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fuel pump not getting power

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  #11  
Old 01-11-2012, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by millford
Try replacing the fuel pump relay,$20 worth a shot,also could be the contact in the relay receptacle this was my problem .
The bad contact in fuse block is a good point..USUALLY burnt looking relay pin is a giveaway.. but dont go buying relays till you swap them, first.
 
  #12  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:04 PM
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ok guys i tried everything you guys mentioned there is absolutely no power getting to the pump what so ever could a bad battery cause this? or would it be an inline fuse some were? if my model has one or an bad ground? im just stumped on what it could be.
 

Last edited by chevyboy90; 01-11-2012 at 03:12 PM.
  #13  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by chevyboy90
ok guys i tried everything you guys mentioned there is absolutely no power getting to the pump what so ever could a bad battery cause this? or would it be an inline fuse some were? if my model has one or an bad ground? im just stumped on what it could be.
Sorry we've had too many people on here ignore what they either dont understand or think is too much trouble.... does the fuel pump relay click on key-on or not?
Assuming 97 up, should click at key on and again 2 seconds later
 
  #14  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:23 PM
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yes i did hear it click 2 times and 2 more times im really confused with it.
 

Last edited by chevyboy90; 01-11-2012 at 03:34 PM.
  #15  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:48 PM
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key on: FP relay on.. 2 sec.. fp relay off.
That 2 seconds is when you would see 12v at the gray wire on the connector. That and, unless something else is bad, during cranking. Just having the key on, you would not see 12v at that connector because the relay turned back off.
The PCM turns the Fuel pump on for two seconds to prime the system when you turn the key on. some say: also when you turn key off
When the Crank position sensor puts out a pulse, -running or cranking- the PCM also sets the FP relay on and it will stay on 2 seconds after a pulse.

I suggest you carefully locate pin 87 in the Fuse block and ohm it to frame or battery negative with the pump connecotr on. If it's below 6 ohms, then you have a full path through the fuel pump to ground. And if the FP isnt running with the relay back in and the pin isnt burnt. bad pump. If there isnt a path, could be open anywhere else in theat circuit from that pin 87 to ground point atop the rear crossmember.

Is there anything else out of the ordinary?
 

Last edited by pettyfog; 01-11-2012 at 03:53 PM.
  #16  
Old 01-11-2012, 03:56 PM
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not that i know of this is the only thing ive ever had wrong with the truck 2nd time its happened in almost a year now i could have it wired wrong could you tell me which wire goes to which? and if theres a ground connected from the tank to the truck frame?
 
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Old 01-11-2012, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chevyboy90
not that i know of this is the only thing ive ever had wrong with the truck 2nd time its happened in almost a year now i could have it wired wrong could you tell me which wire goes to which? and if theres a ground connected from the tank to the truck frame?
Like I just posted and as the diagram shows but does not locate..
If there isnt a path, could be open anywhere else in theat circuit from that pin 87 to ground point atop the rear crossmember.
Which >> G 402<<is right above the rear diff.

If it worked okay for a while and your fuel gage did too.. without being flaky, you probably wired it right..who knows. But you have to follow the steps.
 
  #18  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:05 PM
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best way to diagnose the wires is the way pettyfog has stated

do you have a multimeter ? id buy one there always good to have


btw Nice sig pettyfog (Thumbs Up)
 
  #19  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:17 PM
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ok what is G402? sorry i dont know much about cars i mean i can work on them just dont know somethings.
 
  #20  
Old 01-11-2012, 04:21 PM
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oh its the ground ok what would this ground look like can you tell me? would it run from the neck of the gas lid to the frame?
 


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