The quick and easy way to align your headlights---first, find a wall with a minimum of 10' of level ground in front of it. park the truck as close to the wall as possible and with the lights off sketch their outline --ie: you should have 2 oval patterns on the wall placed exactly where your lights would hit if you drove into the wall. Then back up the truck in a straight line approx. 10' back...then with a 4' level draw cross-hairs, 1 vertical and 1 horizontal in the exact center of each wall sketch. You now have 4 quadrants for each light, upper left, upper right, lower left and lower right. On low beams you want each light's 'footprint' to be in the lower right quadrant...just inside the lines...if you park too far from the wall the footprint gets harder to define, if the light istoo dispersed move a little closer. Having them point slightly down and to the right helps on-coming driver's and also gives you better illumination on the shoulder. After that the high-beams take care of themselves.

 

^ Any pics or post with pics to show you how to align your lights properly?

Thanks

 

For "proper" headlight adjustment, you need a 25' flat place.

I think at 25' it's supposed to be a 2" drop at the wall...

 

Search: CLICK HERE

 

The sun seldoms shines in Seattle. That is good for cars. Dash pad don't crack, paint stays like new and garages are not needed but itis difficult to get your tire to hook on the damppavement.Human beingsuse thetanning salons but mentaldepression is still high.

Headlights: I assume youadjusted the vertical and horizontal adjustment screws.

When ondim, theleftsealed beam on my 91 Blazer was pointing at the ground, about 15 feet in front of the vehicle. The sealed beam worked fine but had some moisture in it so I replaced it. I gavethe vertical adjustment a couple ofturns and hoped for the best. Theheadlight is now aimed perfect. I just guessed at the number of turns on the adjustment screw it and did not use a wall or fence to see where the headlightwas aimed.You can aim the headlightsit by the trial and error method as I did. I got it right on the first attempt.

 

People rarely get it right the first time though and end up blinding others on the road. The 25 foot distance to a wall and measuring/marking the wall with the light center lines (vertical and horizontal) works for pretty much any vehicle. You never want the center of the low beam high intensity zone above the level center line of the headlight.

 

Or else you'll be like almost every Dodge truck and won't be able to see anything while blinding everyone else

I can usually get mine bang on just eyeballing it... I usually make sure it's a touch down anyway... At least when I've got my HID Projectors in...

 

yeah.. just after i got it figured out some jackass backed into my truck... now my whole light assembely is screwed on the passenger side. so i gotta get it replaced anyway. the light still works but i cant screw it in anymore. it just kinda flops around in the housing anytime i hit a bump. as soon as i can ill make a junk yard run but at the moment the headlight is the least of my worries. i think i have some kind of exhaust problem now... and my computer wont scan its codes. arrrrrgggghhhh.
-Wes-

 

thanks for the link.

i understand the concept how to do with close of a wall, makes mark, back up and adjust. ( i did on my mustang)
but i only see 4 screw. those screw are only just holding the headlights on place or its for adjustemnt too?

BTW any link on ebay for a H4 conversion for a descent price and shipping to Canada?

thanks!

 

You should not be able to see any screws other than the adjustment screws while the grill is on...

If it's a 1st gen, they should be a torx bit... Same size that's used for taking the dash off... Which I believe is a T-15... It's been over a year since I had my '85, lol.

The screws that hold the headlight in should be phillips head.