Help PLease 85 carb
#1
Help PLease 85 carb
Hi all, i have been trying to figure this out for sometime now to no avail. I need someone with some experience with these old carbs.
I have an 85 s10 blazer 4x4 2.8L (calif). that i now have to drive daily for the time being.
It runs fine except when i accelerate quickly or just romp on it. At that point it just stammers,studders or flat falls on its face?
Being a california emissions motor in oklahoma of course vacuum lines have been altered. I don't think it is electrical cause all that has been replaced and the same problem exists. I could go on driving it the way it is but it keeps me up at night,ha.
So i think it is the carb, when i romp on it i do smell fuel. This thing sat in a field for 5 years, could a diaphragm have anything to do with it? Maybe the float? I don't know. Short of having a rebuilt carb on it and the money that goes with it, i don't want to do if it might be something else. All suggestions are appreciated. Can i replace some stuff that might be the culprit from the top of the carb?? I don't want to take the damn thing off. Does anyone have pics of that carb showing the vacuum line sequence? I am not good with schematics and half of that stuff is gone now anyhow... Thank you for your time.. Puzzled in Oklahoma .
I have an 85 s10 blazer 4x4 2.8L (calif). that i now have to drive daily for the time being.
It runs fine except when i accelerate quickly or just romp on it. At that point it just stammers,studders or flat falls on its face?
Being a california emissions motor in oklahoma of course vacuum lines have been altered. I don't think it is electrical cause all that has been replaced and the same problem exists. I could go on driving it the way it is but it keeps me up at night,ha.
So i think it is the carb, when i romp on it i do smell fuel. This thing sat in a field for 5 years, could a diaphragm have anything to do with it? Maybe the float? I don't know. Short of having a rebuilt carb on it and the money that goes with it, i don't want to do if it might be something else. All suggestions are appreciated. Can i replace some stuff that might be the culprit from the top of the carb?? I don't want to take the damn thing off. Does anyone have pics of that carb showing the vacuum line sequence? I am not good with schematics and half of that stuff is gone now anyhow... Thank you for your time.. Puzzled in Oklahoma .
#2
You should have a vacuum line duagram on your upper radiator shroud. My 84 Jimmy still has the one it came with. A Chilton manual has a pretty good selection of vacuum diagrams in it if yours is gone. As far as the carb is concerned they really aren't that difficult. You can get a carb kit from your local auto parts store and do a pretty decent job on your own. LMC Truck also sells kits for these things. Sounds like your carb is pretty gummed up and some parts are probably cracked and rotten. Going through it wouldn't be a bad idea. That carb has 4 bolts and some vacuum lines and an electrical connection or 2 and it comes right off. Do not fear the carburetor. The California model is different than the 49 States version. You should have a E2SE with an ECM for that carb.
#3
Carbs usually have an accelerator pump built in to the carb. When you hit the gas pedal it squirts extra fuel in. If it is faulty you will bog down. If the float level is set to low you could also bog down. If the float level is to high you could have extra fuel overflowing into the carb. I would get a carb kit and rebuild it. It is not very difficult and you get all new gaskets, inlet needle valve, accelorator pump and the instruction sheet will give you the specs for float height and choke settings. The accelerator pump is just like a small bicycle pump. It has a shaft and a rubber seal. It is usually on top of the carb with a lingage attached to it. You should be able to remove the air cleaner and work the throttle at the carb and you should be able to see fuel squirt in. Hope this helps. You should be able to remove the carb and rebuild it within 2 to 3 hours at the most. Just don't lose any retaining clips. At the fuel inlet use a flare nut wrench or you can strip the nut on the fuel line if you are not carefull. For vacuum lines use a small flat blade screwdriver to pry the lines off of the fittings. If you just yank on the lines chances are the lines will break. I would re-install any missing vacuum lines.
#4
Something you can check is see if your secondary lock is opening. It works somewhat with the choke when it warms up I think its on the back passenger side. I had that problem with every 2.8 I ever owned. I just zip tie it open
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28, 85, accelerating, carb, carburetor, chevy, e2se, ecm, face, falling, remove, s10, schematic, secondaries, stuck