You should probably start your own thread on this, but...

The lines are not associated directly with the FPR and no, you don't have to replace the whole spider when just the fuel pressure & return lines and fuel pressure regulator have failed. The spider generally doesn't fail except electrically (and when the poppets get broken).

Fuel pressure dropoff is due to 1 of 2 reasons: 1) your FPR has failed or 2) the check valve in your fuel pump has failed.

You don't need to remove the plenum to check the FPR and nut kit - remove the 'Vortec' cover, then remove the IMTV (round thing underneath). Be gentle with the IMTV, there's an o-ring you need for reinstallation. Look inside with a flashlight...if you see washed areas (clean, shiny gold-looking) or puddles of fuel on the passenger side, it's the FPR. If you see washed areas on the right, it's usually the nut kit. If you see neither, it's probably your pump.

 

so there are a few more things I have done to try and fix my problem but still can't even get my truck to start.

I bought a new EGR Valve, Distributor Cap+Wires and rotor. everything is on correctly but it still just turns over but never fires up. Since replacing the MAP sensor the code device says everything is fine.

Even with the new Distributor Cap and wires, while turning the engine over you can here some fairly fast, evenly timed clicking coming from the distributor area. I'm not sure if this is normal or not. Could it be that maybe I have a bad spark plug or two? I will check those out today. I still haven't been able to checked the fuel pressure coming from the pump. thats next on the agenda. any more ideas so far?

 

You need to test the fuel pressure. First, though, you can watch the spray from your injectors (you have a TBI, yes?). Take off the air cleaner cover and watch for even, nice spray cone of fuel.

 

Do you have spark? Yes/No, If not then the problem may be the distributer itself. Mine went bad and I replaced it with a rebuilt one from NAPA. You really need to distinguish if it is fuel or spark. If you have both fuel and spark then the next thing would be the timing. Belt could have jumped time which would allow the engine to crank and crank and crank with no start.

 

I would verify the firing order is correct. Then bring the #1 piston to top dead center, (Compression Stroke and the timing mark on damper aligned with scale at 0 degrees. Mark the number one spark plug location for ref. and remove the distributer cap. The rotor should be pointing towards (or very close to) the number one plug. If it is not then you could have jumped time.

 

I seem to be getting spark and fuel just fine. could it be possible my timing is so far out of whack that it would cause my truck not to start anymore? my friend that drove it up here said that the last few times it died it back-fired a couple times. enough to were there are burn holes going through my brand new air filter. then another friend of mine said that a backfire like that can cause the timing to get out of place. I don't know enough about cars if thats even true?

*I do know that the Firing order is correct.

 

Yes, the timing is critical. If it is a little out of time it may run rough and backfire, more than a little and it will not start. You can loosen the distributer hold down bolt and try rotating the distributer a little each way to see if you can get it to start and run a little smoother. But you want to make sure that you mark the current position of the distributer befor any rotation so you can return the distributer to the oringinal position. I would check TDC first. Remove the number one plug and rotate the engine untill you are on the comression stroke (Feel air out of the plug hole) then line up the timing marks on crankshaft pulley with the timing scale. Remove your distributer cap and check to see if the rotor is at the number one plug position. Rotating the engine will be tough with all the plugs installed. It is a lot easier to rotate with all plugs removed. If your time is 8 degrees before TDC, stop the rotation at the 8 degree mark on the timing scale and then remove the cap. The rotor should be pointing right at the number one plug. A ratchet and a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt is how you rotat the engine.

 

Thanks for the help and info again. I will try the timing thing today and let you know how it turns out.

Yesterday though, while turning it over trying to get it to start, I decided to try something that i havent done since i got my new Distributor rotor, cap, and spark plug wires which was just make sure that spark is getting to the spark plugs. I just took the wire off of the plug, stuck a screwdriver in it, and hold it while my buddy turns the engine over. didn't feel anything on any wire. could be actual distributor be bad?

 

Have you checked that spark is getting both to and from the coil?

 

Yes the distibuter could go bad. Mine did. To check for spark remove a plug, attach the plug wire, ground the plug elctrode to the engine block (away from the plug hole) If you have a garage or some where you can make it kind of dark crank the engine briefly and check for spark at the plug. You will be able to see the arc. Note: You do not want arc near the plug hole because you do not want to ignite the fuel. If you have a spare plug you could just attach a plug wire and ground the electrode and not have to worry about igniting fuel outside of the cylinder. You need someone to crank while you observe the plug gap for spark.