I went to the scrapyard yesterday, and for 60 bucks I got:

The fuel injection spider with FPR and injector. (this thing NEW sells for 880.00 at my local parts store)
The Distributor shaft
The ignition module (looks fairly new too)
The EGR valve (looks like new and has a screen gasket)
The coil
RF bumper signal light lense
Instrument cluster dimmer (the rotating thing)
rear window shocks
A trans sipstick for my friends 99 blazer she was missing
An EGR valve and senson for a family members Windstar van.
and a couple other small interior peices that my blazer was missing.

I also stopped and bought a fuel injection pressure test kit, the guy sold it to me for 50 bucks instead of 88 like the computer said it sells for, so Im happy. It has an adapter for ford and chrysler too.

Tested fuel pressure, shoots up to 60 with key on - so thats good. there is no leak down after 10 minutes, so I dont think I have a leak in my injection system. I also bought the upper plenum gasket incase I have to take that stuff apart.

Today I changed over the module and coil, and still no start. Its cold so I came back in here to read a little before I go back out and pull a plug to see if Im sparking still.

I sprayed some carb cleaner into it to see if she would start on that, and nothing.

Im at my wits end with this darn truck I bought for cheap and have sunken 500 bucks into already. I really want it to start so my woman stops driving my toyota around...

There is no trouble codes.

It was running until a couple days ago, it was making a 'whirring' noise at low RPM, not very loud. I used my stethoscope and it was coming from the distirubtor shaft, so thats why I grabbed a new one. Im going to to out and pull that if I have no spark and see if the gears are stripped off it??? I have no idea what to check out next.

 

checking for spark out of the distributor would be your next step and most likely you dont have any. If you have spark out of the coil, it sounds like the bushing is shot in the distrubutor and wiped the end off of the rotor or the gear is missing some teeth

 

I had spark at my plug wires, I used a screwdriver to test for spark and got zapped through the handle, but it wasnt as bad as Ive been zapped before, so im going to check out your suggestion tomorrow and see what I find out. Ive gotta get this thing running. It has a brand new cap and rotor on it with only an hour of run time on them, cause thats when it crapped out and wouldnt restart. Im also going to check the timing, I never had the distributor out, but what the heck...

Also, when I chaned the FPR and Injector today, I popped the injector out of its hole, and the hole was full of gas, is this normal?

 

Maybe try to take your valve cover off and make sure you have no bent push rods . I took mine apart and it was shaped like a s . I wish I could help more , I have a simalar problem . I thought I had it fixxed , tore it all apart and wiggled the wire on the spider and it started working put it all back together and it ran great so i put it back on the road , now she's dead again . I have fuel to the spider injector its just not injecting it . I went and purchased a niod light kit today and found out I have great power going to the injector so its got to be that . HOPEFULLY!!! I will let you know .

 

You could do what I did and get one from the junkyard, i got the whole spider with FPR and Injector for about 12 bucks. It was the fix i needed. Also if you look in another one of my posts another member posts a website that sells a complete kit for 300 bucks that comes with spider, FPR, injector, nut kit, and a new gasket, thats a great deal!

 

Got the truck running with a junkyard spider, it ran well out in the yard for 2 hours, no codes, no stalling. Had a short drive and it stalled stopping for my driveway once. Ran fine in my yard again... No codes.

We took a scoot for some groceries about 1.5 KM away, and on the way back it wanted to stall at the red light, so I gassed it a little to keep it running and it didnt stall on me, but the engine light came on... Also the brake pedal felt like it was at the bottom and still not stopping the truck until the engine smoothed out, then the pedal was able to be pushed a little more...

5 codes now:

DTC 22 Throttle Position low
DTC 35 Idle Air Control error
DTC 34 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor low
DTC 32 Exhaust Gas Recirculation error
DTC 45 O2 Sensor rich

Anyone want to point me in a direction for tomorrows tasks??? Thanks.

The truck starts and runs, but seems to smoke quite a bit and have a rich smell. The fuel leaking from the spider was fixed and tested many times for leaks before I put it back together. It wouldnt start with the old spider problems and never had any codes before today.

 

egr will make it run bad if it is stuck, tps will make it idle spuratically, map sensor will make want to die, o2 sensor can make it run rich, intake air control will make it run rich also.


hope this gives you a little direction. i know its a pain i'm going through something kinda similar it sounds like.

 

I have combined your last two threads concerning the same issues with your truck. Please confine posts about the same problem to one thread so folks can follow what you have tried to do.