Hey Fellas, Lately I been using my A/C with the temps being in the 90's. I have noticed that whatever setting I have it set to Max, Normal or Bi-Level. It doesnt blow all that cold. Its cool, but very weak. Also the compressor sounds like its working its a$$ off, its loud. Its probably still charged with the old R-12. So I was wondering can I get that conversion kit that they sell at Autozone and charge it up myself with new R-134? Do I have to get a new compressor for the new stuff?

Also, is the air supposed to blow out the dash vents? Mine only comes out the defrost vent and on the floor.

Thanks

 

i just added more refigant to my a/c system and it blew out colder

 

ok, but I think I need to convert over to R-134 first, to "just add more".

 

Nope, just get one of those kits, hook up the hose it comes with, hook up a can, start the car with the AC on full, turn can upside down and open the valve. Then shake the can till you feel its empty, close valve, add another can. Get the kit with the gauge on it. Also watch a couple youtube vids first.

 

ok thanks. Adding the new stuff to whatever old is in there is OK? I'll get 2 cans this weekend and I'll let you guys know.

What about the air coming out the dash vents? Should I have air coming from there or No? I just feel it coming from the Defrost vent under the windshield and down by my feet.

 

Not sure about the vents. Two cans should be cool, and get the hose with the gauge, trust me. Watch the videos first. Yes its OK to add it to whats in there.

 

If you haven't put the 134a in yet, I would hold off. I did that last year, and it worked fine until about 3 months ago. The compressor seals gave way. I'm right in the middle of replacing the compressor, condenser, and accumulator to the tune of ~$500. Then I will have to have a shop flush the old oil out of the hoses and evaporator and refill the system (~$300). The r12 oil is NOT compatible with the new stuff and WILL cause damage over a reasonably short time.

My recommendation (if only I could back up time...): Take it to an A/C shop and have the flush and refill done. Then, atleast you'll only be out $300 instead of $800. Everyone that I know that has tried the home conversion has had problems within a year or two.

The decision is yours: spend ~$40 now, and $800 later, or bite the bullet and give up $300 now to save your old equipment.

...also, I had to disconnect the radiator to get the condenser off, so you can add the cost of a coolant refill, replacing lost oil (mine could use an oil change anyway), and replacing some lost tranny fluid. It turned out to be more work than I wanted to do, and I'm out almost $1000 with all the little stuff, but the good news is that the new condenser is designed with smaller pipes for (hopefully) more cooling ability.

Since I live in Arizona, I'm kicking myself for not going to Mexico to get some r12 last year. It beats the crap out of 134a for cooling ability any day of the week.

 

Do NOT add R134a to R12.

First, you don't have air blowing out the vents because you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Find and fix the vacuum leak, then see how your AC works.

If it's still weak, then you need to get a set of gauges on it to see what the pressures are. If you don't have the tools, take it to a shop that does auto AC work. If it is in fact low, they will have to recover the refrigerant, replace the o-rings with newer ones that are compatible with the R134a and the synthetic oil used with it, replace the low and high side fittings with the R134a ones, remove the dino oil from the system, put the synthetic oil in, put the system into a deep vacuum, then charge the system with the correct amount of R134a.

Fix the vent issue first. It might be the vacuum line that runs along the firewall. It might be the blend door on the heater core cover. It might be both...or more.

 

Yeah you don't want to add the R-134A to a system that still has R-12. The oil isn't cimpatible and you'll be better off draining the system and replacing the exoansion tube anyway. The seals need to be changed if you crack them loose. I always put a new receiver/drier on. They make a chemical flush kit to get as much of the R-12 oil out as posssible. I follow up with a good air compressor blow out until I get nothing but air. I agree you have aeither a vacuum leak or a bad actuator (probably the one that's a real bitch to change but of you get a hand held vacuum pump you can isolate which one (or ones) is/are bad. You should fix this first.
Did it to Fords, GMs and about to do it to my 84 Jimmy which I don't thing has any freon in it anymore anyway.
So first fix the vacuum, then drain and flush system, blow it out and if you can get ahold of a vacuum pump hook it up to get the moisture out. They're cheap from Harbor Freight. You can also check for leaks that way too. Should hold vacuum. Change all seals you disturbed with green or blue ones (AutoZone sells a whole bunch in a kit for about $5.00), add the right oil and charge it up(about 3 cans). Whole thing shouldn't run you $300.00 including parts and tools. Really a morning job.

 

Update, thanks for all the info about not adding r-134. I havent done it yet, some other issues came up that I had to take care of first.

About the vents not working due to a vacuum leak or actuator, can you guys give me a clue on a location to find theses parts in the truck. I know theres a vacuum tree behind the plenum on the passenger side. I know this becuase I had to replace that one tiny vacuum line from the Evap Canister to this tree. Is that it or is there another. Where is the actuator so I can check on that.

Am I able to drain and flush the system myself or I need to go to a shop to get that done? Do I have to replace the expansion tube and the drier?

Also, the compressor is loud when I turn it on. Is that a sign of it going bad or just low of freon?

Thanks