88 S10 wont re-start after low oil?
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 8
From: Gainesville, GA
Okay guys I checked the code again and I was wrong the first time. I was reading it backwards. It's reading 12 not 21 as I first though. Checked code 12 and it says you'll always get a 12 when it won't crank and that code 12 can't be used to diagnose. So I tried pouring a bit of gas in the throttle body to see if it would fire and nothing. So I'm sure it's not fuel related but it's not getting fire. Since I don't have a code to directly diagnose the problem where should I start? Coil, ECM,? I need help here!
http://repairpal.com/gm-obd-code-12
http://repairpal.com/gm-obd-code-12
Starting Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 134
The code 12 shows that it's going into diagnostic mode, you should get 12, 3 times, then if it set another code you'll get it, or more if it set more than one code, then you'll get 12 again 3 times, that tells you there's no more codes..
To check your coil, pull the coil wire out from the center of the distributor cap and hold it near (not ON) a ground on the motor, have someone crank the motor, you should see a blue arc if it's working. You may have to stick something, metal in it because the contact in recessed back aways. Don't hold it in your bare hand, or you'll know in a hurry if it's working or not. lol
To check your coil, pull the coil wire out from the center of the distributor cap and hold it near (not ON) a ground on the motor, have someone crank the motor, you should see a blue arc if it's working. You may have to stick something, metal in it because the contact in recessed back aways. Don't hold it in your bare hand, or you'll know in a hurry if it's working or not. lol
Start 1st by testing if there's power coming out of plug wires. If no power; test if there's power out of the ignition coil.
If there's power out of the coil but no power out of the plug wires, the problem is in the distributor. Open the cap and take a look.
1st, ask someone to start the car for you and make sure the rotor is turning (to make sure the shaft is ok). Could be the rotor with bad contacts (but you said it's a new distributor), could be the brush on the main wire on the cap, could be the magnet (I had it broken to pieces once by revving the engine very high).
If there's power out of the coil but no power out of the plug wires, the problem is in the distributor. Open the cap and take a look.
1st, ask someone to start the car for you and make sure the rotor is turning (to make sure the shaft is ok). Could be the rotor with bad contacts (but you said it's a new distributor), could be the brush on the main wire on the cap, could be the magnet (I had it broken to pieces once by revving the engine very high).
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New Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 8
From: Gainesville, GA
Okay guys thanks for the help. I found out the problem. It was the wire between the coil and distributor. It wasn't tight enough on the coil and the nipple out of the coil had become corroded (oxidized aluminum). I have a new problem now and I will post it also. It surges when you get up to normal speed and only light pressure on the pedal. I thought it was the shift cable on the tranny so I adjusted that. It improved the shift but still surges. Any thoughts?
Yeah, get that code thats setting the engine light off... Jump it again, you should get the 21 code THREE time... AND THEN you get the actual trouble code... I dont think you are waiting long enough here...
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