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1992 S10 Tahoe LT

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Old 10-21-2010, 07:42 AM
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Default 1992 S10 Tahoe LT

Hi,

I have a chance to buy a 1992 S10 Blaze Tahoe LT 137,100 Miles from a neighbor, Black w/Silver Trim, Black Interior. It hasn't been driving since summer-fall of '07

06-07 repairs include new EGR Valve, O2 Sensor, FI Spider, Fuel Pump and a few other items.

I haven't purchased it yet and wondering what is the best/easiest and right way to Drain the Fuel and Repair the power wire to the fuel pump as when its driven over a bump it shorts the fuse.

I want to drian the old fuel out before the FP is turned on for the first time in 2+ years and am not sure if I should;

1. Drop the tank
2. Stuff a hose in

A small other problem is the Temp Gauge isnt working and the PO isn't sure what the problem is, I'm thinking its a Temp Sender on the LH Head.

The truck has the digital dash, push button 4WD, and I guess the HO Engine being mated to the 4sp Auto and says "Vortec" on the intake ( In Red Lettering )

I'm familiar with the 4.3 engines from the marine world and know of the issues sitting fuel can cause hence why I want to drain the tank.

THe drivers door has some rot but no holes, metal edges are broken off, the rocker seems good, I didn't look at the passenger side.

What would a vehicle like this be worth ?

THank you for your ideas and opinions.

ps.. I'm from New England.
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:27 PM
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*Moved to '1st Gen Tech'. The 'New Member' section is for introductions only, not for asking technical questions.*
 
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Old 10-21-2010, 05:59 PM
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To drain the tank without running the pump would be to just drop it. You could try to Siphon it, but the tank has baffles inside of it and its hard to get it all.

Not sure how about the temp gauge, could be the sending unit.

Why hasnt the truck run for so long?

How much is he asking for it?
 

Last edited by 94BlazerPA; 10-22-2010 at 04:49 AM. Reason: asked another ?
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Old 10-22-2010, 12:54 AM
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these are all questions you have to consider. is the title clean? Do you have any available reciepts for the previous work done by the PO? How do the components look overall? rusting, soft spots, bondo, hollow/filled sounds when knocking on fenders and body? Test the gauge, look on the passenger side of the engine for a little plug coming out near the manifold, pull that plug out and the gauge will go to 100% due to an open circuit. if it fails to move, it is a bad gauge.
Drop your gas tank, it is better to inspect and be sure than to feed your engine something deadly.
check play in the steering wheel, look for odd or uneven wear on the tires. check brake gas and all rubber feed lines.

Conduct a test on the computer, pins are in two rows- B+A equal the ECM, A+H equal ABS ECM (if equipped)
[0000BA]
[0H0000]
 
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:27 AM
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So I did some more checking, 1992 S10 Blazer Tahoe LT, Dk Green, with Black Int. Leather, looks like all opts except running boards and sunroof. 235's on Alloyr rims. 4wd, rear wiper, cruise, tilt, power windows & locks. W Engine.

about 10 receipts for different repairs, new EGR, O2, Fuel Pump ( though not working ) Blower, Starter and more.

Under the hood:

Oil Change, Check Rad Coolant Hydro check, Hood Lamp.

Need to figure out why no 12V coming from ECM to trigger Fuel Pump Relay, and why, when sending 12V down Grey wire doesn't turn on Fuel Pump

Need to repair Hatch Windows Acticator ( no Clicking ) and can't open Window with Key/****

Hopefully this thing will run as good as the PO says.
 
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:15 PM
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going to test the ECM, checked all fuses, good, will re-check ECM fuses and 12v to them. Will repair ground @ fuel pump and test with 12v. I'm pretty sure the CE Light is on with key on and in test position.

Getting the truck for $500, 1 small dent on leading edge of hood, rust on bottom of doors and back edge of wheel wells. shocks need replacing front tire abnormal wear

Truck has been sitting on pavement driveway as the son(owner) hasn't needed the truck as he lives in boston downtown. Steering seems ok at the moment, need to take a peak at the idler and pitman arm when the wheel is wiggled.

AC was converted and has a Filter ( like engine oil filter ) on it.

Found disconnected vac hose under Throttle Body, need to clean throttle body, get a EGR gasket to check behind for blockage when replacing Thermostat & TEMP Sensor
 
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Old 11-01-2010, 03:01 PM
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I picked up pretty much the same thing as you did but it is a 93 Tahoe LT. I paid $200 for it and I now have it running smooth. The engine was really running rough. My Temp gauge issue was the wire to the sensor on the right head. I cut the wire and spliced in a new one and it immediately started working. I would say you should be able to wheel and deal a bit since it has been so long since it has ran. Remember decent blazers of this age can run from $800-1500 depending on care of the vehicle. There is one where I live for $800 bo with 138K on it, cloth and its a 94 with the vortec.
 
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Old 11-01-2010, 03:49 PM
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When you say abnormal wear on front tires, I would check the Upper & Lower Ball Joints & Axel Hub bearings. Engine issues are minor compared to these. I just finished replacing all on my '93 and it was a nightmare....i got it done but holy smokes what a job......you could be looking at $500-$1000 repair bill depending.
 
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Old 11-02-2010, 04:22 PM
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Thanks for the thoughts. I'm a GM baby this is my 12th GM. the front tire wear seems to be toe in/out wear. Found that the CE light came on once, then not again, fuses are OK, will need to pull the ECM and test the wires.

Only paying $500 for the truck, its a little dirty, drivers seats a little worn, column is a little loose ( fixed that before). But for the money, I think it'll be fine. Hope to have pics soon as i can find the charger for the camera.
 
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:27 AM
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Tested the FP Relay, OK - recently new

First test of the ECM - DEAD, but now appears to be working as I'm getting 5v to sensors, like the MAP, TPS etc.. so I will recheck and see if I get a default code, else I'll buy one from Ebay

Tell me i'm crazy, cuz I put 12v direct to the connector at the fuel tank for the FP, put 12v + to Grey and had the ground from the battery charger to the bolt where the 12v - gets connected, and I got Nothing :-( from the pump, no whine, nothing. So I guess I need to drop the tank as I guess it's dead.

Gotta say that who ever designed the bolt setup for the tank straps needs to get a new brain, yea, it bolts up nice when the body's off, but really ? you try from underneath. - you #*$&^#*&$^
 


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