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'89 S10 Blazer Smoked Coil

Old Sep 1, 2010 | 04:14 PM
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Angry '89 S10 Blazer Smoked Coil

I received an '89 S10 Blazer from my father-in-law about 4 days ago. Since then I have burnt up the coil that was on it, and a brand new one from Advance Auto. The first one it stalled and then while pushing it off the road the coil started smoking heavily. Ofcourse there was the burnt electronic smell that followed. Got the new one from Advance Auto and drove it for less than 50 miles and then it burnt up the new one. I replaced it with another new one, but I am afraid to drive it if it is just going to burn up the new one. When I put the third one on it this morning I ran a "custom" ground from the coil housing to chassis ground where two other ground wires were terminated. Anyone have a thought as to why this would happen?

If you have the time to email me a response that would be best since I am at work, or I can check the forum later. My email is james.keaton@inbox.com. Thanks in advance!
 
Old Sep 1, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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what are your voltge readings at the connector, with it unplugged at each wire?
 
Old Sep 1, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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Ok so the only voltage going to the coil is 12.1V on the red wire in the gray plug. I checked continuity to make sure the ground was good and it was. Could a miss cause a new coil to burn up in under 50 miles?

Update: So my local auto parts store seems to think it is the ignition module. Anyone have any thoughts?

Update: 09/04/2010 - I had my ignition control module tested and it tested fine so after talking with someone else they said that they had the same thing happen to their Blazer a few years ago and it was a worn out distributor. There was a short inside the distributor that sent the feedback back to the coil and kept frying coils. Of course I didn't mark the original distributor location so now I have to get the engine back to TDC. I will let everyone know if this fixed the truck or not. Also I have bought new plugs wires cap and rotor button. The new distributor came with a new ignition control module.

One question about getting the engine at TDC...

From everything I have read I am still a little confused.

Does the piston need to be at the very top and then line the timing marks up? If so in which stroke do I need to line up the marks? In the ompression stroke before the piston gets to TDC or after the piston hits TDC and is in the Power stroke?

Thanks for all your help!
 

Last edited by jameskeaton; Sep 4, 2010 at 10:53 PM.
Old Sep 4, 2010 | 10:54 PM
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bump ttt
 
Old Sep 5, 2010 | 08:43 AM
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You can bump a post after 24hours has elapsed. No problems there!

To time the engine, you bring the #1 cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke and then line up the timing marks.

I doubt that the distributor is causing coil problems. The distributor just completes the ground circuit for the step up side of the coil, releasing the high voltage spark. I would suspect a faulty new coil.
 
Old Sep 6, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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check all your spark plug wires too... maybe one is arching off and causing it to short out, though i usually see it short out the ignition module first,
 
Old Sep 6, 2010 | 05:01 PM
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Ok well got the truck running today...I am still not sure if the coil problem is fixed yet or not because I wasn't able to drive it far enough. It died after a short drive, and with the fuel gauge not reading accurately I assumed that it must be out of gas. I got fuel and it actually drove. I drove the truck for about 4 miles and then the truck died again and would not restart. I took off the top of the air filter cover and had a friend try and start it and there was no fuel. I am going to make sure that relay/fuse is good. I am assuming that it is the fuel pump. Anyone have any other thoughts?
 
Old Sep 6, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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do you have spark now?
 
Old Sep 7, 2010 | 11:42 PM
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Ok I went to take a look at the truck today and the truck WAS getting fuel so I took a spark plug out and put it to ground and no spark. The coil didn't smell like it was burnt up so I trouble shot it for another minute and then I determined that it was the coil again. I got a new coil and it fired right up. After driving 6 - 8 miles I felt the coil and it wasn't hot and barely warm so I am hoping that it is fixed. I hope so because I am now on my fourth coil but with everything I have replaced I hope that they were causing the coils to go out.

To those that may have been following this thread...I have driven the truck a total of about 60 miles and it is still running great. The furthest that I have been able to drive on a coil before this time was approx. 45 miles. I am assuming that it is fixed. Also, I noticed last night that the red wire from the black plug that goes into the coil had some black discoloration on it. I am assuming that when I hit the bump with the original coil that the old wire arc'd through the insulation and seeing as it was routed right over top of that red wire. I think that was the problem. With the new wires and I rerouted that plug wire so I am assuming that everything is fixed.
 

Last edited by jameskeaton; Sep 8, 2010 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Added info
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 10:31 AM
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Ok so yesterday I replaced the front brakes. The truck now has 500+ miles on the last coil and it burnt up yesterday. It started missing really bad, backfired, and then died. I tried to crank it a few times and it would start and then die. I left the ignition on while I pushed the truck out of the way, and POOF smoked the coil. Anyone think I should try an MSD coil or have any other suggestions? I am at a loss with this truck.
 

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