Fuel filter stuck - HELP!
#1
Fuel filter stuck - HELP!
My first time changing the fuel filter (the inline type) on my '94 4x4 S-10 Blazer. The fuel line from the tank to the filter loosens easily, but the one from the filter to the engine is stuck like it is welded on. I guess it's rust.
I've spent many hours (over several days) on this darn filter now, trying many things with no luck:
- Brute force
- WD-40
- More brute force
- Hammer
- More WD-40
- Heating with a hair dryer
- A lot of brute force
- Drilling and filing holes and gaps in the filter where the line threads in, trying to get WD-40 in there
- More brute force and hammering
- Drilling holes in the filter itself to get to the line from the inside with WD-40 and a hammer + screwdriver...
I really hoped the drilling and filing would work. I have definitely got WD-40 in there, but I probably can't get it all around the line/nut since I can only get to the front part with the drill/file (otherwise I would need to twist the line & filter).
Any ideas are welcome. It's currently soaking in WD-40 overnight (again), after I got another hole in the filter nut for oil to get through. If this does not help, I'll consider using some rust-removing acid I have laying around. It's not penetrating, though, so that's a shot in the dark, really.
If it never comes loose, how much work is it to replace the entire line? Or a section of it?
I've spent many hours (over several days) on this darn filter now, trying many things with no luck:
- Brute force
- WD-40
- More brute force
- Hammer
- More WD-40
- Heating with a hair dryer
- A lot of brute force
- Drilling and filing holes and gaps in the filter where the line threads in, trying to get WD-40 in there
- More brute force and hammering
- Drilling holes in the filter itself to get to the line from the inside with WD-40 and a hammer + screwdriver...
I really hoped the drilling and filing would work. I have definitely got WD-40 in there, but I probably can't get it all around the line/nut since I can only get to the front part with the drill/file (otherwise I would need to twist the line & filter).
Any ideas are welcome. It's currently soaking in WD-40 overnight (again), after I got another hole in the filter nut for oil to get through. If this does not help, I'll consider using some rust-removing acid I have laying around. It's not penetrating, though, so that's a shot in the dark, really.
If it never comes loose, how much work is it to replace the entire line? Or a section of it?
#2
First place.. WD 40 sux to loosen rusty and corroded threaded fasteners. It's an all purpose product and on rust, like trying to wash clothes with windex and water.
PBlaster is the accepted penetrant and works really well .. like 10x better.*
THEN.. take vise grips and firmly squeeze - Not quite to mash point - every side of frozen nut you can get to. The combination of GOOD penetrant and breaking that rusty bond usually works.
Look at Rockauto for your year and check for repair part
It's just me, but if I ever run across this problem I'm gonna either install Ford line repair parts and use the Ford filter.. or in case of steel lines both sides, high pressure fuel tubing, gear clamps and ford filter. Why fight it every change when the fix is easy.
* just realized the difference between the two. WD-40 DOES penetrate. Then it just sits there.. LOL.
PBlaster is the accepted penetrant and works really well .. like 10x better.*
THEN.. take vise grips and firmly squeeze - Not quite to mash point - every side of frozen nut you can get to. The combination of GOOD penetrant and breaking that rusty bond usually works.
Look at Rockauto for your year and check for repair part
It's just me, but if I ever run across this problem I'm gonna either install Ford line repair parts and use the Ford filter.. or in case of steel lines both sides, high pressure fuel tubing, gear clamps and ford filter. Why fight it every change when the fix is easy.
* just realized the difference between the two. WD-40 DOES penetrate. Then it just sits there.. LOL.
Last edited by pettyfog; 04-07-2012 at 03:33 PM.
#3
PBlaster, eh? Gotta see if I can find someone that sells that locally. So you mean vice grips on the filter itself then? To squeeze it loose? Haven't tried that.
#4
No.. on rusted/corroded/stuck nuts on threads. Deforming the nut or coupling a little breaks the oxidized bond. It will still be hard to turn because of the crud, but will start to turn more easily.
A few thousands movement wont warp, because the metal is elastic to some extent.
#5
Haven't seen PBlaster for sale around here, but I haven't looked too hard. Might be able to find it online.
Well, since the filter has a "built in nut" (the fuel line threads into the filter), I suppose that means deforming the filter.
See image from some website:
Well, since the filter has a "built in nut" (the fuel line threads into the filter), I suppose that means deforming the filter.
See image from some website:
#6
Well, since the filter has a "built in nut" (the fuel line threads into the filter), I suppose that means deforming the filter.
The filter fitting will be temporarily deformed and will rebound in case you wished to reuse it.
The filter itself will not be deformed at all. Temp or permanent.
I guess that's splitting hairs but there's a difference.
#7
Found an online store that sold it, should arrive in the mail in a few days
I think we are talking about the same thing - vice grips on the nut on the filter, right? (Not on the nut on the fuel line).
After all the drilling and hammering I've done on this nut already I'm not sure if the extra squeezing will help, but I'll give it a shot.
I think we are talking about the same thing - vice grips on the nut on the filter, right? (Not on the nut on the fuel line).
After all the drilling and hammering I've done on this nut already I'm not sure if the extra squeezing will help, but I'll give it a shot.
#8
Tried again now, no luck.
Fuel line nut is now completely stripped, so I'm using vice grips on it. Still waiting for PB Blaster, and starting to look for a replacement line. Rather p***ed off.
EDIT: Which of these parts should I use?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1077790
Is this one from filter to tank only? Confusing part text.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=622474
This is much cheaper, but only a repair kit. Having never repaired a fuel line before I'm not sure if that's a good idea... Difficult job?
Fuel line nut is now completely stripped, so I'm using vice grips on it. Still waiting for PB Blaster, and starting to look for a replacement line. Rather p***ed off.
EDIT: Which of these parts should I use?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1077790
Includes fuel filter, supply & return line, and matching flex hoses to attach supply & return lines to the sending unit.
"Fuel Filter Included (Line From Filter Back To Tank); Rear; 4 door"
"Fuel Filter Included (Line From Filter Back To Tank); Rear; 4 door"
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=622474
Steel Fuel Line Repair Kit
"Includes Seals and Gaskets Needed for Installation; Inlet & Outlet; Steel Line Gasket - 3/8" x M16-1.50"
"Includes Seals and Gaskets Needed for Installation; Inlet & Outlet; Steel Line Gasket - 3/8" x M16-1.50"
Last edited by Oystein; 04-08-2012 at 08:24 AM.
#9
Tried again now, no luck.
Fuel line nut is now completely stripped, so I'm using vice grips on it. Still waiting for PB Blaster, and starting to look for a replacement line. Rather p***ed off.
EDIT: Which of these parts should I use?
More Information for FINELINE FL441B
Is this one from filter to tank only? Confusing part text.
Fuel line nut is now completely stripped, so I'm using vice grips on it. Still waiting for PB Blaster, and starting to look for a replacement line. Rather p***ed off.
EDIT: Which of these parts should I use?
More Information for FINELINE FL441B
Is this one from filter to tank only? Confusing part text.
More Information for DORMAN 55180
This is much cheaper, but only a repair kit. Having never repaired a fuel line before I'm not sure if that's a good idea... Difficult job?
But it you are going to do that, why not just use a Ford style filter for a Volvo xc 90 4.4. It has quick connect nipples both ends.
Comline Auto Parts - Volvo XC 90 Fuel Filters
Which obviously will take rubber lines.
Select fuel line inner diameter to fit the smaller of the filter and line od's
And you'll never have that problem again.
#10
Thanks for the help, I'll do some research and see what I come up with