I urently need help, I am STUCK with Crank No Start
#1
I urently need help, I am STUCK with Crank No Start
I am STUCK with Crank No Start.
Starting fluid did not do anything and I believe the fuel system to be working.
I appear to have spark:
And it is CRANK NO START:
I have been stranded a week.
I just messed with timing but I don't know what I am doing there.
Ideas? next? I NEED HELP!!
Starting fluid did not do anything and I believe the fuel system to be working.
I appear to have spark:
And it is CRANK NO START:
I have been stranded a week.
I just messed with timing but I don't know what I am doing there.
Ideas? next? I NEED HELP!!
#2
you have spark from the coil, but is it coming down to the plugs? Common wear point is the rotor under the cap. Check it out and see what it looks like. Also a fuel pressure test would be great if you could do it.
#4
I have a spare coil sitting here next to me, wish i could throw it to ya. Lol... It doesnt look healthy but I would assume it would still run, poorly but run. Or at least hit once or twice. I had to go see what color mine was, lol. I've never payed close enough attention.
Last edited by AndrewO1991; 05-01-2013 at 08:11 AM.
#5
please dont be mad at me, but a few suggestions.
first off, turn the key on and wait for the fuel pump to catch up. it will quit running when it has reached the proper pressure. then try and crank it.
2. dont crank it that long or you WILL be putting a starter in it. they get very hot when you make them work for that long.
3. check your cap and rotor. you may have "good" spark at the cap, but if it cant travel down the cap, and through the rotor, back to the cap and out, then it does no good. pull the cap off and check to see if the terminals for the wires are all blasted to junk and missing pieces. if the end of the rotor has a fur ball on the end, change both.
4. i would also change the fuel filter. cheap and easy, just one more thing off the list.
5. since you messed with the timing, you need to reset it. this can be done at the same time you are inspecting and/or changing the cap and rotor. you need to roll the motor over to top dead center. chase the wire from the #1 cylinder back to the cap. pull the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. if its not pointing at where #1 would be, roll the motor over one revolution. when you get the rotor close to where it should be (pointing at #1 on the cap) you can adjust the distributor and get everything all lined up. this might take a few minutes and a few times of the cap on and off to make sure that you have it close.
try and start it only after you have reset the timing. if it ran before and its not now, and then you played with the timing, i would just start all over again. there is no point to burning up your starter if you have no idea where you stand. please keep us posted.
EDIT: the pop you are hearing is because the timing is too far out. back to the regular post....
i only said please dont be mad at me because i knew that this would come off kind of nagging like. i just hate to see people spend money on things that they dont have to when they arent broke. i.e., your starter.
first off, turn the key on and wait for the fuel pump to catch up. it will quit running when it has reached the proper pressure. then try and crank it.
2. dont crank it that long or you WILL be putting a starter in it. they get very hot when you make them work for that long.
3. check your cap and rotor. you may have "good" spark at the cap, but if it cant travel down the cap, and through the rotor, back to the cap and out, then it does no good. pull the cap off and check to see if the terminals for the wires are all blasted to junk and missing pieces. if the end of the rotor has a fur ball on the end, change both.
4. i would also change the fuel filter. cheap and easy, just one more thing off the list.
5. since you messed with the timing, you need to reset it. this can be done at the same time you are inspecting and/or changing the cap and rotor. you need to roll the motor over to top dead center. chase the wire from the #1 cylinder back to the cap. pull the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. if its not pointing at where #1 would be, roll the motor over one revolution. when you get the rotor close to where it should be (pointing at #1 on the cap) you can adjust the distributor and get everything all lined up. this might take a few minutes and a few times of the cap on and off to make sure that you have it close.
try and start it only after you have reset the timing. if it ran before and its not now, and then you played with the timing, i would just start all over again. there is no point to burning up your starter if you have no idea where you stand. please keep us posted.
EDIT: the pop you are hearing is because the timing is too far out. back to the regular post....
i only said please dont be mad at me because i knew that this would come off kind of nagging like. i just hate to see people spend money on things that they dont have to when they arent broke. i.e., your starter.
#6
thank you all so much! Please, what tool do I need to change the fuel filter? I see where it is and it does look straightforward. I also think that, at $20, a new coil could be well on there.. I also heard "you want fat, blue spark" so. I do not have that. I have thin orange on a beat up thing..
I asked the mechanic to try to re-time it, since I put the timing so far off its crazy.
I asked the mechanic to try to re-time it, since I put the timing so far off its crazy.
#9
OK Captain Hook, thanks for your suggestion on doing the test with the test light hooked to the prime terminal in the fuse Block..and turning the key on and off....Here are my results,,,by the way, I think we are on to something directly related to my start problems with the 2000 GMC Jimmy
When I do the test with the test light hooked to prime terminal on the fuse block,,and turn the key on and off several times,,maybe 6 or 7 or so,,half the time the light will come on and the other half it won't...I believe I noticed that if you wait long enough,,and try it agan,,the light will come on most of time, but not every time....I can hear the fuel pump coming on when the light does light up, when it doesn't, I don't hear the pump running...when the light is not on. So.....I believe this is my problem, but as to why, ,I don't know,,,am sure you know the answer to that, (hope so),,,could it be the BCM/VCM, under the dash? The pump will run for about 3 seconds, then cut off,,I believe this is what it is supposed to do.
LIke I have said before,,when it gets into the no start condition,,the fuel pressure only reads arouind 42 psi,,otherwise when it does OK, the pressure is around 58 or so. when engine running is 55 or 56.
Waiting your reply,
-Kess
Thanks for your help....believe we close to finding the culprit here.
-kess
When I do the test with the test light hooked to prime terminal on the fuse block,,and turn the key on and off several times,,maybe 6 or 7 or so,,half the time the light will come on and the other half it won't...I believe I noticed that if you wait long enough,,and try it agan,,the light will come on most of time, but not every time....I can hear the fuel pump coming on when the light does light up, when it doesn't, I don't hear the pump running...when the light is not on. So.....I believe this is my problem, but as to why, ,I don't know,,,am sure you know the answer to that, (hope so),,,could it be the BCM/VCM, under the dash? The pump will run for about 3 seconds, then cut off,,I believe this is what it is supposed to do.
LIke I have said before,,when it gets into the no start condition,,the fuel pressure only reads arouind 42 psi,,otherwise when it does OK, the pressure is around 58 or so. when engine running is 55 or 56.
Waiting your reply,
-Kess
Thanks for your help....believe we close to finding the culprit here.
-kess