Control Arm Bushings and Ball Joints - Install and How To
#1
Control Arm Bushings and Ball Joints - Install and How To
Can anyone point me to a good "how to" for upper and lower control arm bushings and ball joint installation?
From everything I've read so far it's not a simple task and some special tools might be involved.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
I have a 99 ZR2 4WD.
Thank you
From everything I've read so far it's not a simple task and some special tools might be involved.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
I have a 99 ZR2 4WD.
Thank you
#2
As far as the bushings in the control arms i just burn out the rubber and/or tear away at it then collapse the bushing sleeve and push it out. Not the quickest or best but no special tools.
I then clean up the arm and use a board and a hammer and knock it in.
The ball joints if stock are a pain in the a$$....you have to remove the factory rivets.
If they have been replaced then they are piece o cake...just unbolt and knock them out.
Then clean up the surfaces...install and torque those bad boys.
I then clean up the arm and use a board and a hammer and knock it in.
The ball joints if stock are a pain in the a$$....you have to remove the factory rivets.
If they have been replaced then they are piece o cake...just unbolt and knock them out.
Then clean up the surfaces...install and torque those bad boys.
Last edited by warthogdriver; 03-06-2012 at 08:49 PM.
#3
Yep, they are indeed stock.
The labor quote today was about 700 bucks to do the whole front end with ball joints. Still shopping for the bushings, looks like I'll be ordering the MOOG ball joints. Upper and lower for both sides.
Having a hard time figuring out if these bushings on rockauto are per side or if they are a full kit. These appear to be the full kit for both sides, upper and lower.
Energy Suspension S-Series Control Arm Bushings
not familiar with the brand though.
The labor quote today was about 700 bucks to do the whole front end with ball joints. Still shopping for the bushings, looks like I'll be ordering the MOOG ball joints. Upper and lower for both sides.
Having a hard time figuring out if these bushings on rockauto are per side or if they are a full kit. These appear to be the full kit for both sides, upper and lower.
Energy Suspension S-Series Control Arm Bushings
not familiar with the brand though.
#4
I've compiled a couple of shopping lists as options. I'm hoping the ZR2 doesn't require special lower control arms, because I couldn't find any that specifically stated that they were specifically for the ZR2 package. I know this might be too much info, but I've never done a front end before on an IFS with TBARS. Only engine / tranny work.
FRONT LOWER BALL JOINT - DRIVER - $39.79
MOOG Part #*K5335
FRONT LOWER BALL JOINT - PASS - $39.79
MOOG Part #*K5335
FRONT UPPER BALL JOINT - DRIVER - $45.89
MOOG Part #*K5320
FRONT UPPER BALL JOINT - PASS - $45.89
MOOG Part #*K5320
UPPER Control Arm Bushing Kit - Both Sides - $43.79
MOOG Part #*K6418
Lower Control Arm Bushings - 1 Side - $13.43
MOOG Part #*K6333
Lower Control Arm Bushings - 1 Side - $13.43
MOOG Part #*K6333
TOTAL $242.01
################################################## #
And just replacing all 4 control arms that include bushings and ball joints.
Control Arm / Upper Left - $93.79
MOOG Part #*K620172
Control Arm / Upper Right - $93.79
MOOG Part #*K620173
LOWER Right CONTROL ARM /w Bushings & Ball Joint - $143.79
RAYBESTOS Part #*5071317
LOWER Left CONTROL ARM /w Bushings & Ball Joint - $143.79
RAYBESTOS Part #*5071316
TOTAL $475.16
Any parts not fit the bill here? I'm thinking I should just order the control arms and be done. lol
FRONT LOWER BALL JOINT - DRIVER - $39.79
MOOG Part #*K5335
FRONT LOWER BALL JOINT - PASS - $39.79
MOOG Part #*K5335
FRONT UPPER BALL JOINT - DRIVER - $45.89
MOOG Part #*K5320
FRONT UPPER BALL JOINT - PASS - $45.89
MOOG Part #*K5320
UPPER Control Arm Bushing Kit - Both Sides - $43.79
MOOG Part #*K6418
Lower Control Arm Bushings - 1 Side - $13.43
MOOG Part #*K6333
Lower Control Arm Bushings - 1 Side - $13.43
MOOG Part #*K6333
TOTAL $242.01
################################################## #
And just replacing all 4 control arms that include bushings and ball joints.
Control Arm / Upper Left - $93.79
MOOG Part #*K620172
Control Arm / Upper Right - $93.79
MOOG Part #*K620173
LOWER Right CONTROL ARM /w Bushings & Ball Joint - $143.79
RAYBESTOS Part #*5071317
LOWER Left CONTROL ARM /w Bushings & Ball Joint - $143.79
RAYBESTOS Part #*5071316
TOTAL $475.16
Any parts not fit the bill here? I'm thinking I should just order the control arms and be done. lol
Last edited by azzr2; 03-06-2012 at 10:32 PM.
#5
Youtube - how to replace lower control arm
Found these on youtube, 2 part video of removal and installation of lower ball joints.
1A Auto shows you how to remove a front lower ball joint on a 2002 Chevy S10 Pickup Truck 4x4. This is the same procedure on any 1998-08 Chevy S-10 Blazer, 1998-04 S-10 Pickup Truck, GMC Jimmy or S15 Sonoma. You can diagnose a bd ball joint by raising the front tire off the ground while supporting the control arm. Then use a pry bar or 2x4 under the tire. Have a person move the tire up and down with the pry bar while you look at the ball joint for side to side motion.
PART 1 - REMOVAL
PART 2 - INSTALLATION
TOOLS NEEDED:
1A Auto shows you how to remove a front lower ball joint on a 2002 Chevy S10 Pickup Truck 4x4. This is the same procedure on any 1998-08 Chevy S-10 Blazer, 1998-04 S-10 Pickup Truck, GMC Jimmy or S15 Sonoma. You can diagnose a bd ball joint by raising the front tire off the ground while supporting the control arm. Then use a pry bar or 2x4 under the tire. Have a person move the tire up and down with the pry bar while you look at the ball joint for side to side motion.
PART 1 - REMOVAL
PART 2 - INSTALLATION
TOOLS NEEDED:
Last edited by azzr2; 03-06-2012 at 11:13 PM.
#6
What I did to get the factory rivets out was use a grinder. It's a cheap one but it did the trick. Way better then trying to chisel them off.
They have better ones for more money. I thought it best to go cheap since I didn't think I would use it much. I also used it to grind off a nut on one of the ball joints.
If you are old enough you might remember the TV comercial... KAWASAKI MAKE A GOOD TIME ROLL!
Kawasaki 4.2A Angle Grinder, 4-1/2 in. Wheel Dia. - 3910505 | Tractor Supply Company
They have better ones for more money. I thought it best to go cheap since I didn't think I would use it much. I also used it to grind off a nut on one of the ball joints.
If you are old enough you might remember the TV comercial... KAWASAKI MAKE A GOOD TIME ROLL!
Kawasaki 4.2A Angle Grinder, 4-1/2 in. Wheel Dia. - 3910505 | Tractor Supply Company
#7
What I did to get the factory rivets out was use a grinder. It's a cheap one but it did the trick. Way better then trying to chisel them off.
They have better ones for more money. I thought it best to go cheap since I didn't think I would use it much. I also used it to grind off a nut on one of the ball joints.
If you are old enough you might remember the TV comercial... KAWASAKI MAKE A GOOD TIME ROLL!
Kawasaki 4.2A Angle Grinder, 4-1/2 in. Wheel Dia. - 3910505 | Tractor Supply Company
They have better ones for more money. I thought it best to go cheap since I didn't think I would use it much. I also used it to grind off a nut on one of the ball joints.
If you are old enough you might remember the TV comercial... KAWASAKI MAKE A GOOD TIME ROLL!
Kawasaki 4.2A Angle Grinder, 4-1/2 in. Wheel Dia. - 3910505 | Tractor Supply Company
lol, I remember an old kawasaki commercial that started with a guy on a motorcycle wearing a scarf and ski mask almost wiping out riding across a stream. lol I'm gonna have to see if I can find that commercial. I wonder if that's the same one.
#8
I just had to get the upper ball joints out of mine, and they were still stock. I drilled a pilot hole with a 1/8" bit straight down each one, maybe half inch. Use a center punch to start the hole. Then drill down with a 5/16" bit, and the heads will pop right off. I used a punch to knock out the bottom of the rivets. It took a couple of minutes total.
Luckily my bottom ball joints were bolted in.
Luckily my bottom ball joints were bolted in.
#9
I just ordered new moog upper control arms with bushings and ball joints and dorman lower control arms with bushings and ball joints. I also ordered a new steering dampener, moog idler arm and pitman arm. Hopefully they all get here this week so I can get them installed. I figured it wouldn't hurt to have spare control arms, so I'll take those stock ones out and keep them aside in case I ever need to replace one again. Looks like a pretty big job. I also ordered the cragar soft 8's and have new MT's sitting in my garage. I probably went a little overboard but I'd rather have the spare parts in case I screw something up.
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