Ok, well no one had any wisdom to give on the other thread so quick question. I read the fuel pump will cut out if there is no oil pressure, is there anything that would keep an engine from starting if there wasn't pressure in the transmission? I broke one of the remote lines so it's dumping some fluid when it cranks, would this cause it not to start for some reason? Any advice on my other thread is appreciated!!!

 

Nope fix it and move on to next problem

 

lack of oil pressure will not shut off the fuel pump..... unless the engine seizes up and quits running. ~ 2 seconds later, the fuel pump will shut off.

 

Thanks! Any ideas on the spider possibly being bad and leaking fuel into the engine, effectively flooding it causing a no start? I have spark at the plugs, and when I pull them there coated heavily with fuel, I don't see any reason why I wouldn't be getting air either. I don't have a fuel pressure tester or any diagnostic equip really, other than a cheap obd2 scanner. It does read some live data but I don't know all the jargon yet :/

 

Spark must be a good hot blue, not orange, spark at each plug.

You'll need to check fuel pressure and leakdown to determine if the injector assy is leaking. Most auto parts stores rent or loan testers for free, and sell them for ~$40.
When you have the tester, we can explain how to use it. What year, make, model & engine do you have?

 

I have a '98 chevy blazer LT, 4.3, automatic trans. The blazer is a vin W, the engine is a vin x, we swapped the oil pan, pump, and remote lines. I just swapped the engine but it won't start :/

 

"W" and "X" PCM's are different, not interchangeable. You will need to use the PCM from the X engine, along with the engine to PCM wire harness. The X engine does not have an EGR valve, along with some other changes. The PCM must be flashed at a GM dealer. The crankshaft position sensor relearn must be done. Camshaft retard must be checked and adjusted. They can both be done on a high end scan tool, or at a GM dealer.

Does it have a blue spark at each plug while cranking? Does the fuel pump activate for ~ 2 seconds when you initially turn the igniton to the run position? Have you checked fuel pressure and leakdown?

 

I have spark, I think it's good but that's from my guy and not from experience. As far as the fuel pump goes, sometimes it primes for a couple seconds sometimes more like a while minuet??? Does it continue to prom until it reaches the proper psi and if so does that mean my spider is bad and it's just dumping fuel into the cylinders for a minuet?

The PCM, are you speaking from first hand experience? Any other info/proof an what is needed to do this swap is very much appreciated!! I wondered that but the junkyard assured, and reassured me it would work! If it doesn't I'm going to... Well , we won't go there!

I have not done a leak down test , closest parts store that will loan tools is 45 mins away so I can't just hop in my car at the moment.

 

When you initially turn the ignition to the run position, (don't crank the starter), the fuel pump primes for ~ 2 seconds and shuts off. During this time the injectors do not open. The "X" engine does not have poppet valves, but if an injector pintle is not sealing, it will squirt fuel into the combustion chamber. Performing a fuel pressure and leakdown test will determine if that's a possibility.

The PCM's are different, no question about it. They are physically different, and programmed differently. As mentioned earlier, the X engine does not have an EGR valve. The W engine EGR valve is all electronic and is controlled by the PCM. That alone means the pin out on the PCM is different, requiring a new engine harness. The lack of the EGR valve on the X engine requires ignition timing advance to be different, (less advance). When the EGR valve opens, ignition timing can be advanced farther without experiencing spark knock, (detonation). Without an EGR valve, IF you get it running, it will either spark knock like crazy, or power will be substantially reduced from the knock sensors retarding the timing. Either way, if you use the W PCM on the X engine, the SES light will come on, guaranteed. Another difference is the design of the catalytic converters: W engine has one, and because the X does not have an EGR valve, it needs two converters. If you run it with only one, it will have a melt down, literally

You'll need a PCM and harness from a S/T body vehicle, 2003 through 2005. The donor vehicle must have the same transfer case, same transmission, same axle ratio's, same wheels/tires. The crankshaft position sensor relearn must also be performed on the donor PCM after it's installed. Camshaft retard must also be checked and adjusted.

After you install the X PCM and wiring, the PCM must be re-programmed. It is programmed to the VIN of the vehicle, but, X was not available in 98 so, who ever does it will have their work cut out trying to figure out how to program it

 

Well, I will definitely disagree on one part of this. My donor engine was marked '96 s10 vin x and it had a egr valve on it. As far as the PCM goes, they are different parts listed on oem parts sites so I don't know for sure if it will run the engine but I'm getting spark and fuel. I tried to start the engine with starting fluid but that wouldn't even do the trick. I am afraid the engine is flooding so I pulled the fuel pump fuse and tried to get it to start with the starting fluid but with no luck. No luck with the fuse in either. I NEED to know where your getting all this info? Have you don't x to a swap personally? Also, '96, '97, '98 all have different pcm's from what I can tell, so have you don't a x from one year into a w from another year?