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93 s10 blazer stalling. Fire spewing from pipes and no RpMs at rev. No pedal respons.

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93 s10 blazer stalling. Fire spewing from pipes and no RpMs at rev. No pedal respons.

  #1  
Old 04-15-2019, 10:49 PM
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Default 93 s10 blazer stalling on idle

Hello, I'm desperate to fix my baby. Blaze has some.major backfire and stalling issue. The stalling is almost timed. Like the truck is set to cut off due to this stalling issue. So far I replaced alternator starter fuel pump ac delco new fuel filter. Tune up wires plugs and ignition coil . got a new dist cap and rotor. IAC replaced. Idles PERFECT THE FIRST FEW SECONDS...then it start to sputter and dies. I can hear some hissing towards the front. I noticed a pump like The vac pump in the front I believe is missing an air hose its labeled air. But other then that it never had any issues except the fuel pump I replaced . the ground wire was loose s year ago and I fixed that. It was so random for my truck to just not start after a 30 mike commute. It just dies as soon as I parked it. Didn't show any signed of stalling prior. The truck first started showing signs of stalling when I would floor it. Then I just feather it and it would go back to normal
But after that long commute flat road it started dying. I hope I explained my self clear enough. Cleaned every sensor except 02, ones which shouldn't affect the idle. Is there a pedal sensor or a way to get the idle back on track because I've never experienced rough idle even as old as this truck is?
 
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Old 04-16-2019, 03:40 PM
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Default 93 s10 blazer stalling. Fire spewing from pipes and no RpMs at rev. No pedal respons.

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I heard in here that aan advanced vacuum hose could be lose or disconnected. I don't know if I put my vacuum line back on right but they are on. There isns canister in the front of my 93 blazer by the Radiator driver side. There's a spot to plug an air hose but there is no hose there. Also I replaced IAC control valve. Cleaned throttle body replaced leaking injectors with new spider assembly vin w. New ac delco fuel pump. New fuel filter. Tore down gas tank completely cleaned out gas tank and put new 93 gas in it. I'm wondering where I went wrong. I mean the truck was hesitating the last week I drove it and would bog out when I floor it so I don't know if that Was the truck telling me it was about to stall. I also replaced the alternator and starter. Chopped the muffler from back firing. It blew off that's why I cut it. So I smell fireworks and my cat sounds like its struggling I see flames from the pipe...it sounds like popcorn piping in my sparkplug area. Oh yeah and my ROMs won't go up unless I feather it. Even then it struggles to go passed a 1000 rpm! This truck is not weak its a really tough truck I mean it broke down twice in the life of this truck so far. Once a year ago the fuel pump ground was failing and would only work if I connected it directly by screwing unscrewing the bolt holding it. And this time where I shut it off and it just stalled for the last three months . part for part research after research. I know I'm not the only person w this issue. But I replaced everything that would make KT stall for the most part. I will say this I have not set the timing since I replaced my CaP and I also replaced the ICM underneath the rotor . please tell me what I'm doing wrong as I've read my fixed from a gm college workbook. I mean break it all Dow for u. But its something only a true mechanic will be able to pin point....someone please help me!!!!! PS I attached a photo but keep in mind the gas I put over a half tank since this picture a month ago. And its still reading no oil after a tune up at 10 minute oil change place. There is a black round unit that broke off the lower intake back of engine it was s sensor I think but snaped right off engine when I was replacing the dist Cap. I think its the oil pressure sending unit? Cuz ever since my oil is fluctuation saying I have an abundance of oil and then goes to 40 normal and then dropped to 1 bar ever since. I'm trying to be as thorough as possible so someone can help me fix this. I know someone out there knows exactly what this bs is lol a spent 1100 dollars so far between mechanics that DONT know my truck and buying parts and fixing things myself


 
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Old 04-18-2019, 11:05 PM
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This section is for the subsequent 2nd Gen S-series (95-05) so you might be better off asking in the 1st gen section
 
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Old 04-19-2019, 03:28 AM
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Merged and placed in 1st gen.
 
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Old 04-19-2019, 04:22 AM
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Let's tackle the wealth of information you give us:


When exactly did it start behaving like this?

By "backfiring" you mean explosions through the exhaust? (I guess as it has destroyed your muffler)

Have you changed all these parts "before" it started or "after" the issues with stalling started, as an attempt to repair?


Assumptions I have to make, else we'll start over at the beginning:
I assume that all repairs to the fuel injection have been successful.
That means that the "pump-filter-regulator-injectors-return line" have been replaced according specs.
I assume you have not moved your distributor.
I assume you have no other electrical problems on the car like - smell - blown fuses - arching - funny behaviour of switches or indications.

To address the problems I would IMHO do the following:

Check if there are codes or the SES or malfunction lights.
Check all the wiring to and from the engine.
Check all the vacuum lines from the engine and check if there are empty ports on the manifold.
Check the spark from the coil and to the individual spark plugs using a spark tester.
Remove and check all the spark plugs, making sure you know which one was where 1-2-3-...(this can give a wealth of information about what is happening)
Check all ignition wires and especially check the correct ignition order

One of the faults that can create all the trouble with backfire is the ignition wiring order.
If two cylinders have swapped ignition wires this can cause the backfiring.
Around the distributor cap (clockwise) it should have the following order, assuming that #1 is correctly identified.

1 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2

If it is running with a decent idle the next step would be to check if the timing is correct.
(The #1 is normally pointing towards the engine slightly right, when seen from above. Like pointing towards the front right corner of the engine.

There should be a wealth of readings on how to adjust timing on our forum.

BROKEN SENSOR:

The oil pressure sensor on the 93 should be the same as on the 94 and is located slightly left and slightly aft of the distributor.
This needs to be replaced correctly, else there is no way as to know if the oil pressure is correct.


Someone else with thoughts on how to go about that?
 
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