remote oil line replacement
#1
remote oil line replacement
Hey All,
Well, I'm dealing with a pretty serious oil leak again from the lines between the engine and oil filter, as well as some weeping from the lines to the radiator/cooler. This after having new OE lines and all related gaskets/seals replaced. Frustrated just starts to describe my feelings on this.
SO, I salvaged the old set of lines, and recall reading about other fixes owners have used to replace the lines. I was considering maybe picking up some of the aftermarket braided hose, and using compression fittings attach that to the metal ends of the OE lines. I figure that has got to be as good if not better, than the OE crimped connection, which I've read about a fair amount of failures on the forum.
Think this is a solution that can work? I know some have custom hydraulic hoses made for their applications, but I'd rather find a way to solve it on my own if possible. Would like to hear your thoughts.
Well, I'm dealing with a pretty serious oil leak again from the lines between the engine and oil filter, as well as some weeping from the lines to the radiator/cooler. This after having new OE lines and all related gaskets/seals replaced. Frustrated just starts to describe my feelings on this.
SO, I salvaged the old set of lines, and recall reading about other fixes owners have used to replace the lines. I was considering maybe picking up some of the aftermarket braided hose, and using compression fittings attach that to the metal ends of the OE lines. I figure that has got to be as good if not better, than the OE crimped connection, which I've read about a fair amount of failures on the forum.
Think this is a solution that can work? I know some have custom hydraulic hoses made for their applications, but I'd rather find a way to solve it on my own if possible. Would like to hear your thoughts.
#2
I just used tranny line and regular clamps...been on there for years and still dry. Cost 20.00
There is a how to floating arouns the net...cant remeber the site. But it is easy to do. I was able to leave the alum end inplace while i swapped out the rubber portions. I used a drummel to carefully cut the oem pressed fittings off. Then slide on the tranny hose and clamps. Piece of cake.
There is a how to floating arouns the net...cant remeber the site. But it is easy to do. I was able to leave the alum end inplace while i swapped out the rubber portions. I used a drummel to carefully cut the oem pressed fittings off. Then slide on the tranny hose and clamps. Piece of cake.
#3
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Posts: n/a
Not sure but I think this is the one warthog is speaking of.
Repair your leaky oil cooler lines!! - S-SeriesForum.com
Repair your leaky oil cooler lines!! - S-SeriesForum.com
#4
Not sure but I think this is the one warthog is speaking of.
Repair your leaky oil cooler lines!! - S-SeriesForum.com
Repair your leaky oil cooler lines!! - S-SeriesForum.com
Question: How hard is it to get to the engine side of the hoses on a '96? I had to use a fairly long extension to reach the bolt on my '89, but otherwise no problem. We're wondering about the '96.
#5
that was a great link on repairing those lines spittybays thanks a bunch...
#6
I just used tranny line and regular clamps...been on there for years and still dry. Cost 20.00
There is a how to floating arouns the net...cant remeber the site. But it is easy to do. I was able to leave the alum end inplace while i swapped out the rubber portions. I used a drummel to carefully cut the oem pressed fittings off. Then slide on the tranny hose and clamps. Piece of cake.
There is a how to floating arouns the net...cant remeber the site. But it is easy to do. I was able to leave the alum end inplace while i swapped out the rubber portions. I used a drummel to carefully cut the oem pressed fittings off. Then slide on the tranny hose and clamps. Piece of cake.
#7
If the connection at the engine is not leaking, there's no sense in removing the rear half of the line assembly. You can pull the fan shrouds and fan clutch off and get right at the crimp connections. Don't know as I'd trust my engine to hose clamps though, if one lets loose at 70mph, it'll barf the oil out in a heartbeat! Hydraulic compression fittings and hose is good for 1500psi no problem.
#8
I did mine with fuel line and hose clamps. It made me kinda nervous, though. I put two clamps on the end of each line, though, and so far it's been great. Almost a year, now, and not a single drop of leaked oil.
#9
I just used tranny line and regular clamps...been on there for years and still dry. Cost 20.00
There is a how to floating arouns the net...cant remeber the site. But it is easy to do. I was able to leave the alum end inplace while i swapped out the rubber portions. I used a drummel to carefully cut the oem pressed fittings off. Then slide on the tranny hose and clamps. Piece of cake.
There is a how to floating arouns the net...cant remeber the site. But it is easy to do. I was able to leave the alum end inplace while i swapped out the rubber portions. I used a drummel to carefully cut the oem pressed fittings off. Then slide on the tranny hose and clamps. Piece of cake.
Sir,
I've been reading on doing this to my Blazer. I just replaced the lines a little over a year ago, you guessed it, leaking again. Some place I read said to use the NAPA oil cooler line and not the tranny line. I see you used tranny line. What's the deal or the difference? Also, my line is 13/32" and not 1/2". 3/8" line seems to make a better, tighter fit. If "mandatory" I'll use the NAPA oil cooler hose vs tranny line. What's your thoughts on this?
#10
I used ear clamps on mine almost 3 years ago. Replaced the hose with hydraulic hose from the local Fluid Power shop. I trust them more than the usual gear style clamps.