My son just bought this 94 as his first car and we are having many of the symptoms indicative of a bad FPR. I've also read several posts on the FPR and the spider assembly. I have the upper plenum off and it looks like one unit. I also saw multiple posts about the "clean" right side- indicating a bad FPR and pooling of gas but the right side looks about the same - no carbon buildup. Should I replace it all or if possible just the FPR.

Thanks

 

A photo would be nice if you can put one up, Ive never seen it clean in these before. It will be 100% black in there with no leaks, any gold spots and you have a leak. If there is no carbon build up at all then you might want to strap on your pressure guage and turn the key and see where its all getting washed away from. With no black stuff I would think you could visually see the gas spraying allover. Maybe pull the 6 spider legs up out of the holes before you turn the key, thats where my major leak was coming from, if they hold pressure then im sure the unit itself is OK. Would be nice to know what your fuel pressure is doing. Make sure you search the forums for a link thats out there a few times on a place to order a new spider unit for less than $300. Dealers and parts places want anywhere between 600-880 around my neck of the woods for it.

Make sure you see that the injector connection with the blue and red wires is nice and tight, if loose or the runner grommet that holds it there is eroded, then replace that too while you are in there.

The FPR will come off the side if you undo the 2 little torx bits that hold it there and pull it out of the bore that it sits in while you hold the spider unit as steady as you can it doesnt like being distrubed. Its the little battery looking thing on the passenger side. USE A MAGNETIC SCREWDRIVER to get the screws so you cant drop them into the engine, or put some rags down before you go popping it off.

 

You can get an exchange unit for about $180.00 for that year. I was going to go for it but ended up just replacing the FPR and it fixed my problem. You might want to check this out.
http://www.injectorwhse.com/servlet/...ion/Categories
Or maybe someone knows of someplace cheaper. A junkyard will be for sure but it's a crapshoot wheather they leak or not even if they're guarenteed you still have to go through the hassle of tearing it apart again. To me it's not worth it. If you're in there already take a look at your "nut kit"fuel lines and see if they look OK.

 

So I replaced the spider and the nut kit, still runs rough, SES light is on and seems to be running real hot after only a few minutes. No more gas smell in exhaust but a lot of sulpher. Any more thoughts would be appreciated.

 

What are the codes?

 

Haven't had the reader on it yet but as soon as I got it back together it ran fine until it warmed up. That's when the light came on and started running rough again. From what I've read it could be a blockage in the fuel return or the exhaust.

 

you dont need a reader, just use a paperclip to jump the OBD1 port, there is instrustions on here, I think its A to H for engine codes, and A to B for ABS codes... Then you count the blinks on the SES light.

 

It could be a bad cat especially if you are smelling sulfur but it could also be a bad temp sensor having a inaccurate reading. If you suspect a fuel return problem put a fuel gauge on it your fuel pressure will be higher than normal (55psi to 60) if you have a return problem. You need to scan it before you can ask any question because the codes tell you a thousand words.

 

OK so I jumpered the OBD (A to B) and got the following codes:
22- TPS 32 - EGR 34 - MAF ?(didn't think it had one) 45 - Rich Exhaust

I also felt a small amount of gas around the fuel return fitting at the nut kit.
Guess I need to get a fuel pressure gauge on it

 

22 - TP Sensor Circuit Low
32 - EGR Error
34 - MAP Sensor Circuit Low (low voltage = high vacuum).

All of these codes have one thing in common. All of the sensors are powered by the 5V reference from the ECU. The TPS and EGR valve use the same circuit from the ECU, but a problem with one of them can cause a drop in reference voltage causing bad readings. I would check for +5V on the gray wires at each sensor. Try disconnecting all of these three sensors and check for voltage. Then connect them individually and check again. The key must be on for the +5V to be supplied to the sensors.