need help p1345 code
#22
In theory, yes. In reality, only you know if you did it right Bottom line: The distributor MUST be installed when #1 piston is on TDC of compression stroke. If not, it might not start at all, and if it does, it will run very poorly.... backfire, misfire, run extremely rough, stalling etc etc.
On a side note, have you checked fuel pressure and leakdown? It's possible there's more than one problem going on.
On a side note, have you checked fuel pressure and leakdown? It's possible there's more than one problem going on.
#23
Yes ive done a fuel pressure check. everything checked out ok. I have a question why would the rotor not line up with the 6 when the balancer marks were inline? i ran better when it was about 90 degrees off. when i took out dizzy and installed properly (maybe) it doesnt run at all?
#24
Something's messed up, we're just trying to figure out what it is. The distributor has been out, and it must be meshed correctly with the cam gear before we can move on. If everything is lined up properly, it should run right, if not, there's something else messed up. You have the advantage of being there with the vehicle, I have to rely on you for the "hands on" stuff. Something like the blind leading the sighted
When a piston is going up on the compression stroke, both valves are closed. When the pistion is going up on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is open. You can use this to your advantage in determining which stroke the cylinder is on. If you remove the spark plug and crank the engine over, you can hear the difference in the air rushing out of the spark plug hole when you crank it over. It is noticeably stronger on the compression stroke. It's a matter of you timing the sound and stopping the starter just short of TDC, and bring it up manually the rest of the way. It takes a little practice, but once you try it a few times, you'll figure it out.
EDIT: We'll get back to the fuel pressure later, and after that, camshaft retard needs to be checked and adjusted.
When a piston is going up on the compression stroke, both valves are closed. When the pistion is going up on the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is open. You can use this to your advantage in determining which stroke the cylinder is on. If you remove the spark plug and crank the engine over, you can hear the difference in the air rushing out of the spark plug hole when you crank it over. It is noticeably stronger on the compression stroke. It's a matter of you timing the sound and stopping the starter just short of TDC, and bring it up manually the rest of the way. It takes a little practice, but once you try it a few times, you'll figure it out.
EDIT: We'll get back to the fuel pressure later, and after that, camshaft retard needs to be checked and adjusted.
Last edited by Captain Hook; 03-17-2013 at 05:48 PM.
#25
Just went out and got the dizzy in correctly for sure. Still wont crank. Sorry if my questions are confusing but i was asking why the the rotor wasnt line up properly when i first checked the mark on balancer? this was before i ever pulled the dizzy. it ran then it just spit sputered and backfired.
#26
There are only 3 things that could cause that:
1. The distributor teeth jumped on the camshaft, which you mentioned that the teeth looked fine.
2. The outer ring of the vibration dampener slipped on the rubber insert. This would cause the marks to be incorrect, and would explain why the distributor did not point to the "6", but it does not explain why it was misfiring and backfiring.
3. The timing chain jumped.
1. The distributor teeth jumped on the camshaft, which you mentioned that the teeth looked fine.
2. The outer ring of the vibration dampener slipped on the rubber insert. This would cause the marks to be incorrect, and would explain why the distributor did not point to the "6", but it does not explain why it was misfiring and backfiring.
3. The timing chain jumped.
#28
The only way I know of is to lay it side by side with a "known good" one and compare where the timing marks are in relation to the keyway.
Edit: This shows the keyway and the rubber insulator: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-2537-594-181.aspx
Edit: This shows the keyway and the rubber insulator: http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-2537-594-181.aspx
Last edited by Captain Hook; 03-17-2013 at 07:36 PM.
#30
Yes. At TDC of both the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke, both valves are closed. The way to tell if you're on the exhaust stroke, is to watch the exhaust valve while rotating the crankshaft clockwise: Just before all 4 of the timing marks line up, the exhaust valve will close. Rotate the crankshaft the last couple of degrees until the marks are lined up. You are now at TDC of the exhaust stroke. Rotate the crankshaft one revolution clockwise until all 4 of the timing marks line up again. You are now at TDC of the compression stroke, do not move the crankshaft until the distributor is installed.
Install the distributor so the rotor points as close as possible to the "6" on the distributor housing when it is fully seated against the intake manifold. It may not line up perfectly with the "6". If it doesn't, it might be one tooth off in one direction or the other. One tooth will line the "6" up closer than the other, use whichever tooth puts the rotor closest to the "6".
This link will help you visualize what happens: http://weblogs.asp.net/rajbk/pages/s...demo-page.aspx
Install the distributor so the rotor points as close as possible to the "6" on the distributor housing when it is fully seated against the intake manifold. It may not line up perfectly with the "6". If it doesn't, it might be one tooth off in one direction or the other. One tooth will line the "6" up closer than the other, use whichever tooth puts the rotor closest to the "6".
This link will help you visualize what happens: http://weblogs.asp.net/rajbk/pages/s...demo-page.aspx
Last edited by Captain Hook; 03-24-2013 at 04:35 PM.