Fuel Filter Assistance
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 4

Hello!
I have a 1994 Blazer S10 with the 4.3L Vortec V6 and I have a real basic question. I have to change the fuel filter. What size wrench do I need for the fuel lines? Thanks!
George
I have a 1994 Blazer S10 with the 4.3L Vortec V6 and I have a real basic question. I have to change the fuel filter. What size wrench do I need for the fuel lines? Thanks!
George
#2
Beginning Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Shreveport, La until Sep 09 then Germany
Posts: 29

yes you need to if you never have and i cant remember what sizes, theres 2 different sizes though
#3
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 16

I just did mine and it was a real PITA!! I hope you fare better than I. I have a 1999 but I think the location and sizes are the same. Mine was rusted so bad on the line fitting that it broke and I had to replace the line. If yours looks rusted I advise spraying the threads liberally with WD-40 or some penetrating lube prior to removal. Mine used a 15mm and a 20mm wrench. I also advise to use a flare nut wrench if you have one on the fuel line fitting to prevent any rounding off of the nut. Good luck and I hope this helps!
Will
Will
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 4

Thanks!
It's along the frame rail, on the left rear. That where it is in your 99? I had it replaced once about two years ago at a garage so I'm hoping it's not rusted too badly. I was going to guess a 20mm for on the filter itself. And a 15mm on the fuel line sounds about right. When (if) I replace it, do I need to do anything special to prime the fuel line? My guess is to crank it for a few seconds, wait a minute or two, then crank it again, wait a minute or two, crank it, wait....until the air is finally purged out of the line. Well, I guess I'll go buy a fuel line wrench, a 20mm wrench and a good pair of vice grips!
It's along the frame rail, on the left rear. That where it is in your 99? I had it replaced once about two years ago at a garage so I'm hoping it's not rusted too badly. I was going to guess a 20mm for on the filter itself. And a 15mm on the fuel line sounds about right. When (if) I replace it, do I need to do anything special to prime the fuel line? My guess is to crank it for a few seconds, wait a minute or two, then crank it again, wait a minute or two, crank it, wait....until the air is finally purged out of the line. Well, I guess I'll go buy a fuel line wrench, a 20mm wrench and a good pair of vice grips!
#5
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location:
Posts: 142

Yorgos,
Here's a little tip for you. When you install the new filter, apply a small amount of anti-seize to all threads. You will save a ton of time and heartache latter on. My 98 blazer took two very small pipe wrenchs with pipe's attached to the handle's for leverage. It only took about 45 min to remove the old filter. Now I can change it in 10 min or less with the anti-seize on it....
Good Luck..........
Here's a little tip for you. When you install the new filter, apply a small amount of anti-seize to all threads. You will save a ton of time and heartache latter on. My 98 blazer took two very small pipe wrenchs with pipe's attached to the handle's for leverage. It only took about 45 min to remove the old filter. Now I can change it in 10 min or less with the anti-seize on it....
Good Luck..........
#6
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location:
Posts: 98

to respond to the "priming" question i wouldn't crank it over but turn the key forward to the run position for a few seconds. you should be able to hear the fuel pump kick in and prome it for you in one shot but keying off and returning the key the run position again to see if fuel pump re-primes isn't a bad idea.
#7
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 16

That's where mine is. The anti-sieze someone else mentioned sounds like a good idea. On my vehicle I relieved fuel pressure via the service port on the manifold's fuel rail. Good luck!
Will
Will
#8
BF Veteran
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,891











ORIGINAL: dobbist
to respond to the "priming" question i wouldn't crank it over but turn the key forward to the run position for a few seconds. you should be able to hear the fuel pump kick in and prome it for you in one shot but keying off and returning the key the run position again to see if fuel pump re-primes isn't a bad idea.
to respond to the "priming" question i wouldn't crank it over but turn the key forward to the run position for a few seconds. you should be able to hear the fuel pump kick in and prome it for you in one shot but keying off and returning the key the run position again to see if fuel pump re-primes isn't a bad idea.
You'll have to do this about a 12 times before you actually try to start it. Teh fuel pump should turn on every time you turn the key.
Anti-sieze is a good idea, and I highly recommend flare wrenches.
If your fittings are too rusted and you twist the line, you can replace a portion of the line with new. Use compression fittings, and check with your local autoparts store for short pieces of line. Get teh same size fittings.
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