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how do you change the spider, what's needed?

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  #11  
Old 08-08-2010, 06:34 PM
seanpconley's Avatar
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I just did this job three times already once for me twice for friends let me know what you need and I will help u. The nut kit requires a torx bit # 35 (I think) just measure it at autozone when you get the new kit because in the box u will have the two new lines and one new holding plate with that screw your going to have to remove from the back....... you have to get after it blind everything else to get the plenum off is a number 10 socket pretty easy if u don't rush it..... a little advice is if you want the new lines to go in easier get some vasoline they will then slide right in
 
  #12  
Old 08-22-2010, 03:21 AM
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first of all, I want to thank everyone for their input. I feel that I had a great grasp on what to do to fix this problem. Instead of doing this repair the correct way and buy a rebuilt "spider" due to the fact that my girlfriend has basically no income, I got one from a "pull-a-part" for less than $5.00. I did see that it had a wash from a bad FPR, so I ordered that and the "nut kit" from Rock Auto for less than $90.00. With a new plenum gasket I proceed to install the parts today. When I was done there is some changes, it now will attempt to start, but it will not stay running. I now have a error code of 15 (OBD1) telling me the coolant temp sensor is bad. This actually makes sense because when I checked the fuel pressure I had a friend come over with his gauge and when I was getting a flashlight for him, he disconnected the coolant temp sensor. He found it didn't make a difference (since the fuel injector was later found to be open). He said he was having trouble reconnecting the sensor wire plug. He messed with it for a while, and I thought he got it reconnected before he left. Apparently not, but I couldn't see the sensor or a disconnected plug any where. I think I found somewhere in my web searches tonight that it's near the thermostat housing. I will look again tomorrow. Is this sensor capable of making this engine not stay running? I read it can mess with the timing and fuel/air ratio. And finally the last new thing it there is a loud "tink" sound comming from the MTV, under the Vortec emblem, when you turn on the key and it does it again when the key is turned off. I never heard this before, is it normal? If i disconnect the wire connection it the noise goes away, and I never have removed it from the plenum.
I realize there is a chance the used spider may be bad and maybe one or more of the poppets could be just dripping gas inside causing my problem, but at least there's gas getting to the spark plugs.
 
  #13  
Old 08-22-2010, 09:44 PM
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If you want to save some money, forget about the ''nut kit'' and just cut your old fuel lines off and go to a parts store and get some FUEL INJECTION hose and 3 or 4 mini hose clamps. Then carefully measure your old lines and cut your new hose to match. Then lube your fittings and slide your new hoses in place. You will need to put clamps on both ends of the pressure line, or it will pop off. I also put a clamp on the back of the return line. I couldn`t get a clamp on the front of the return line because there wasn`t enough room. I did mine this way about 4 years/ 50,000 miles ago and it works great.
 
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