thank you guys. I am now 200% sure that the fuel pump is my problem. I just hope it can get me to work for another 2 weeks before I can afford one. it does have 253,000 miles on the original motor. So if it is the stock pump then I'm sure that is the issue.

 

To test the exhaust theory, remove the O2 sensor and take it for a spin. You may need to let it run for a bit to figure out that the O2 sensor is not there.

A fuel pressure gauge with a long enough hose can be connected to the test port and taped to the windshield. That would allow you to watch the fuel pressure during the condition.

Both fuel and exhaust flow rates are low while rev'ing in park. Under load, the demands are much greater!

 

Please remember, just because you have fuel pressure, that does not mean it has the proper fuel pressure to start & or run the engine.

One person advised me, as long as I've got fuel pressure, can push the stem in at the Schrader valve and fuel comes out, the pump is OK. That is totally untrue. Mine has to have at least 55 pounds of fuel pressure for it to start.

The only way to know is taking swartlkk advise, use a fuel pressure gage.

 

I replaced my fuel pump and its been starting just fine on these cold mornings. but I still notice a little bit of surging when accelerating. I think my home made fuel injection needs replaced. I do still have my egr blocked off but I thought that wouldn't cause any problems right? besides overheating maybe. gona take the plate out tomorrow, I did hit my distrubeter a few times when I was removing the nut kit. ( I striped the torx screw taking it out so it was quite a job getting it out). The fuel pump did help, and before I had it installed I did take out my oxygen sensor, it didnt make any improvements. I feel like I'm on the home stretch thought.

I have striped out a few of the bolt holes holding the plenum on from constantly removing it over the last month. I'm going to look more into vacuum leaks also. is there a way to test out if it is a leak causing poor performance? maybe stick something in the rear nipple sticking of the plenum?

 

Stripped bolts on the plenum won't help you at all, vacuum leak for sure. About the no power thing it could be the TPS, they are known to make you vehicle feel like it has lost power.

 

If you stripped out some bolt holes, you might ought to put in some Heli-Coils.

 

Thanks alot guys, I've almost got it back to normal, I do have a question though, It appears that the TPS was giving me problems because the surging went away after replacing. but my way of testing the power issue is, I will be stoped at a red light with nobody behind me, and when I try to power brake (ie hold down the gass and brake at the same time) it it won't spin, I did just put new back tires on it due to the snow. I just wanted to know if you think this is normal? with the worn tires I could light them up at red lights, I'm just not sure if its weak or if the tires are getting too much traction. I know this sounds stupid, I just want to know if its running right. thanks again!

 

You only put new tires on the rear? that can burn out a transfer case pretty quick.

 

Before trying the burn out, jump out with a gallon jug of water in your hands, pour half a gallon of water on each rear tire, jump back in, hold you brake down real hard, step one the gas pedal, release brakes.

Them the tires ought to spin real good, you might even wear them new back tires out real fast if you'll do it often enough.

I've not tried to squawk the tires on my 92 S10 4 X 4 4.3 W engine with automatic but once since I bought it new in 92, it did so by only pushing down quite far on the gas pedal from a standing start without holding down on the brakes.

 

after driving for a couple days I'm starting to think the TPS didn't do anything to help. the good news is that I finally got a service engine soon light so I'm going to get the codes right now, will post in a couple mins..

thanks again!