Could be the Injector harness, it connects at the top of the CPI "spyder" with 2 wires(1 is blue and the other is red) running out the front of the plenum on the drivers side. Sometimes the rubber bushing in the connection gets all mushy from the gas and doesn't give a good connection. Try starting the truck and see if you wiggle theses wires if the truck stalls. If it does you know what it is now. The part is cheap, about 8-10 bucks.

I'm surprised OHSOFLY didnt suggest this to you earlier, he has had terrible luck with this part.

 

One other thing that I am surprised no one else has yet mentioned... you have good pressure with the key on but after key off does the pressure bleed back down? if so this is an indicator of another internal fuel issue.

 

Yeah i would have for sure, but I been a busy man this weekend. I think I made the fix though with the ORings. OP do a search on this, I recently posted some photos of my 'fix' for the floppy injector harness. Working great for me so far.

 

Yeah ive done the wiggle test for the injector harness and it passes that part and rubbers still firm and non mushy lol

And as for the pressure outsyder it goes bleed down slowly
I havent clocked it or anything but i know it drops down
I heard if you have a bad check valve on the pump it will drop pretty fast but idk pretty sure on it not being the pump

 

Have you pulled the flex hose off the throttle body and put in a few tablespoons of fuel to see if your problem is fuel ?
2 non-lit propane torches will provide about enough fuel to partially run it at idle.
be sure to reinstall the flex hose/air filter assy to minimize fire hazard.

I don't think the CPI unit is at fault here as you have a No-Start issue, however RockAuto has a "GB REMANUFACTURING Part # 83322101" for about $150 after core.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1164697

You may consider pulling the plenum top back off and checking for leaking internal fuel lines, turn the switch ON [not start] and look mainly at the rear of the drivers side for fuel spraying.
I don't know if the fuel pressure test shows before or after the FPR !!
Anyone know ???
Also look for leaks at the O-Rings at the spyder assy.


The EGR will cause a stumble at idle if it is held open with carbon, this also may cause surging while driving. Little or no effect at WOT !
Stuck Open EGR will not cause a No-Start !

Have you checked the spark at the Plug end ?
Get an old plug, or use a no.2 phillips screwdriver and check for a 1/2" "Blue" spark with no orange *****. "
I had a similar problem which was rust inside the distributor cap
[coil terminal] which would run intermittently.
I cleaned it with muriatic acid, dried and applied silicone grease.

I would suspect the module, if the issue happened when hot.
Though they can be finicky.
Pull it out and look at the wiring making sure that no insulation is worn off causing a short inside the dist.

Check the carbon tip on the dist cap where it contacts the rotor.

The rotor button can crack giving fits especially in wet/humid weather.

Look in the cap for water spots or carbon spattering. This can cause tracking and misfire[though don't sound like your problem]

Ohm the plug wires, a cheapo from Harbor Freight can be had for $5 or less.
GM service manual specs plug wire ohms at;
12,000-15,000 ohms per ft with a 30,000 ohm max
I use old plug wires from junk yards, cleaned with brake cleaner, wipe down with silicone grease.

My 94 S15 4x4 "fluttered" for 25~ miles and quit, no battery juice.
The main wire to power these does not come from the starter like most but instead comes from the back of the alternator.
The lug is made of super thin metal, like .012" . It goes straight to the battery. I installed [read silver soldered] a industrial lug on mine.

As a general rule of thumb, check all of your grounds, both chassis and block as well as the connection by the battery.
Sometimes corrosion is hidden or indicated by a white powder dusting, scrape and use C5-A anti-seize or Thomas & Betts copper compound, or use grease if that's all you have.

PS
From your previous posts, I see you're well versed in "using what you have"
I like the JB Weld fix and some others you've done.

JB Weld, Epoxy and Fiberglass Resin are all water and Fuel resistant.

For Worn Hubs at the Bearing Race seat, Loctite makes 3 different products which will take up clearance .001-.005" , up to .015" and up to .045" Loctite 404
These can be speed cured in your oven at 200F for 20-30 min, check your product data sheet.

Will attempt to keep up with your progress

Doc

 

The test port is between the pump/filter & the FPR so it shows line pressure to the injectors. It really wouldn't be of any help at all if it were after the FPR on the return (vent) line to the tank.

 

have you looked at the cat.conv.when mine got cloged it through those codes

 

changed the CPI spider
272.xx at auto zone and is back and running again.

 

So im not sure I changed the CPI and its been drivable and running but it seems to lack power :/
I filled her all the way up after i changed the CPI then drove about 160 and when I filled up again only gettin 13.5 mpg also
Anyone got some ideas on this one?
im also curiose if anyone knows if theres a specific order that each poppet nozzle goes into
Nothing in my haynes about each one belonging to a specific cylinder and my unit had 0 instrustions with it.

 

WELL I dare say it once agian its up and running good(knock on wood)
found out on another post theres now order for the poppets just put em in how they fit so solved that part of my question
I pulled off the cheap universal cat convert that was welded inplace and found It was in peices as suggested by a few people and found the comb was clogged and plugged along with lots of pieces broken off like little rocks
found the muffler had some nice leaks along with the tail pipe after muffler so spent 81 bucks on new muffler(cheap sound solution brand for 27.XX) some piping and clamps/hangers
Used the after muffler tail pipe off my wrecked 91 2 door
Its a little bit short right now but works
Gotta add 6 or so inches of 2" pipe after muffler and itl be good as new I think
Runs nice when its able to breath
Good thing theres no emisions tests down in FL :]