1991 blazer not starting plz help 4.3
#1
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how you doing i just joined here found the place threw google when i typed in 91 blazer not starting.
ok heres the deal bout a month ago i drove my truck to work and i parked it and went to start again and would not start then on my break 2hours later the truck started right up.
the second time i went to work parked it tried to start wouldn't start waited a few hours still wouldn't start waited a day and still didn't start so i put new relay switches in it and she fired right up.
the third time same thing went to work parked blah blah blah went to start on my lunch break wouldn't start waited till the next day and was told i should change the cap and router so i did and it started right up......
my truck started this morning but about 2 hours ago when i went to go to the gas station truck would not start.
i love my truck but im about to blow it to peaces please help me
ok heres the deal bout a month ago i drove my truck to work and i parked it and went to start again and would not start then on my break 2hours later the truck started right up.
the second time i went to work parked it tried to start wouldn't start waited a few hours still wouldn't start waited a day and still didn't start so i put new relay switches in it and she fired right up.
the third time same thing went to work parked blah blah blah went to start on my lunch break wouldn't start waited till the next day and was told i should change the cap and router so i did and it started right up......
my truck started this morning but about 2 hours ago when i went to go to the gas station truck would not start.
i love my truck but im about to blow it to peaces please help me
#2
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Two things: Is it fuel or spark. If you have fuel and no spark than I would look at the coil and if not the coil the distributer itself. I have an 89 Jimmy and it was not starting and then starting and running intermittently. I first tried the coil and it did not fix the problem. I got a rebuilt distribuer from NAPA for about $130.00 and ever since the car runs great. If it was the fuel pump I would expect it not to run at all. Changing the distributer is pretty easy you just have to mark the orientation of the rotor prior to removal so the timing will be pretty close when you install the replacement. Make sure all plug wires are correct. it was last year when I had my distributer malfucntion. I suspect that you replaced the fuel pump relay which would only have an affect if you were not getting power to the fuel pump. In fact the Oil Pressure switch is back up power to the fuel pump so I doubt that the relays had any thing to do with you problem. The cap and rotor would improve spark but unless the cap was cracked and the contacts totally coroded or worn that would not be your problem. The coil would be my first choice and then the distributer itself. I am the original owner so I have had both of these items fail at different times. When the coil failed the engine would not run at all. The only intermittent time was when the distributer was malfunctioning. When my fuel pump went out at least on two occassions it would not run at all.
Last edited by mr.vls; 03-02-2010 at 06:21 PM.
#3
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Oooooh I wonder if you are going to have the CPI problem that lots of us have had latley, sounds just like when mine went out last month.
Is it cranking and not firing, or not cranking at all? Are you getting crappy fuel milage? Can you smell gas when the hoods open? Any engine lights?
Take that little cover that says VORTEC off the top of the engine, and then take that black valve out of the plenum that looks like a hockey puck and have a look in that hole with a flashlight.
black coating on everything = good.
Puddles or clean spots anywhere = bad.
Dont go giving up on your truck, these are great trucks and you will get all the help you need from the crew around here. Check out the inside of the plenum and get back to us with some more info.
Is it cranking and not firing, or not cranking at all? Are you getting crappy fuel milage? Can you smell gas when the hoods open? Any engine lights?
Take that little cover that says VORTEC off the top of the engine, and then take that black valve out of the plenum that looks like a hockey puck and have a look in that hole with a flashlight.
black coating on everything = good.
Puddles or clean spots anywhere = bad.
Dont go giving up on your truck, these are great trucks and you will get all the help you need from the crew around here. Check out the inside of the plenum and get back to us with some more info.
#4
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there is no engine light on. i changed the fuel filter and nothing happened. when i changed the distributer cap in can good but the old cap was so worn im supprized in ran at all b4. i really don't thing its the coil or the distributer cuz the truck will run when i put gas/starting fluid in the throttle body.......... which is why im gonna change the fuel pump... but what doesn't make sense to me is why did it run when i put new relay's? and why did it run when i changed the cap and router? if it were the fuel pump it doesn't make sense why i have no problems with the truck while it IS running. but i listened closely and i can't hear the pump kicking on so i'm gonna change it. i really really really don't wanna do the job it sucks i don't wanna drop the tank ahhh but i will l,et you all know if thats the problem or not tho and i will post pics of my blazer when i get a chance
ps i have a moon/sun roof in my truck but the handle is broken and its rigged to close but i wanna get the handle its a webasto roof just a pull down pull up glass if you know were i can get one i will buy it thank you
ps i have a moon/sun roof in my truck but the handle is broken and its rigged to close but i wanna get the handle its a webasto roof just a pull down pull up glass if you know were i can get one i will buy it thank you
#5
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well im on an adventure changing the fuel pump i decided to cut a hole in the floor instead of dropping the tank it's easier and if it dont work i don't have to do it again but i have no saw but i cut a 1 by 1 hole with a pair of 10 snips and you should all know the small cross member that is there to i cut threw that with 10 snips it took me a few hours lol but its done and i will put the fuel pump in probably 2mro and i will update you when i finish
#6
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I put an inspection/fuel pump plate in my 96 Tahoe on the second pump replacement. I did this by locating and marking the area (under the drivers side back seat in this case) and after checking clearance below, used a 3/16 inch drill bit with a plastic tube over it to allow under a 1/4 inch of penetration. I drilled every half inch on the layout line, then took a sharp small chisel and took out each piece between the holes. Hammer the chisel as close to horizontal as possible, not downward. After taking out the cut panel I cleaned the edges of the it and the hole. I took galvanized a/c sheet metal and cut the proper length pieces 1.5 inches wide and attached them to the panel with short sheet metal screws. Leave 3/4 inch to attach to the floor. This method works very well if the floor to be cut has ribs. I also put down a very small bead of RTV when I reinstalled the panel. Maybe someone can use the tip.
#7
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You guys can hack up your own vehicle anyway you see fit, but personally, I would never suggest such a short cut with the multitude of ways it can go wrong. I also would never do it. But that's just me.
#8
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and yeah that is a great way to do that 1 trucker but unfortunately
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#9
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Did you bother to check the fuel pressure before butchering the floor? You said it took 2 hours to cut that hole, when you could have had the tank up and down 4 or 5 times in that timeframe, so you didnt really save any time by doing that.
Spend 50 bucks on a Fuel Injection Pressure Tester, it threads on the test port right behind your upper plenum, and that will tell you whether you even have to mess with the pump or not.
Your symptoms remind me of the blazer I just bought and fixed. Starts fine when its been sitting, wont restart cause its flooded. Mine was a leak in the plenum BIG TIME leak! Its an easy test to do, just get the right tools and stop butchering your floor.
Spend 50 bucks on a Fuel Injection Pressure Tester, it threads on the test port right behind your upper plenum, and that will tell you whether you even have to mess with the pump or not.
Your symptoms remind me of the blazer I just bought and fixed. Starts fine when its been sitting, wont restart cause its flooded. Mine was a leak in the plenum BIG TIME leak! Its an easy test to do, just get the right tools and stop butchering your floor.
#10
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Did you bother to check the fuel pressure before butchering the floor? You said it took 2 hours to cut that hole, when you could have had the tank up and down 4 or 5 times in that timeframe, so you didnt really save any time by doing that.
Spend 50 bucks on a Fuel Injection Pressure Tester, it threads on the test port right behind your upper plenum, and that will tell you whether you even have to mess with the pump or not.
Your symptoms remind me of the blazer I just bought and fixed. Starts fine when its been sitting, wont restart cause its flooded. Mine was a leak in the plenum BIG TIME leak! Its an easy test to do, just get the right tools and stop butchering your floor.
Spend 50 bucks on a Fuel Injection Pressure Tester, it threads on the test port right behind your upper plenum, and that will tell you whether you even have to mess with the pump or not.
Your symptoms remind me of the blazer I just bought and fixed. Starts fine when its been sitting, wont restart cause its flooded. Mine was a leak in the plenum BIG TIME leak! Its an easy test to do, just get the right tools and stop butchering your floor.