Hey guys,

brand new to this website how is everyone? well i just bought a 1993 chevy blazer S10 "automatic" with 110,000 miles on it when i bought it i had to jump the battery to drive it home (10 miles drive home) drove fine with no problems. Now i have it at my house and bought a new battery..when ever i have to start it up i have to spray starter fluid in it for some reason once i spray it in it starts right up it will drive for about 3 feet then stall out?? then same thing again spray starter fluid and it will start then move about 3 feet then stall out..?? what can it be ...today i changed the oil and filter..cleaned spark plugs..but its werid is there anyone who can help me out or hopefully has had the same problem? thanks!!!!!!

 

*Moving to 1st Gen Tech* - Technical questions belong in the technical sections.

I would start with a fuel pressure and leak down test. You need >55psi to start the truck and it shouldn't drop more than a few psi once the pump shuts off.

This is a VERY well documented problem with the CPI engines so search up!

 

I had a similar problem with my 88 I found a vacuume hose that was partially off. Not sure if that is what is going on but I have not had a problem since I tightened that up. Hope it helps

 

The wiring harness that goes to the spider injector could be bad , its only a foot long with two wires . That is what was wrong with mine and it took forever to find , after replacing everything possable . It sat for six months or better while I went part by part . Sometimes it would start and run other times it would not . Try wiggling the wires first.

 

hey awsome thanks for the reply im going to give your suggestions a shot 2 quick questions im a dummy when it comes to cars where is the vaccum hose located and the spider injector what wire do i wiggle thanks?!

 

Take a look at this, it might help you.

And on this page there's a coupled of pictures that might help you.

Maybe that will help you until one of the others gets back.

 

Well, your spider injector is inside the top of the engine. Its under that plate with the orange VORTEC on it. To test the connection stand in front of the vehicle looking down at the engine. Get it running and idling, then look down under the rubber air intake tube, behind the belts and stuff, there is a red and blue pair of wires that pokes rearward into the aluminum through a rubber grommet. Grab those red/blue wires and move them around and see if you can make the truck stall, if it changes how its running at all, then you have a bad connector. Its a very common problem, and overlooked alot. Please watch your hand in there when the engine is running so you dont get a belt burn or worse. If this stalls your truck, then you want to ask for a "4.3 or 5.7 CPFI injector harness" and its going to cost you about ten smackaroos. It has new red and blue wires, and its about a foot long. You can find the detailed tear down instructions in the forums, just do a little searching. It is not a hard job at all, and will require a screw driver with torx bits, and a 10MM deep socket and 13MM wrench

As for checking the fuel pressure. If you have a neighbor thats usually screwing around in the garage on weekends, go ask if he has a "Fuel Injection pressure tester" and would check your trucks pressure. Its a guage with a rubber hose. You may also be able to use one at the partsource store and test it in the parking lot. It threads onto a little nipple that looks like a tire valve, and its located down below, and to the drivers side of the distributor (round thing that the plug wires all meet up at) You want to test the pressure with the key on, the pressure when its running, and then the pressure after its been shut off for a minute or five.

Hope that gets you rolling in the right direction.

 

JustJerry, the image in the first link is for an SCFI engine and really won't have many things in common with the OPs CPI engine. The second link to the FPR replacement thread is very applicable though.

The reference to a vacuum line by breezy88 will be different on the 88 TBI engine than on a CPI engine as well, but the advice to check over all of the vacuum lines for leaks is very sound!

Check out this picture:

It shows the wiring harness that is being discussed. It goes from the injector in the center of the picture out the front of the lower intake manifold which is in the lower right of the picture. The actual exit from the LIM is under the throttle body when the upper plenum is installed on the engine as can be seen in some of the other pictures in the CPI FPR replacement thread.

 

I thought a vacuum leak caused a really high idle on the cpi engines?

 

hey guys just got out to my truck today being in NJ we got snowed in for the last 3 days and my truck was covered in snow so like i said im a total moron when it comes to cars but check out what i found the rubber air intake hose ..OEM part number 25098669 at the one end its all chewed up and where the silver wire tie thingy is to tighten it its not covering the rubber all the way being the hose is all chewed up for some reason so it wont go back on correct without a hole showing can this be the issue? i also attached a picture of the rubber hose i looked up part online and its like $15.00 please let me know..... link to photo on bottom thanks again for everyone's help!!! have a good new year!!!


http://s1090.photobucket.com/albums/i362/abutera76/