Front brake draging
1993 s10 blaser 4x4 with ABS.
My left front wheel was making a nosie ,Checking the brakes I noticed that the left brake was almost worn down to almost the steel pad while the right was better than half down.
I changed the left and right calipers with new brake disks.Blead each wheel and had good fluid flow.
After driving the car I noticed a smell and that my left wheel in hot .The brake was dragging
What would cause the left brake to drag .The car does not pull to the left when driving or stoping.
A Master cyc problem or ABS ??
Thanks Guys for the help
My left front wheel was making a nosie ,Checking the brakes I noticed that the left brake was almost worn down to almost the steel pad while the right was better than half down.
I changed the left and right calipers with new brake disks.Blead each wheel and had good fluid flow.
After driving the car I noticed a smell and that my left wheel in hot .The brake was dragging
What would cause the left brake to drag .The car does not pull to the left when driving or stoping.
A Master cyc problem or ABS ??
Thanks Guys for the help
Yes, it is very possible that you have a swelled brake line. On older vehicles, the lines should always be checked thuroughly. When in doubt, replace it.
When you bled the lines, did you get good flow out of the bleeder? If not, then it is mostlikely a swelled soft line.
If you do end up replacing it, spray the connection to the hard line down with penetrating oil once a day for atleast a week before attempting to remove it. I have also had to use a map gas hand torch to heat and a watered down towel to quench these connections to break the rust loose. I would also recommend a set of liner wrenches to aid in the removal of these lines without rounding over the hex.
Also, did you clean and re-lubricate the slider pins? With pistons only on one side of the caliper, the caliper must slide side to side to maintain equal pressure on both pads.
When you bled the lines, did you get good flow out of the bleeder? If not, then it is mostlikely a swelled soft line.
If you do end up replacing it, spray the connection to the hard line down with penetrating oil once a day for atleast a week before attempting to remove it. I have also had to use a map gas hand torch to heat and a watered down towel to quench these connections to break the rust loose. I would also recommend a set of liner wrenches to aid in the removal of these lines without rounding over the hex.
Also, did you clean and re-lubricate the slider pins? With pistons only on one side of the caliper, the caliper must slide side to side to maintain equal pressure on both pads.
Thanks guys for your input, I checked the fuid in line and it looked ok.
I could not rotate the wheel so I removed the calerper and pushed in the plunger.Installed and the wheel turned.Applyed the brakes and then brake does not release .
Line comes from the master cly to ABS unit.Then to each wheel.
Could it be something in the ABS unit not allowing the fluid to return when the brakes are released.
I'm lost Guys
Thanks ; Bob
I could not rotate the wheel so I removed the calerper and pushed in the plunger.Installed and the wheel turned.Applyed the brakes and then brake does not release .
Line comes from the master cly to ABS unit.Then to each wheel.
Could it be something in the ABS unit not allowing the fluid to return when the brakes are released.
I'm lost Guys
Thanks ; Bob
Bob it is most likely the plungers in the caliper unit. They swell up and will not return to a clear position. pick up a loaded set of calipers at NAPA or Auto Zone and replace the old ones. a loaded set comes with pads. If you already have new pads then just get the caliper set. You can buy each side seperate.
I would think that it's the rubber flex hose that attatches to the caliper.
If you open the caliper bleeder screw then use a screwdriver to pry the brake pad to push the caliper piston back in to the caliper and the fluid comes out easily as the piston slides back into the caliper, then the caliper is ok and the problem is the flex hose.
The flex hose can collapse internally and you can not see this. The brakes will apply because you have a couple of thousand pounds of pressure pushing the fluid through, but as you only have a little rubber dust boot on the caliper piston to push the fluid back to the master cylinder, it's not enough pressure to overcome a collapsed flex hose = constant pressure on the brake pads.
If you open the caliper bleeder screw then use a screwdriver to pry the brake pad to push the caliper piston back in to the caliper and the fluid comes out easily as the piston slides back into the caliper, then the caliper is ok and the problem is the flex hose.
The flex hose can collapse internally and you can not see this. The brakes will apply because you have a couple of thousand pounds of pressure pushing the fluid through, but as you only have a little rubber dust boot on the caliper piston to push the fluid back to the master cylinder, it's not enough pressure to overcome a collapsed flex hose = constant pressure on the brake pads.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
spatula6554
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
12
Apr 10, 2012 02:17 PM
SCBlazer96
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
3
Apr 16, 2010 08:39 PM
xderkax
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
5
Jan 14, 2010 11:38 PM
Hoelgi
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
17
Oct 20, 2007 08:49 PM







