Should I order a new acdelco mu1733 pump (4dr blazer)

 

Before you spend money, check this thread and post all 4 readings. We can help you analyze them: https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...eakdown-88305/

 

Appreciated, long read basically at the same point. Truck starts as long as the pump is still priming.

Prime pressure is 58psi - will start
Not priming pressure 55 psi - won't start
Running pressure - 52 psi
Pressure after 10 min - 51psi

So based on that in addition to my fuel gauge in dash reading 0, fuel pressure regulator in manifold is good, pump check valve is good, filter is new within last 200 miles. That leaves a bad sending unit and failing pump. Also tested the gauge on my s10 it reads

65 psi priming
62 psi not priming
57 psi running
56 psi sitting for 10 min